Lesbos is generally a good destination for naturists with many lovely beaches and, it seems, a tolerant attitude towards nudity. Some of the naturists are locals. Few of the beaches have that typical 'white' Aegean look, because the island is volcanic making the beach sand and stones somewhat darker in colour. Nevertheless, most of the beaches have their attractions and many are wonderful.
Molyvos/Methymna
Molyvos (more often known locally as Methymna) is the second largest town on Lesbos - after the capital Mytilene - and a very beautiful one at that. Touristy and international it may be, but it's also very tasteful. There is plenty of all types of accommodation.
And as you can see, Captain Barefoot is already well established here with his own speedboat to take him out to the local beaches. Before you ask, though, sadly, it's no relation!
There is just one beach at Molyvos which sweeps south of the town in a wide arc for about 2 km ending at a headland. Close to the town this is narrow, stony and generally an unattractive beach. For the last few hundred yards, furthest away from the town, however, the beach widens, becomes predominately sandy and very attractive. This last section is the (unofficial) naturist area. The sea all around the area is calm, crystal clear and ideal for swimming and snorkelling. There is a stunning view of the town from here and olive trees and hillsides behind the beach.
Reports from June, September and October 2005 and September and October 2006 say that this beach is still 90% nudist. Several reports from early June 2007 say there are now sunbeds and umbrellas, but it does not seem to have spoiled the nature of the beach. A correspondent who was there in June 2005 described it as "one of the most comfortable naturist beaches I have been on (no weirdos), with an average of 20 couples a day of mixed nationalities and a very nice and friendly atmosphere." Another bonus are the trees at the back of the beach which give some welcome shade in the fiercest heat of the day. All reports seem to rate this beach highly.
The beach can be reached in two main ways:
1 Walk along the beach from where it starts at the southern end of the town. This can be rather a trek, walking on a rough surface, particularly when it's hot.
2 Walk (or drive) out of the town following the main road towards Petra. Pass the bus stop, taxi rank and tourist office and continue where the road forms a brief section of "dual carriageway" as it bridges a stream bed. Look for the entrance to the Hotel Delphinia, which is on the road to Petra on the right hand side about 1 km from town. Go through the main entrance of hotel Delphinia. Turn left directly and after about 25 yards you will find the sign with beach, taverna, swimming pool and a few more. There you turn half right downhill and after 300 yards there is parking (even under trees) and at the end after another 25 yards (before you have to turn left or right) there is a sign "to the beach" with three yellow dots. Follow the sign to the left and after 100 yards you find the first yellow gate and on every tree on the right side you find a yellow dot. After 250 yards you are at the second yellow gate and now you are at the beach.
Barefooters confirmed the above in May 2007. The beach was clean and not very crowded, between 4 and 16 people maximum. No problems with textiles, both types of visitors tolerating each other. Mainly German and Scandinavian visitors; my contributors were the only Brits. However on days when the wind was prevailing off shore beach grit was a problem. They rated it 80%. Other Barefooters there the same month said the beach was 90% nude and they rated it 90%. Even in August 2007, although there were quite a lot of textiles and umbrellas, there were lots of naturists too and a relaxed atmosphere. Barefoot reporters went there almost every day and had no problems.
Vatera
If you like solitude, you'll just love this shingle and sand beach backed by wooded hills. Vatera is far and away the longest beach on the island (at least 9kms), and according to a correspondent who visited in May 2005 it's one of the best nudist spots on Lesbos. The place to head for is the eastern end (on your left facing the sea) where you'll find plenty of like-minded all-over tan enthusiasts. But there's so much beach here, it could never get crowded. If there is any snag at all, it's a certain lack of privacy from the road which runs behind the beach, and a total like of facilities (if you want a bite to eat there is a clutch of restaurants at the far west end, but it's a long hike). But then the beauty of Vatera is its untouched and unspoilt barrenness. The rocks close to the eastern end also make for ideal snorkelling.
Kampos
On the road to Sigri, just before the left turn to Eressos, you can take a right turn to Gavathas. Just about halfway to Gavathas you will see a sign for Kampos Beach. You can follow this sign, but don't worry if you miss the turning as there's a second sign a little further on which is, in fact, a shorter track to the beach. Kampos is a very long, sandy, quiet and unspoilt beach and, despite September 2003 reports of "Nudism Forbidden" signs on the approach road, naturism is very much alive here. Our 2003 visitors reported: "There are no facilities, but we did not find this a problem. You will need to take your own umbrella as there is no natural shade. Not a good place for snorkelling, but excellent for lazing around and is safe for children. Definitely the best beach we visited." A Barefoot sunbather from May 2004 was less enthusiastic, discovering no one else on the beach which he described as "very unkempt."
A visitor in August 2006 said, "Fantastic long beach. A small amount of debris, but mainly nice sand, including under the water. Gently shelving. The 'nudism forbidden' sign is still there, but the length of the beach makes discreet nudism perfectly possible. Apart from us, there was just a sprinkling of Greek families. 80% rating."
Podaras
A sandy beach with a pebbly shoreline, Podaras is very popular with Greeks, which probably explains the "Nudism Forbidden" and "No Camping" signs that greet visitors. However, a Captain Barefoot reporter from September 2003 said that certainly hadn't discouraged a row of tents being pitched under the trees, and by early afternoon with everyone else having moved on it also meant it became perfectly possible to bare all. There are no refreshments (although Tavari Beach is close by), but there were toilets - and a changing hut, even if it didn't have a door! But then who needs a door when you're a naturist? In fact, who needs a changing hut, for that matter?
Skala Kalonis
To the east of the harbour is the most popular part of the beach which goes on for about 500m and is fully textile. However, carry on walking and the beach empties out for another 600-700m until you can go no further. A report from June 2005 notes that once past the last of the sunbeds and umbrellas nude sunbathing is the norm, with a mix of straight and gay couples and gay singles all taking advantage of a nice, quiet sandy beach. There is no shelter, so take your own umbrella and drinks.
Ambelia
This long, quiet and relaxing beach is found by taking the road from Anaxos to Skoutaros. About 2kms out of Anaxos you'll see Ambelia beach signposted down a long track. About 3kms along this track the road splits. Take the left fork and about 1km later you will arrive at the beach where it is necessary to turn the car and park along the road. A 1999 visitor talked of the beach boasting a freshwater pool, home to a population of turtles.
A report from July 2001 describes Ambelia as "very quiet and relaxing" with no more than 10 naturists on the beach, and about the same number of textiles further along. My contributors found the best way to get there was to walk over the headland from Anaxos on the old mule track. It's a bit of a trek, but the views are said to be spectacular. The easiest route is to follow the path alongside Anaxos Gardens. Take the left fork at the gardens, turn right at the T junction, take the next left fork and follow the track across the open field and over the headland. This takes you straight to the naturist part of the beach. Access to the sea here is not ideal because of all the seaweed. The small taverna at the centre of the beach was serving reasonable food at reasonable prices in the summer of 2001.
A more recent Barefoot sunbather visited this beach three times in August 2003, following the mule trail each time. The correspondent said that on the first day there was no-one nude, but on the subsequent two visits there were one or two nude couples, along with a number of textile sunbathers. The report concluded: "The beach is not very attractive, but is quiet and the snorkelling is good."
Nearby Anaxos is a quiet resort, but with plenty of tavernas and bars with a west-facing beach which is home to some stunning sunsets. And if you get the chance, check out Michelle's Bar on the resort's top road where several Barefoot reporters talk of great live music from two guys who play amazing bouzouki and guitar, ranging from jazz to Zorba's.
I am very amused by an email from one of my correspondents, who wrote: "The main reason for this email … is to thank you for telling us about Michelle's Bar. The food is pretty good on the few occasions when they cook, but it's aimed at the Brits and therefore is as authentically Greek as the Rose and Crown! But when he picks up that bouzouki, it's Instant Heaven. He doesn't even seem to play it: he just holds it and it sings as if to charm the heart out of your breast. There were other bouzouki players in Anaxos, more than I've ever known in one resort, but nobody to compare with this man and the two nephews who were backing him on guitar and drums.
"His name is Foti, and when we told him that we had read about Michelle's Bar on the internet, he was most eager to thank whoever was responsible."
This surely demonstrates - if demonstration is needed - that naturists are rounded people (especially after a good meal) with more than a single interest!
Beaches from Anaxos to Sigri
A Barefoot correspondent, who provided a comprehensive review of the island from a Summer 2004 visit, recommends checking out the countless coves and bays to be found by exploring the tracks off the road that runs along the coast between Anaxos and Sigri. The report says: " have visited a lot of these small coves and bays, almost all of which can be used for naturism. In most cases they were empty, or had only a few people on them (naturist and textile) and I would definitely recommend visiting these areas. Bear in mind that most of the roads leading to the beaches are dirt tracks. I would recommend renting a small jeep, but I have reached all these places with a small rental car as well."
Skala Eressos
Skala Eressos may be a favoured location for lesbians, but it can also be a great beach for naturist straight couples and families. In fact, contributors regularly score this place a maximum 100% rating. The beach is very long and made up of very coarse sand and, when the wind is not blowing, it's probably the best beach on the island.
Nude bathing is commonplace around the dried-up riverbed about 1km west of the town. Either walk along the beach, or drive along the road that runs parallel to it. Leave the car in the last parking area before the road turns inland. When you follow the road that runs parallel to the beach, a "Primitive" sign on a small hut points to the caravan selling drinks on the beach. Park wherever you can and walk north along the beach until you pass the old riverbed and you enter naturist country.
A report from August/September 2003 bemoans the fact that the nudist section was marred by the way some beach users had created semi-permanent camps, leaving their beach umbrellas and tents overnight. My correspondent says that instead of the beach looking a wonderful example of nature first thing in the morning, it resembled a rejects yard of a li-lo factory! The only consolation being that an overnight storm did a good job in blowing the whole lot away.
A report from June 2004 says: "Some 80 people were there, women and girls mainly with a few mixed couples; a very nice atmosphere. The beach is gravel and the water is the best on the island, ideal for long swims along the coast. At the end of this area there is an umbrella beach belonging to the Aeolian Hotel, which is not nudist."
An earlier report suggesting that there had been cases of theft or a problem with stalkers and textiles with cameras do not seem to be supported by any other submissions and the Captain can only think that the writer must have been mixing the beach up with somewhere else.
A report from August 2006 says that there were naturists to the west of the river bed. It went on to say "Not too crowded, a lot of lesbians but quite a few mixed couples and some families as well. 85% naturist. No sign of thefts, stalkers or textiles with cameras as referred to on CB report. We went with some trepidation but this was not justified. Lots of campers to the rear of the beach, but they/their tents did not detract from the beach. 80% rating."
Melinda
Located 6kms west of Plomari, the small beach village of Melinda is signposted along a good tarmac road and consists of a taverna and a couple of houses with rooms to let. The long pebble beach is very quiet just outside the taverna area, but is not for naturists. To tan nude follow the beach to the far left (facing the sea) until you reach a big cliff beneath a house. Beyond the cliff naturism is the norm. A report from May 2005 said it was popular with both couples and singles.
Tsichlioda
Follow the road from Skatouros to Sigri and after about 1-1.5kms a road sign points you to Tsichlioda beach and tavernas. It's a long track, but it eventually takes you to the beach and its two tavernas. The first one is particularly good and, according to one of my correspondents, serves the most delicious fried fish and the best Greek Salad on the island. While Tsichlioda is not officially nudist, it is a long beach and pretty quiet which makes nudity more than possible.
Faneromeni
A beautiful long, sandy beach divided by a white rock. My visitors were there in September 2003 on a windy day with huge breakers rolling in, providing some great fun in the sea. They report: "There was a scattering of people on the far side of the rock, all clothed. But on the side nearest the parking space there was no-one but us so it was possible to be nude. No facilities, but who cares in such a spectacular location."
A report from August 2006 said of Faneromeni, "Lovely long sandy/shingly beach. We were the only ones there all morning (at the more secluded northern end). Some textile Greek families arrived midday. Accessible by small hire car. 85% rating."
To get to this beach from Sigri, follow the road that goes north from the town, close to the coastline. After about 2 km, just past a house with green shutters, very close to the road on the left, go left onto a dirt track and follow this as it winds to the beach, which has a car parking area.
Sigri
Sigri is a very agreeable village in the north-west corner of Lesbos, about 10km north of Skala Eressos. There are several tavernas and quite a lot of accommodation. It has a "town beach" at the southern side of the village, and while topless bathing is accepted at the end furthest from the village, this beach is only about 10ft deep from road to sea and therefore not really suitable from the naturist point of view.
However, on all other beaches around Sigri naturism is accepted and commonplace among locals and visitors. The beaches around Sigri are probably the best and most sandy ones on Lesbos and, generally, there is little habitation anywhere.
Several correspondents have recommended Roy Lawrance's booklet "Sigri - Where The Road Ends" (available from the gift shop) as worth buying. It gives a lot of background about the village and the beaches
A report from mid-July 2002 says that Sigri, with its dry landscape and unspoiled character, is strongly reminiscent of the lost paradises of Paros and Antiparos of 20 years or so ago
A report from August 2006 said "There was always a good cooling breeze whilst we were in Sigri. On a couple of days, this was strong and we needed shelter to avoid being sand-blasted!"
North of Sigri
Beaches to the north of Sigri are beautiful - huge protected bays with wide soft sandy beaches and warm sea. There is Faneromeni (see above) or the slightly closer but more deserted Andromachis beach for real isolation among the dunes.
To get to Andromachis, take the same road north from Sigri that follows close to the coast. After about 1.5 km, not far past a church just up to the left of the road, go left through some rather grand looking metal gates (opposite a track to farm buildings on the right). This track to the left (which is not really driveable) rises before dropping to a flat area. At the cross tracks, go right and follow this track as it leads to the back of the beach.
South of Sigri
Limena beach is a well-established naturist beach.
As you leave Sigri towards the south, on the road that goes to Eressos, you first pass along the back of the 'town' beach. The road becomes a track as it rises and then falls to arrive at the next bay. This bay is mainly rocky. The track follows behind the bay. The far end of the bay is sandy, but rather too open to the track to be ideal for naturism. To reach Limena beach on foot, you can cross the rough ground from the track to this sandy section of the otherwise rocky bay and then go inland from this sandy section to cut across a low headland to arrive at Limena beach (the next bay). The whole beach seems predominately naturist, but the far end from Sigri has the best sand.
By car or bike, follow the track until you reach three buildings, one on the left and two on the right (about 1 km from Sigri). There's room to park here. Just past the second building on the right, walk through the gate on the right and then a second gate to follow the boundary wall of the property. At the end of this wall continue straight ahead to arrive at the beach.
Limena beach is quite popular, partly because of the two large turtle ponds. It will have plenty of people on it, but they will be well spread out, protected in the semi-circular rocky windbreaks.
When my correspondents were there, there were seven couples in all, all nude - and one of the couples said that was the most crowded they had ever seen it.
Another report from May 2004 said "when there were no more than 12 people on any of the beaches - and sometimes just the two of us".
A visitor from August 2006 said "Definitely the best beach we visited. The southern half was 90% naturist, with just a few (mainly English) couples, very relaxed atmosphere, most people enjoying walks along the water's edge. Stone wind breaks, lovely sand, including under water, gently shelving, even terrapins in the pool behind the beach! Accessible by small hire car (although most naturists walked from Sigri). Must give this a 100% rating."
Bring your own umbrellas as there is no shade, and certainly no refreshments. But it is sandy, and it is deserted, and it is predominately nude. What more could you ask for?
Eftalou
Served daily by buses from the main holiday destinations of Molyvos, Petra and Anaxos (in season), Eftalou boasts a long shingle and sand beach used extensively by naturists. It's a 10-minute drive by car from the taxi-bus depot in Molyvos, from where you turn right and follow the road for about 500m to an intersection. Continue straight down the road for another 1km until you reach a fork. Turn right, and 200m further on turn left at another fork. Follow this road to the main beach. You'll pass a taverna/fast food kiosk on the right where you can stock up with drinks/suntan lotion. Continue on down the road, passing two large beaches until the road starts to climb. Park around here, walk on up the hill until you spot a cement driveway on your left and a sign for the natural thermal baths. On reaching the beach, keep going east until you reach the naturist section.
A visitor in September 2006 points out that "You can access the beaches through the thermal baths. The bath building is right on a small pebbly beach. Walk at the back of the building and into the changing room, you can see a doorway on the opposite side of the changing room, take this doorway (you can look into the thermal bath through an doorway on the left) The doorway comes out onto a small pebbly beach, keep walking for another six or seven bays, some large some very small." In fact you can pass to the left (seaward) side of the building without getting too wet or you can use the concrete driveway, mentioned above.
There are nine interlinking nine bays in total and you can walk from one to the next easily. Only the last two or three beautiful beaches are exclusively nude. In fact, a report from September 2005 says naturists occupied the final five main bays. My correspondent described them as "all pebbles, no facilities, but a wonderful setting which we adored - quite busy but still very peaceful and relaxing." Water sandals or similar are very useful here.
Another report from June 2004 says it's a bit difficult to get into initially, but the water is crystal clear, and gives it a 100% rating.
I am told that some naturists use the thermal baths. But be warned - the water is very hot! Apart from the excellent taverna there are no other facilities here. The building next to the taverna is a church, so nude bathing on this part of the beach would be insensitive.
The arrangements at the thermal baths are that the communal baths are not naturist, whereas the individual baths (which can be shared) are clothing optional. Barefooters tried both and can recommend them both.
Another correspondent tells me that in his view, of all the naturist beaches on Lesbos, Eftalou wins hands down, mainly because the snorkelling is so interesting. It also seems to be the most popular beach on the island for naturists of all nationalities - including Greeks.
The September 2006 visitor found that the last few coves were "100% nude, very quiet and peaceful beaches with only five couples, all M/F. No shade, no sand, 100% large pebbles, too uncomfortable to lie upon using a towel, all of the regulars took yoga mats to lie upon. The yoga mats are a necessity on this beach !! The sea was crystal clear. Very painful on the feet to enter the sea. Rates at 80% (100% for the peace - 40% for pebbles)."
A visitor in October 2006 found this beach lived up to all of the recommendations, but did find water sandals a necessity.
In May 2007, Barefooters reported that this very clean beach was easily accessed and offered many places to sunbathe. On the first three coves there were mainly textiles, the remaining three/four coves mainly naturists and there was plenty of room. Although the beach is pebbly they were very flat in shape so with a good quality towel to lie on there is little or no discomfort. My contributors endorse earlier comments about the taverna, and said that they found the hot springs a refreshing way to round off a good day's sunbathing. Other Barefooters confirmed that the last few coves were 100% nude and very pleasant, despite the uncomfortable pebbles.
One of my many gay readers reports that the last two bays at Eftalou are mainly gay and lesbian areas and it is known that rather obvious sexual acts are sometimes seen there. The Captain always advises naturists - gay or straight - to respect the difference between the beach and the bedroom and avoid giving offence.
The same Barefooter, in a report from June 2007, agrees that the pebbles can be hard on bare feet, but the water is very clean. However be aware that snakes and scorpions have sometimes been seen near the top rocks. There is also a dirt road that you can take around the actual bay and end up straight at the end bays where another lovely beach with bird life and plants can be found. This is done by not parking near the hot springs, but taking the uphill dirt road right in front of you and follow the road till you find other cars and scooters parked, then walk down to the beach and head left (facing the water). This way you will end up at the last bay and it's much quicker than walking the whole length.
Other Barefooters echoed the comments about the peaceful nature of Eftalou. It was their first "proper" naturist experience, and they would certainly recommend it to first timers - enough naturist people around to give confidence to bare all, but not at all intrusive - generally keeping themselves to themselves.
Captain's Top Tip: Take your own umbrella. There is no natural shelter here and the sun can be very punishing, even in September.
Agios Isodoros
This coarse white sand beach is at the far south-western tip of Lesbos where a Barefoot correspondent talks of finding a bay with beautiful, crystal clear, turquoise blue water. Another visitor describes Isodoros as a perfect beach with the clearest water. If you want to go naked, head for the left hand side of the beach and halfway along the stretch of sand you're more likely to be on your own to be able to swim and sunbathe nude. The shallows are also said to be ideal for snorkelling as the rock formations are teeming with sea-life.
A visitor in September 2006 said, "I walked to the left part of the Agios Isidoros beach. We were three people at the end of the beach. I and a couple from Norway who sunbathed naked. Some people passing us towards the main beach. They did not care about us. The locals in the houses nearby did not care about us either. We were the only nude people there at the weekdays. On Sundays the locals showed up with the whole family on the beach. All textiles. That is the only day you'll feel uncomfortable by lying there naked. So don't go there on Sundays unless you want to keep your clothes on." This person rated the beach about 60 to 80%
