Thessaly

Pilion

The Pilion peninsula has a ridge of high mountains down its central spine. Khorefto (Chorefton, according to Google Maps) is on the Eastern greener side, and we suspect gets some mixed weather outside of the main season. The whole area is criss-crossed by old cobbled donkey paths, kalderimia, along which my correspondents enjoyed several wonderful walks. The sea, like everywhere in Greece, was crystal clear - a snorkeller's paradise. Even in August there were only a handful of foreigners; Khorefto is a small Greek village where the Greeks go on holiday. The Pilion being such a gem, make sure you visit it before the package tour rush!

A Barefoot reporter's visit in August coincided with the start of the start of the apple picking: the Pilion is the main apple-growing area of Greece. Each day more apple crates were piled up along the edges of the road. Zagora, 20 minutes back up the mountain from Khorefto, is the main town for the area and apple-growing capital of Greece. Zagora boasts a bank, a good selection of shops, and a wonderful old town square lined with bars and tavernas. All shaded by huge 100-year-old pine trees, under which the old men sit gossiping and smoking. My reporter rated it 90%; sounds wonderful.

These reports are in order clockwise, starting from North of the Zagora district and finishing inside the Pagasetic Gulf.


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Rakopotamos

See on Google Maps

This is a jewel to be discovered. We visited as a family, during August 2014. Although in the middle of the high season, the beach was almost 70% naturists. Crystal waters, rich snorkelling, fine sand. Natural shade from the mountain and the rocks. The beach is used for free camping (4-5 campers while we were there). From the busy center of Agiokampos, follow the road to the port and the signs to Polydendri. Drive about 10-15 minutes, through beautiful scenery. On route you will see a few more diamond beaches (but not naturist). I suggest you visit another day, they are all beautiful. You will meet Rakopotamos sign on the bridge over the river and after 100 metres a tavern which welcomes you and a few cars parked over there. Don't stop there. It will lead you to the official beach of Rakopotamos, which is equally nice but not naturist. Drive another 200 metres and you will meet a steep curve of the road with a "parking lot" enough for 3-4 cars on your right side. Look carefully on your left side and you will notice the beginning of a path, through the mountain that leads to the beach. It's a 10 minute walk, fully worth it. Take water and everything you need, you will not find anything down there. The beach will compensate you for your effort. PLEASE KEEP IT CLEAN. If you visit in July or September, chances are that you will be bit less than alone.

We visited this beach regularly in 2019. It is a great clean beach with amazing, clean waters and relatively easy access. A hidden gem and definitely the most beautiful beach in Thessaly. It is accessible through an easy path that starts from the main road where you can park your car. It is almost 100% nudist and attracts many campers (mostly Greeks who leave their tents for the whole season).


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Khorefto

Khorefto, four hours north of Athens, offers two beaches. The main village beach has a few shops, several tavernas, rooms to rent, and a campsite with good facilities. Over the headland to the north (5 mins) the northern beach is clothes optional and home to the free campers. Even in August Khorefto was quiet and relaxed. This beach was large, much less crowded than Studland and perhaps about 50% nude. The village was lively but not crowded and the Tavernas always had room - even for a family of five. My correspondents particularly recommend the Milotis Eridhos Taverna run by the Apple Growers Co-Operative, it was right on the beach and offered a wide range of good quality traditional Greece dishes, many freshly cooked that morning. In true Greek style, the waiter would take you over to the kitchen to show you what was on the menu that night.
This is the beach in front of the village. All bathers were dressed (July 2016); so go to the next beach, Parisaina.

Parisaina

A closer view on Google Maps

The beach after Khorefto village to the left facing the sea is Parisaina and now is occupied by campers. Campers are fully dressed - very few women topless. At July 2016 we visited twice this beach. A midweek day and a Sunday. Midweek was the first time there. After our arrival we sat at the middle of the beach. We decided to stay in swimsuits, my wife topless. After seeing 2-3 nudist couples and other 2-3 nude men (about 5% of the bathers) at the end of the beach, we stayed in the same place totally nude many hours. Next Sunday the situation was different. There were more that 150 campers and bathers. This time we sat near the only one nudist couple we met and we decided to stay au naturel. All over the beach were no more than 10 nudists, the couple of two young girls above, two single women and 3-4 single men but this young nude couple left the beach. A young girl lying on the beach 2 metres next to us - in her full bikini - didn't stop staring at my genitals behind her dark sunglasses laughing. So I wore my swimsuit for a long walk across the beach because I felt uncomfortable nude. The same time my woman felt very relaxed although she was the only woman who walked fully naked in front of groups of dressed men and she didn't care when stayed with open legs for the sun. She likes very much Parisaina beach and her advice is to go there. My advice is to go there because the beach is clean and huge, but Melani beach is a better choice.

July 2021. Parisaina is still suitable for nudism. Especially the northern end where there was a strong mix of nude and textile. No one seemed worried. However if you head up the path at the north end of th beach you will soon come to Tourkopigi Beach (sometimes Analipsi). Here the bathers were all nude couples and campers. Very relaxed atmosphere. You should be warned that beach gets very wavy so check the forecast.


Another Barefoot reporter, who visited in June 2007, was not very successful in finding beaches suitable for nudism on the east side. Mylopotamos, Plaka at Aghios Ioannis were both textiles only, and at Damouchari (Ntamouchari) the main beach was textiles only; my reporters got naked only on the cliff that separates the two beaches.


Melani/Potistika

See on Google maps

The Captain hears that, on the east coast of Pilion, driving through Argalasti, you will find two beautiful sandy beaches, Potistika and Melani, divided from each other by a small hill. There seems to be some confusion as to which is which!(2020) The understanding here, for many years now, is that Melani is the northern one, with Potistika to the south. Current name labels on Google have it the other way about, with the added complication that a third, smaller bay beyond the southern headland also has a Melani pin in it. Early local investigation on this point would be most welcome (ask several restaurateurs)! Meanwhile, dear reader, it would be wise to read all parts of this section together until it can be authoritatively corrected.

The northern part of Melani, the north beach, is nearly totally nude, and well known by Greek nudists too. Barefooters have found it one of the best on the Pelion (July 2007). It's shingle rather than sand but the sea is cleaner and easier to get into than some of the other beaches which seem to be more bouldery. On the two days my reporters visited there were more nudes than textiles, so it gets top marks. There's no taverna on this beach, but it's only a short drive to Paltsi where there is an excellent one. Rating: 75%.

A 2009 report for Melani: The northern part of the beach was exclusively nude even during the high season. There were quite a few free campers, but the beach is big and can accommodate many. There is a little discreet taverna at walking distance at Melani, (and the other ones at Potistika, provided you don't mind the 15 minute walk through the beach).

July 2011: Simply the best and most beautiful beach (nude or otherwise) that I've been on in many a year. The water was so clean and transparent it was unreal, and the breeze was just right. It felt like being back in the '70's or '80's. The northern part, beyond a couple of rocks, is almost totally nude and very relaxed. Potistika, on the other hand, looked like far more of a family beach, 100% textile.
July 2011: We had a lovely time in Melani beach. We camped there for 1 week. It was great and quiet (except for the weekend, when a lot of people came to the beach - a nudist and dressed mixed crowd). The taverna on the beach is nice, but the prices are a bit on the high side and portions small. For the evenings a lovely and cheap place to eat is the village of Argalasti (approx 10 km from the beach), offering a much greater variety, bigger portions and great prices.

Wonderful beach, probably the best and most beautiful nudist beach in Greek mainland today (July 2016). Easy access, sandy and rocky bottom, no sandals needed. We stayed a full day there. Beyond the first rock at the left side of the beach facing the sea nobody wore swimsuit, so the beach is almost totally nude (100%) - before the rock at the other part of the beach the bathers are textiles, most of local Greek women go topless. We met there more than 10 nudist couples, half of them Greeks, str8 and lesbian, plus 5-6 single men and women. Very relaxed atmosphere, all nudists discussing, spend the time sunbathing and walking around the beach, showing and seeing totally nude bodies. When I passed in front, a young Greek woman opened her legs to show me her vagina, smiling at the same time. Nobody - man or woman - felt bad about his or her sex there, so the only no-no is photos. I noticed one single man masturbating more than 4 hours (!) but nobody disturbed, he was hidden between rocks.

June 2019 - We approached Melani from Potistika which has good parking and is a very beautiful beach although not naturist. Going over the small hill to the South we came to a small bay that was a bit of a litter trap but seemed OK for being nude. [This sounds like the third beach mentioned above.] At the end of that bay there are some rocks and just beyond them we found a happy mix of nude, topless and nude people. Lovely beach, great atmosphere.

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Here you can find all the places to stay at Potistika which is very close to Melani beach.


Ramnos/Paradeisos

See on Google Maps

In the Pagasetic Gulf south of Koropi, just before Afissos, is a beautiful beach at "the cape". Last part is totally nude. Easily accessed from Koropi: take the path to the right at the point where the road begins to climb going towards Afissos.
However reports from June 2007 suggest that the beach is now textiles only.
The beach (2009 report) is totally for gay nude guys, it is called Ramnos - or the name of the nearby taverna, Paradeisos… the gay section is behind the rocks.

Another gay nudism beach is near the city of Volos on the road to Agria, 500m before the cement factory. See on Google Maps


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