aka Lefkatha, Leukada or Lefkada
Greeks call it Lefkatha (stress on the first "a"; "th" pronounced like in "that"), Lefkas being somewhat archaic. In English it's often translated as Lefkada.
The Captain hears that the entire west coast of this island offers an opportunity for the naturist to indulge. It is very long and going as far South as possible took you away from any crowds. However, it looks as if development is threatening it. The eastern part of the island was rather too populous and there didn't seem to be any traditional naturist sites. There is a lot of coastline only accessible by boat or brave motor travellers and so there may be possibilities here. However, our [original] correspondents were supposed to be learning to sail so didn't explore these possibilities!
Island links
For more information about Lefkas try:
- feelgreece.com
- greeka.com
- Mike Barrett's Greece Guides
- Lefkada Travel Guide
BEACHES NORTH TO SOUTH (all on the West coast except the last one)
Aghios Ioannis
Barefooters who visited in June 2004 report that this beach is about 2 km from Lefkas Town on the northern tip of the west coast. Whilst not as dramatic or beautiful as the other west coast beaches its access is easier and quicker. The beach is popular with windsurfers and kite surfers and the breeze does pick up during the afternoon. This is centred on the southern part of the beach.
My reporters spent a couple of afternoons at the northern end (beyond the windmills) on a quiet stretch. The other occupants were all nude. This was midweek, at the weekend the beach was full of locals and 100% textile. In summary, worth a visit for a couple of hours if you are too lazy to go further (or walking from Levkas town) and it's midweek. The water was clean, the beach a mix of sand and shingle. It rated 80%.
Recent reports
April: We drove the entire length of the road adjacent to the dunes but all the tracks leading through the dunes to the beach had barriers or no entry signs. Not sure if these tracks lead to the car park referred to in the 2010 report, or if these access restrictions are permanent, but it seems off-road parking may now be limited. We were able to park in a layby just south of Orlof’s Windmill
Unfortunately overcast and windy when we visited at the end of the month, hence beach empty and too chilly to strip off. Looks a promising location though.
There is a beach bar/taverna at Orlof’s Windmill (the only one with arms for sails)
Gialou Skala / Tsoukalides
See Gialou Skala Beach on Google Maps
Barefooters also "found a very small beach at Gialou Skala down a paved road from the village of Tsoukalides which was 100% deserted when we got there and 100% deserted still when we left 4 hours later, sandy, felt very comfortable".
Recent reports
October: We found the beach to be mostly large pebbles and rocks with just a few small patches of sand. There is a small car park next to the beach where there were a couple of free campers in camper vans.
On the beach there were only two other textile, free-camping couples (m/f) and a diver (m) who had been spear fishing so nudism is certainly possible. However the pebbles were not comfortable to sit on and as the sea was rather rough we felt skinny dipping would be hazardous amongst all the rocks and boulders. We decided to move on to neighbouring Pefkoulia but if you prefer pebbles to sand this beach may be a good option.
Pefkoulia
See Pefkoulia Beach on Google Maps
Pefkoulia beach is located about 2 km north of the village of Aghios Nikitas. If you come from Aghios Nikitas village, turn to the left at the "Cafe" sign and park beside the taverna. It is a very long beach split into two sections by rocks over which there is a pathway. There is a taverna on the southern part and this part is completely textile. The nudist part is the northern one over the rocks. In this photo the taverna can be seen on the right. The dark area of water on the shoreline just beyond the taverna marks the outcrop of rocks separating the textile and nudist parts of the beach.
Approaching from the north, 2km before reaching Ag Nikitas, just follow the route for Pefkoulia beach. When you reach the taverna, go right and cross the small bridge. After crossing a small path (100m) you will reach Pefkoulia beach. It's a nice beach, with soft sand, shade under nearby pine trees and rates 90%.
Where you park your car, there is a beach bar with sunbeds-umbrellas and even rooms to rent! A lot of people there too but the beach is very long and most of them stay close to the bar and the sunbeds. As you walk away from the beach bar, you see many free campers under the pine trees and nudism varies from 2% close to the bar, to 100% as you walk north. Long nude walks are said to be possible at this end of the beach. There may be numerous tents on the beach.
At the very end of the beach (north), just before the rocks there is a wonderful area under the pine trees, made by an Austrian couple in around 1998, and maintained every summer (the Captain's contributor carries out the maintenance). Shade, flat areas for camping or siesta, ideal place for the hot days. But we are warned there is an extremely high risk of fire, so please avoid smoking.
Due to the large crowds I would advise anyone visiting the beach in peak season to take along their own food and water. One pair of Barefooters had to wait 2 hours to obtain food at the taverna. Of course the same advice applies out of season when the two tavernas are usually closed.
This beach consists of coarse sand; the great advantage is, especially later in the year, it is sheltered from the wind by the mountains so it really is quite warm. Of course the same mountains provide shade in the summer should you require.
In August 2004 a large number of people had taken to using the large rocks that divide the beach as a launch point for motorised hang gliding.
Visitors in 2010 first passed the beach without noticing it. The name Pefkoulia is not mentioned anywhere (or just very difficult to find). Past the taverna the beach quickly changes from textile to textile + a few nude bathers. Walk another 100m along the beach and you'll find that all people around you are in the nude. It may well be the busiest nude beach at Lefkas, with camping people on the hill behind the beach. The beach is mostly sand with a few bigger rocks in the sea. Not as many insects as on other beaches (like Kathisma) in 2010.
Recent reports
September
When at the Northern layby, walking down the gray concrete steps may seem counterintuitive but totally worth it. Be careful with mosquitoes, especially in the evening as you will traverse a gorgeous but forested area with the dry river, over the bridge and the wild camping site. You will indeed see a sign with unkind words about foreign tourists and Airbnb. The nudist part is to the North to the place where you arrive on the beach. Absolutely gorgeous location with a very free spirit. Shade opportunities are slim. To the very North there are three sand coves separated by rocks. This part of the beach is mostly male/gay and is a cruising spot (with condoms to be found on the gound). Spent one whole afternoon from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. before heading home. Water is crystal-clear, don't forget your beach shoes as there are many rocks when entering the water which can prove to be very slippery.
Milos Beach
See Milos Beach on Google Maps
Located just over the hill south of Aghios Nikitas village, this beach is, together with Egremni, absolutely the best nudist beach on Lefkas (though it must be said many reports say exactly this about different Lefkas beaches). The sand is excellent although composed of fairly sizeable grains, and there is sand also on the sea bed. The setting is beautiful and the beach is large. My contributors estimated that about 75-80% were nude, mainly at the northern end. If you are not sure where to lay down, try one of the ends. At the southern end it is possible to get shade in some caves.
Apart from the taxi-boat from Aghios Nikitas, the only other way to the beach from land is by way of a footpath over the hill from Aghios Nikitas.
The path begins on a stairway just to the right of a restaurant called "Milos Restaurant" and is highly recommended for its beautiful views (see photo on the left).
Nudity is very acceptable (the Taxi boat drops you away from the nudists to be discreet).The beach is well known & accepted by locals and the busiest time is from 2pm onwards, although this is an overstatement because you are at least 50 feet from the next people.
The beach can also be reached by 2 taxi boats, the "Express Milos" taking only 3 mins from Aghios Nikitas (cost 3 Euro return). The second (slower) boat carries on to visit the north end of Kathisma Beach. There are no umbrellas and no taverna, so be sure to have enough food and water. A new road, on which work commenced in 2000, stops at the top of a hill where a new cellphone antenna was erected. This road does not lead to the beach. The Captain understands there are still no plans for a road down to the beach (July 2018).
Most people nude although a few textiles around the northern end but didn't appear to be an issue for anyone. My contributor did not feel he could give it anything but 100%!
Recent reports
We started from Agios Nikitas and visited this beach by boat in August and through the trail in September. After trying both, I recommend going through the trail and leaving by boat, since the ascent when leaving is hard.
The beach is simply amazing, especially if you are lucky enough to be there on a calm day without wind (usually in June or September).
Both times we had no trouble going nude. We went to southern half of the beach where everyone was nude and spent the entire day there.
Kathisma
This is a very long beach with several coves located south of Milos beach. If you want to be alone in your own cove this might be your choice. The sand is rather coarse and there is a lot of shingle. The beach can be reached from both ends. To reach the northern end turn off from the way between Aghios Nikitas and Kalamitsi. The signpost reads "Kathisma beach". The main beach is textile with a taverna at each end. Park at the southern taverna (Akroyiali), where you will be able to shower on your return, walk past a low rocky headland and you reach the nudist part. It is best to walk along the shore line as the path at the back of the beach is crumbling away in parts and is becoming dangerous.
Starting at this restaurant and walking southwards, the beach becomes naturist surprisingly quickly; after perhaps 150 metres, there's a little beach (~200m) and walking here is difficult because you sink down in the soft sand and pebbles. Then, after some big rocks, the beach opens up to a practically deserted naturist beach. Walking here is easier.
Kavafis reporting in August 2021 says "I realized that the beach currently referred as the third bay of Kathisma and Gaidaros are actually the same place." Bear this in mind when reading what follows….
This third section of the beach is the best for swimming (more sand). The road at the back of this section of beach has collapsed. Beyond this it continues and provides access as small vehicles arrived from the other direction, which makes access with a bit of luggage much easier. It is quite a drive from the main entrance, but it saves you a long walk and climb along the beach and over the rocks.
Reports say that the second and third beaches are totally nude and almost completely deserted. The first beach (with the taverns) is fully textile.
Recent reports
Visited the nude (southern) part of Kathisma (here) 3 times this summer. To find it you park at the southern end of the road and then walk on the beach and past the rocks. Beyond that point, everyone is nude and you can easily find a spot there. There may be occasional textiles walking by from the main beach, but no creepy single gawkers here.
April: The northern end and much of Kathisma beach is backed by tavernas and is 100% textile. However, nudism is accepted beyond the rocks at the southern end 38°46'20.7"N 20°35'54.7"E. When we visited at the end of April there was just one other m/f naturist couple and a small group of textiles at the southmost end.
Kathisma is a gently sloping gritty sand and pebble beach backed by high ground. The sand and small pebbles shelve gently for a few metres below the waterline but then there is a small drop onto larger smooth rocks and boulders. These can make entering and, even more so, exitting the water difficult, particularly if there is an onshore breeze whipping up waves. When we were there the waves were churning up the sand so water clarity was poor and not great for swimming but probably OK in calmer conditions.
Gaidaros
In April and May 2019, Barefoot correspondents walked the coast from Kathisma beach 38°46'47.8"N 20°36'03.7"E" to Avali (Kalamitsi) beach 38°45'33.8"N 20°35'34.2"E and found a wonderful naturist beach between the two aforementioned beaches. Situated 1km northwest of the village of Kalamitsi, the beach is identified in many tourist guides as Gaidaros. It is quite possible some of the reports previously listed, above and below, under these other beach names may in fact refer to Gaidaros.
From the north Gaidaros can be reached on foot from the southern end of Kathisma beach or, from the direction of Avali (Kalamitsi) to the south, by road. The road runs parallel to the beach and is paved to 38°46'00.8"N 20°35'47.8"E and then a rough dirt track continues a further 0.6km to the southern end of Kathisma.
It is far less busy than neighbouring Kathisma and reputed to be a well-established naturist venue. In April / May our correspondents found it almost deserted and the few people on the beach were indeed mostly naturists. It is a lovely, gently sloping, gritty sand and pebble beach backed by high ground. There are no facilities on the beach but there are a couple of beach bars on the road behind. These appeared abandoned when our correspondents visited but it was early in the season.
Recent reports
April/May: Parking space along the paved road is a bit limited and we decided not to venture down the dirt track although it may be drivable with care or with a 4WD vehicle.
As we arrived a camper van arrived and parked up close to the end of the paved road. The two male occupants, wearing nothing more than back packs, and their dogs disembarked and nonchalantly walked along the road and down to the beach … confirmation if needed that Gaidaros is indeed popular with naturists!
Being a little more isolated, Gaidaros is better for naturists than neighbouring Kathisma and in our view is a much nicer beach. When we were there it was windy and the waves were churning up the sand so water clarity was poor and not great for swimming. Probably OK in calmer conditions though.
Kalamitsi
Traditional and unspoilt, Kalamitsi is one of the oldest villages in Lefkas. More info here Within a few kilometres of the village, on the west coast, are three beaches, two naturist friendly and one perhaps not. In previous Barefoot reports, and some tourist guides, they are sometimes individually or collectively known as Kalamitsi Beach but in fact it seems that none of these beaches are actually named as such. Starting from the northernmost beach, in anticlockwise order they are Avali, Kavalikefta and Megali Petra.
Recent reports
Unsure if there is an actual beach called Kalamitsi; perhaps this is just the name of the village and there are a few beaches you can reach from it, namely Avali, Kavalikefta & Megali Petra and based on the reports above, possibly the southern part of Kathisma.
As you leave Kalamitsi village and drive downhill on a narrow winding road, you reach a point where there are various signs (for beaches, beach bars, etc):
- If you head right, you reach Avali beach and, continuing north, the southern part of Kathisma (based on reports under Kathisma).
- If you head left, you reach a car park eventually, where you can pay and park your car. There is also a right bend of the downhill road, just before you reach the car park at the very end, where you can park (on street) and take the path to the beach (path visible on Google maps). If you reach the car park, you can also find a restaurant there and Kavalikefta beach. If you leave the restaurant behind you and walk further south past rocks, you reach Megali Petra beach.
Avali
See on Google Maps
In a straight line Avali is only 1km west of the village of Kalamitsi. However, by road it is 5km and furthest away of the three Kalamitsi beaches. The winding road is narrow and steep in places and perhaps because of this Avali beach is relatively quiet. Out of season likely to be deserted. There are no facilities on the beach but there is a Taverna near the northern end. The beach is coarse sand and pebbles. More info here
Recent reports
May: Repairs to the paved road following the 2015 earthquake appear to have been completed and we had no problem getting through. Even in our small 2WD car we didn’t find the drive as difficult as some reports suggest. That said, there were no other vehicles around and being narrow with relatively few passing places it is undoubtedly more difficult when the road is busier in peak season.
We only stopped briefly before continuing on to Gaidaros but the beach was empty and certainly this early in the year there would be no problem at all being naked. Good beach and much like neighbouring Gaidaros though not as long. As might be expected in such a quiet location, the taverna wasn’t open this early in the season.
Kavalikefta
Experience from June 2011: Do not stay at the textile beach just below the cantina. The nude part of the beach [Megali Petra] is located to the left (south) across the rocky ground. You have to walk by a barely visible footpath about 200 metres through the rocks, so you will need good shoes. But you will be greatly rewarded if you do. The beach [Megali Petra] is beautiful and 100% nude.
Kavalikefta is a wonderful beach which now (2014) has plenty of people wearing swimsuits. Many women are topless, but don't confuse topless with nude beach. When we arrived (early), at the first section of the beach there were about 60 bathers all wearing swimsuits. At the end of this section are the 5-6 spectacular rocks that you can go up (I don't suggest it). We decided to undress before these rocks. After us came a nudist family and another nudist couple and did the same. One hour later three nudist couples came at the beach just after Kavalikefta [Megali Petra], because this beach isn't visible from the main beach. Although we were few (12-15 nudist between more than 150 dressed people), the beach is wonderful, maybe better than Egremni. The place is touristy and a part of the dressed bathers who came to see the rocks, looked persistently at our private parts but who cares! So go there and keep the beach nudist! More info here
Recent reports
October: A small section of the road down to the café at Kavalikefta Beach has partly collapsed. A rudimentary repair has been made by filling with rock and gravel but although it is still passable we decided to leave our small hire car further back and walk.
Megali Petra
Further south after the big fallen rock is Megali Petra (big stone in Greek). You can go there following a path, 300m long before the last turn of Megali Petra road - not easy if you wear sandals.
A Barefoot reporter who called here in 2004 says it might be one of the best places he has ever visited. It's on the west side of the island. Follow the signs to the Kalamitsi village and then follow the sign "to the beach". After 4 kilometres of a very narrow road, park the car just one turn before the end of this road. You will see a dirt path on your left side. Walk down the path until you reach the beach after a 10 minutes walk. Be aware it's a difficult path especially during your return. Don't forget to bring water, food or anything else you might need, since there is nothing you will find on this beach except nature.
Reaching the beach will reward you. Crystal clear water, blue-green, fantastic scenery all around. The beach is divided in 3-4 segments by rocks, but you can reach every part of it walking. We saw more than 50 people there, all naturists and one free camper. Free camping there is not advised because of the path I mentioned above. A superb beach. My reporter rates it 100%. More info here
Recent reports
August: We visited this beach. The naturist part is after the rocks splitting the beach into two.
Perfect place for naturism! As the path is a bit steeper than Pefkoulia, it doesn't attract that many people in the naturist part (which is also bigger than Pefkoulia).
October: We had intended to park at the café at Kavalikefta Beach and walk back up to the footpath to Megali Petra beach, however the road had partly collapsed (see October 2021 report for Kavalikefta above) so we parked further back up the hill. Adjacent to where the footpath starts 38°45'12.5"N 20°35'22.4"E some development seems to have begun so it is no longer possible to park in the small layby just there. Too early to tell exactly what but we do hope it doesn’t adversely impact access to Megali Petra or result in it being taken over by textiles.
Unfortunately it started to rain so we abandoned our visit before stripping off. Little seems to have changed though and there were only a few people on the beach so for the time being we are sure it remains naturist friendly.
Gialos
Gialos beach is a very long beach to the north of Egremni. You reach it from the village Athani by a winding way down that leads to the northern end of the beach. Nudism is practised on the southern part of the beach which is also the best. Here long nude walks are possible although the sand tends to be coarser at the southern end.
It's really a beach for nudists and has very easy access by car even [though] the road is very curvy and narrow and quite difficult driving. There seems to be a new tarmac road from just outside Dragano. This makes it an easy drive down to the beach, although beware of the potholes! Take the road down to the beach and turn south to the dirt road until you reach the end, and park on the top of a small hill. The road down is very steep, 300m from the top, with many bends - scary for some…
From there and to the south the beach is completely nude. Just few nudist couples and a very long beach just for you. There is no shade and you may find some tar. There are 2 cantinas at the end of the asphalt road. Many contributors over the years think it's the best nudist beach in Lefkas.
Recent reports
September
Personally the absolute best nude beach on the island. I recommend to park your car/scooter past the cantina and as far as possible to the South after the asphalt road. The road turns then to stones and finally to sand. We saw some RVs from which people would come out nude and go down directly to the beach. Reaching the very very south of the beach requires a long walk (probably 40-45 mins) that can be done completely naked but the reward is worth it. Once again bear in mind that shadow possibilities are very scarce unless you manage to get some from one of the rocks. However you'll be completely on your own or possibly with 1-2 more people who came to this spot before you. Another piece of advice would be to take some beach shoes as the beach is made of small pebbles and entering the water can be slippery due to the presence of immersed rocks close to the shore.
Egremni
This too is a beautiful large beach with excellent sand under impressive (and crumbling) cliffs. From the parking area take a 50 metre path to a cantina. From there the stair begins all the way down to the beach, allegedly 430 steps. It's easy to go down (though the last part is not for anyone with vertigo), but when you want to climb back carrying your load you will probably work up a bit of a sweat. Anyway the beach is nice and nudism is practised at the southern part. Earlier reports confirm that the beach was almost completely nude - and quiet - after say 4 pm, as all the 'day-tourists' move on again (and the remaining ones try for the first time how naturism feels…)
Some Barefoot reporters think Egremni is the very best beach on Lefkas (there seem to be several candidates for this honour, however) also the stairs down to the beach are not the problem. Going up is. It's a good idea is to stop at the top and admire the view from the cafe. Cold drinks are served at the bottom on the beach as well. Taking your own beverages is a good idea.
The south side is the naturist part of the beach. A good mix of visitors, couples, families and singles. Age mixture also very good. Relaxed atmosphere. Not crowded. Lots of parking places. My contributors warmly recommend this beach to everyone!
Access by land was destroyed by an earthquake in 2015 then making the only way of reaching the beach by boat. A new access road and stairway has since been built and in 2021 the beach once again could be reached by land.
Recent reports
Kavafis reports in August: "great news that the staircase in Egremni was repaired and reopened this summer. Didn´t have a chance to try it though."
Presumably the implication is that the road repairs have been completed too
October: As reported above by Kavafis and further to our report from May 2019 we can confirm the road is now open, well at least for non-vehicular access! The gate across the road is chained open wide enough for pedestrians.
In all probability it was fully open during peak season as signage indicates the parking charge is €5/a day. No one to collect fees at this time of the year so parking outside of the gates is free. As might be expected this late in the season the café was closed too.
The new way down is well engineered and safe but even so, particularly the demanding climb back up isn't for the faint hearted so take plenty of water.
If you are unfit or suffer from vertigo one of the many boat trips from various places around Lefkas probably a better option for you though again at this time of the year none are running.
As indicated above, the cliffs are continually crumbling so do be aware that falling rocks are a hazard.
There had been recent storms when we visited so there were rock falls across the new road. We even had to negotiate our way around a tree that had fallen onto the new stairway.
Well worth the effort though as there were no more than a dozen visitors to the beach that day and we had the southern half of the beach to ourselves so no problem being naked.
It remains to be seen what impact the massive investment in the earthquake repairs and growing commercialisation will have on this beach's suitability for nudism.
Porto Katsiki
The beach is cut into two parts by big stones that have fallen down. The northern part is now textile and although earlier reports said that the rather small southern part behind the stones is nude, reports from July 2001 suggest no nudism there any more. What's more, the southern end is in shade until lunchtime. You reach the beach by steps cut in the hillside, beginning at a taverna. A report from July 2005 confirms no nudism. Reports from 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013 (returning naturists) further confirm. The most beautiful beach of Lefkas no longer has a nude section.
The bridge you see on the left in the top photo, is now destroyed by the 2015 earthquake.
Recent reports
Ellomeni
A contributor who visited the island's eastern coast in September 2016 sent a report about a pebbly beach he found on the small peninsula south of Nydri. The beach is accessible by car via an unpaved road. Follow the road signs to Desimi beach, but turn left when the road starts to descend to Desimi.
Visiting this beach twice, my contributor shared it with two fellow nudists and a textile/topless couple. Even though this beach is not as spectacular as the beaches on the western coast, it may be a convenient option for travellers staying in the Nydri area, and it rewards its visitors with a beautiful view to Scorpios island.
Recent reports
June
Visited this beach quite easily in a Fiat Panda using direction from 2019. The road is on google maps, and can be tough going and you have to follow the map carefully to avoid going off course on better made roads. Clearly in rainy season there are streams running down it. Shortly before the beach, after two sets of solar panels in fields, there's a lovely car parking area good enough for 2 or 3 cars at 38°40'55.5"N+20°43'11.9"E
I wouldn't recommend going further unless you're in a good 4WD or ATV, but the walk down from here is only a few minutes.
I visited the beach about 9AM and it was deserted. This is the first time I've bene naked on a beach, so that was a plus. Very stony, but soft enough with a beach towel. Went for a swim, stones are easier to get in and out of the water than on the west coast.
Returned to my book, but shortly before 10AM a hire boat turned up. It was at the other end of the beach, and they stayed on board. I remained seated reading my book in the shade wondering whether I could go back in the water. Shortly after that two more boats turned up, so I decided to depart.
Returned about 5PM hoping the hire boats would be gone, but there was still one there with a large number of people on board (all wearing clothes). Eventually they left, so I went for a swim. Got a surprisingly long way out quite quickly so be careful.
After the sun dropped below the hill I packed up and walked back to the car. Having not seen any sign of anyone taking the path I decided that I didn't need to get dressed on the walk back, which had a nice wind and was very refreshing.