Kefalonia

The island has had a surge of popularity as a result of the book and film of "Captain Corelli's Mandolin". Ernle Bradford's Guide to the Greek Islands talks about an idyllic beach with orange sand. Other guides mention long, lonely stretches and 3 kilometre runs of sand.


If you are in the capital, Argostoli, for any reason, you should ask for directions to the Katavothres, which are on the extreme northern tip of the peninsula on which the town stands, about half an hour's walk. In this unlikely situation, surrounded on three sides by the Gulf, you will find a channel through which the seawater runs continually into a hole in the ground with sufficient force to drive a mill-wheel (installed first by the British) for more than a century…. Your problem is to explain why the hole has never yet filled up? [No prizes] It's believed that this phenomenon is globally unique.

This review starts in the south of the island at Skala and proceeds clockwise round the coast.


Spithi (near Skala)

See on Google maps

Spithi has for many years boasted an unofficial but de facto naturist beach a short walk from the main Skala town, screened by rocks from the main beach. Earlier attempts to close it down seem to have been abandoned in favour of common sense. Unfortunately this naturist beach is no longer easily accessible from Skala, the only way round the headland to the beach is to swim but alternative routes are available (see recent report for September 2017).

To reach the beach follow the "Spithi beach" signs on the road from Skala to Poros. You will find the signs 50 metres from the road beginning, right in Skala town:
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Drive till end of the road where you can find a small car-park or walk from Skala along the main Skala beach to the south (about 700m) until you see rocks on the beach:
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This is the main beach for the town with sand, sun loungers and pedalos. There are cafes and tavernas behind the beach. You need to pass the rocks, in some places you have to go into the 0.5m depth water. The naturist beach is beyond these rocks.

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This long beach is in the extreme south of Kefalonia. The sand is delightful and, like the water, clean. The waves are slight as the beach doesn't shelve at all steeply. Continuing westwards towards another headland the beach becomes a little shingly but is still naturist.

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Recent Reports

We visited Spithi beach in late September 2017. In August 2012 when we last had a holiday in Kefalonia it was accessible from Skala either by a moderately easy climb over the large rocks or by wading around them. There have been some further rockfalls since then which have made climbing over the rocks difficult. Waves and tide have caused much erosion and scoured away the sand and pebbles that once surrounded the rocks. Wading round from Skala is no longer possible but confident swimmers no doubt could manage it.

Contrary to some reports, at the time of writing, Spithi is still accessible from a dirt track that leads to some of the villas above the beach and thence by a footpath (38°03'45.6"N 20°47'29.4"E). Thanks to Patrick at Kefalonia Naturist Villas for providing advice on this route.

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It is also possible to walk along the shoreline from Mouda, a distance of about 600 metres (0.4 mile). The route is not too difficult although it does entail climbing over some small rocks and, near Cape Mouda for a short distance, the route is little more than a few footholds and a narrow ledge cut into steeply sloping sandstone.

Coastal erosion and rockfalls have somewhat changed the beach since we were there in 2012. Some sand has been lost from the beach and there is now a lot more seaweed on it (that may change with seasonal weather conditions).

As the saying goes "it's an ill wind" and the advantage of these changes is that the beach is now more secluded and perhaps even better for naturism. When we visited there was one other m/f couple and a single female baring all on the beach.

Separated by rocks, there are three longish stretches of gritty sand, some patches of soft sand and small pebbles which slope gently to the waterline. Beyond the waterline the seabed is mostly gradually shelving soft sand. Very easy to enter the water and when we visited it was beautifully warm and clear.

Mouda

See on Google maps

East of Katelios at the level of Ratzakli, are Kaminia and Potomakia which are collectively known as Mouda. As reported above there is a rocky outcrop south of Skala at Cape Mouda where naturists congregate and it is possible to scramble from Katelios to Skala along the beach.
Often people call this beach Mounda by misleading the Greek name Μουντα. the Greek letter nu (ν) followed by the letter tau (τ) provides the sound 'd' in roman letters so Μουντα must be translated as Mouda.

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It is also accessible a short drive from Skala: Take the road out towards Argostoli and after a short while, there is a sign for Mounda Beach on the left. Follow this past the Mounda Beach Hotel and then, just past the Marina Bay Hotel, park wherever you can and walk along the beach to the left. Eventually, (5 minutes or so) you will have left the textiles far enough behind to disrobe. (2005)

Barefooters who visited in July 2007 followed signs for the beach off the Ratzikli to Scala road. Headed down to the Hotel at the bottom, and before turning along the sea track toward Ratzikli/Katelios, they parked next to a small church. Plenty of space to park.

Sunbeds were immediately in front, and were often busy, but they headed south (left), keeping the sea on their right and headed toward the very southern tip of the Island. After about 800 metres the beach was fairly clear, and was generally only ever visited by other naturists. They settled at different spots all along this stretch. There was never anyone else within 50 metres, and a full mixture of "types": couples mainly, the odd single male, plus a full group of six people, 3 couples! Could be anything between 4 couples or 20 couples/singles depending on the day. They quite happily stayed from 10am until 9pm. It can get hot, so a brolly was useful. The sand was soft, and shelved slowly into the sea. No need for footwear either, as the sea bed was all sand. All in all, excellent.
(2017) In May Mounda beach had a few textiles near the hotel but beyond it there was no problem going nude and very few people going past. Those that were passing were almost always fellow naturists heading even further along the vast beach.

Kamina is a great shallow sandy beach that is popular with families and the beach is backed by new developments which threaten to spoil the area. Consequently there are also sunbeds and parasols here. A report from June 2008 confirms this report.

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Potomakia was the best spot for unabashed naturism (July 2001) and several couples were seen here evey day. These are either walkers from Skala or, like my contributor, from Katelios. The beach can be reached by road down from Ratzakli to Kaminia then walk east beyond the sunbeds. However there is a new hotel development that has gouged out a new road in the cliff and destroyed a large section of the sand dunes that back this beach. The best way to walk to Potomakia from Katelios is NOT along the road as it takes an hour and a half but along the beach.

Despite the fears surrounding police activities at nearby Skala, Potomakia had a steady stream of naturists in August 2003. This clean and pleasant beach with sand which gently shelves into warm shallow sea is excellent. The gentle, cooling sea breeze also makes it the perfect spot for sun-worshipping. In addition to my contributor and his partner, there were several families and numerous couples on the days they spent at Potomakia beach.

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Walking along the front at Katelios there is a clearly marked trail to the Turtle Beach over the headland. It's not for the fainthearted but reasonably easy for the experienced walker.

It should be noted that both Kaminia and Potomakia are nesting beaches for the Loggerhead Turtle and there is a local pressure group trying to halt the developments along this section of beach. Turtles used to nest at Skala but have been driven away by the developments there and locals whilst keen to enjoy the fruits of tourism are also anxious to conserve the Loggerhead Turtle. To that end illegal camping is discouraged and anyone doing so will be targeted by the Katelios Conservation Group, they also regularly patrol the beach to discourage beach barbecues and leaflet the sunbed users to educate them about the disturbance of the turtle nests. If parasols MUST be used only insert them into the beach near the water line. It is preferable not to use them at all. Also please take all litter away and knock down any sandcastles prior to leaving the beach. This beach has the potential as a great naturist site as by their very nature people who like to go nude do so because of their appreciation of the environment. If more naturists use this beach it may affect the development plans of hoteliers etc…

Recent reports

Visited in June, Mouda beach is 100% naturist if you walk 2 minutes to the LEFT, there were about 30-40 people there, mostly couples. You can walk to the end, there is a sand cove, very pretty, [a] few single men there. Water is clear, beautiful, shallow, it can get a bit windy. We loved the beach.

Three naturist villas

near mouda

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A quiet nap by the private pool

These three naturist villas are located near the naturist beach of Mouda, between the lively resort of Skala and the fishing village of Katelios, with very little distance between the two ([http://www.naturist-kefalonia.com]).
Built on a hill overlooking the village of Ratzakli, these new villas on one level are in a quiet setting on a large plot surrounded by gardens with flowers.
They are located 1400m from the great sandy beach of Kaminia with a nudist beach within walking distance, and have their own private pools.
It has an extraordinary view of the Ionian Sea, Mouda bay and Zakinthos island.
Each villa has a large terrace that surrounds the swimming pool with a magnificent view of the sea where you can enjoy the sun.
They are Perfect for couples, families or friends and ideal for beginners (great privacy) or experienced naturists.
A September 2017 report says: "on our arrival Patrick, the owner, greeted us and was very helpful throughout our stay. Patrick, who is French, modestly says his English isn’t very good but we had no problems whatsoever with communication and wish our French and/or Greek was half as good as his English!
"Villas Amphitrite and Thetis share a BBQ area which is ideal for socialising with your neighbours. BBQ supplies are available from the supermarkets and butcher in nearby Skala … The pre-prepared souvlakis from the butcher (see on Street View) are particularly good.
"An amazing place to stay which exceeded our expectations. Can thoroughly recommend."


Koroni

See on Google maps

This beach (first included in the Guide in June 2003) is delightful with very fine gold sand several metres into the sea. The first day my contributors visited there were only two other couples, both naked. Other people visited throughout the day but at maximum 8 couples, no taverna and on the first day no sunbeds. However we visited three days later and shock! horror! brand new sunbeds had appeared, but these were close to the entrance and walking past them there was plenty of room to be far away from them and again not many visitors but no doubt this may change as the beach gets to be known.

Getting to the beach involved driving over 2 miles (3km) on poor roads and dirt tracks. On Google Maps there appear to be multiple routes from the main road to the beach. Some routes may be shorter but are blocked or unsuitable for small cars!
There are no facilities on the beach but there is a taverna ¾ Mile (1.25km) from it, on the dirt track leading down 38°05'05.7"N 20°41'12.5"E See on Google maps.

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Recent reports

Access to the beach has been repaired (it was destroyed by the big storm of September 2016).
By cons this year no sunbeds for rent, the beach has become completely wild and mostly deserted (Obviously not in August).
October: Current local advice is that: Outside July and August Koroni is very quiet and being nude should be OK.
Access to the beach is at the right (north west) side of the beach. There was only one topless female on the beach when we arrived so we felt comfortable to be naked on the far (south east) side of the beach. During the afternoon 2 textile m/f couples, 2 single textile females and 2 naturist males arrived. Still plenty of space for everyone. However, later in the afternoon 2 male anglers arrived whilst I was swimming and headed straight to where my wife was alone. They set up their fishing gear just a few metres from her and with indifference to the hazards their hooks posed, cast several fishing lines close to where I was swimming! I returned and we left. Maybe we had taken their favourite spot but considering how empty the beach was it was disturbing, particularly since as soon as we left they moved on towards the rocks at the far end. All a bit of a pity really as had it not been for that we felt the beach was really nice.

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Paradisi (Sissi) beach

See on Google maps

To get to this beach it is necessary to drive from Lourdas toward Poros, and follow the signs for Theotoku Sissi monastery. There is a good asphalt road to the new Theotoku Sissi monastery. The road continues with a vehicle track right down to the beach, but is only traversable by 4x4, as a spring trickles into the track about two-thirds of the way down, and the surface is very unstable. A car can be left at the new monastery building Theotokou Mission. Even small cars, however, can drive about one third way down, till old Theotoku Sissi monastery - with care: the surface of the track is very poor. Those intending to walk down need to be aware that it is about 1 mile (1.5 km) each way: down is not too bad, but walking up in the heat is no joke. My contributor and his wife say they are very fit (gym several times a week) but they were sorely tried. But other contributors found the way not too difficult and even quite pleasant.

However, the beach is lovely: three sandy bays interconnected, with a freshwater spring piped out about 8' above the middle beach - what a lovely shower! We walked to the left and were the only couple on that beach all day; a naturist couple with two children came to the middle beach, and there was one more couple on the beach to the right. The monastery at the top is fairly new, and you pass the ruins of the old monastery on the way down (or up); very, very picturesque, and worth every bit of the effort to get there.

In June 2006 my reporters said there was only one more naturist couple, from Austria. Several small boats were passing the beach pretty close - one man tried to make a video of us (how pathetic) and the other couple from a boat so they put on their clothes for a few minutes.

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Barefoot reporters tell me that as of August 2007 it's still a quiet and nudist beach: when my reporters arrived, at 14.00 pm, there were 6-8 people, 100% nudist. After an hour, two families arrived: they were all textiles, but ignored us. So they continued to feel very comfortable there.

My correspondents also walked one evening to the beach below the Theotoku Sission Monastery 2.5 miles to the east of Lourdas beach. The monastery beach was deserted and the swimming good. Other reports from summer 2001 confirm that this beach is good for nudity and much of the time deserted.

The beach is fantastic and the flowers on the cliffs behind in May are extremely colourful. My contributor spent two idyllic days here with only two other couples on the beach. The sea can be rocky in places but use the centre section and it's pretty clear. This is the place to enjoy really quiet days of sheer naked joy!

Barefoot visitors in August 2007 found it 70-80% nudist and very comfortable.

Recent Reports

May: The "road" to the beach now has deep gaps across it half way down, caused by a stream so you wouldn't make it even in a 4x4. We managed the walk in about 30 minutes back up and we are moderately fit oldies but it was only about 25 degrees. You need to wear decent trainers, not flip-flops. The beach had 4 naturists one day and nobody on our second visit. It is a beautiful place with good sand and lovely backdrop.

October:We visited Sissia Beach at the beginning of October. A paved road leads to the new Sissia Monastery where there is plenty of parking space. From there a dirt track and path lead down past the ruins of the old monastery through pine trees to the beach.

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The walk is just under 1 mile (1.5km) and steep in places but very picturesque. The dirt track is in very poor condition and not passable by car.

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Apart from being steep, the walk is easy but take plenty of water and perhaps think carefully before attempting in very hot weather.
Sissia is a secluded, long, gritty sand and pebble beach … perfect for naturists. When we visited there were four other couples on the beach and plenty of space … appeared predominantly naturist.

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The seabed shelves moderately steeply and the pebbles get larger further out. Wet shoes are not essential but for comfort might be preferred … no noticeable currents … great for swimming!
There are no facilities on the beach but a natural freshwater spring provides a perfect shower.

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Lourdas-Trapezaki

Lourdas beach

See Lourdas on Google maps

Lourdas itself is a slowly developing resort, mostly based on self-catering apartments. On a steep hill so being fit or car hire is important. Highly recommended as a quiet place to stay and ideal to explore the rest of the island. It is towards the east end of a long stretch of beach, which used to be described in one section but is now taken in 3 bites: Lourdas, Kanali and Trapezaki. If there still remains any confusion, please do interchange the pics and text to the most appropriate arrangement!

My contributors last visited Lourdas in 1999, when the 300 yds of the east end of the beach were entirely naturist. Not so in July 2004: sunbeds reach right up to the end of the usable terrain. "Having chosen to stay at Lourdas because of the supposedly naturist beach, we were deeply disappointed - as (we assume) were the several other people who appeared to be looking for somewhere to take their clothes off". Nothing at Lourdas, but walk to the west (right of the beach) for 15 minutes, and you arrive on Kanali beach, where there are several really lovely sandy bays populated by naturists.

Recent Reports


We stayed at Lourdata from the end of September to early October. Lourdas, the local beach is a fairly unremarkable gritty sand and pebble beach and essentially is 100% textile. However, we noticed one solitary male naturist using the far left (east) end of the beach. Naturism is probably only possible on this beach out of high season. The sea front road, which is a bus route, runs almost to that end of the beach and, although at that time of the year it is very quiet we didn't feel comfortable enough to join him. In any event there are better and more suitable beaches nearby.

Kanali Beach

See Kanali on Google maps

If driving from Argostoli or Peratata, head for Afrato. Once in the village, drive past the 'Explore' commercial sign, and soon afterwards you will see a sign on the right to 'Kanali Beach'. Drive for around 600m where you can park your car at the top of the walk down the hillside to the beach. The walk down takes about 10 minutes, is occasionally steep or muddy, but very pleasant.
The alternative approach for this beach is from Lourdas. Drive downhill 2km to the tavernas at the bottom, turn right past the "blue sea" taverna, also past the car park. Drive to the end of the track approx 400 yards and park. After parking, look straight ahead to a gateway, which looks like it's a private house, but has in fact a taverna in the garden. Walk past the taverna and through the gate other side. Turn left to beach and down slight slope on to beach. The other way is along the beach but near lethal rocks, so the first way is recommended. Walk past the second rock outcrop to the nude area. But walk from Lourdas, not Trapezaki!

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Here there are several small sandy coves, up to 100m long, with several other naturists. There are a few straggling sunbeds - some used by naturists - the people who collect the fees do not seem to object at all. Kayaks are available for hire, and seemed only to be used by the naturists in July 2004. Lovely sandy beach, clear sea, attractive location with the mountains in the background - thoroughly recommended. May be overlooked by local farmers in fields behind and also a few walkers. It can get very hot so bring own shade.

In the second half of September 2010 this beach was still very good. The concrete construction in the middle of the beach and that can be seen on the photo (right), seemed to be the remains of a garden, maybe a former small beach bar. It looked deserted, although there was a working shower on the beach in front of it. Even the textile part of the beach lacked this luxury! Never too many people on the beach, not even at the weekends. Some walkers passing by, but not disturbing nor disturbed by the nude sunlovers. Highly recommended.

August 2013: walking from Lourdas toward Trapezaki (on the beach) for 10/15 minutes we arrived on a lovely beach which was mainly nudist and separated from Lourdas main beach by big rocks. The place was very quiet. Some textiles walking on the beach, but they did not bother us. Some of them tried nudism (not habitual nudists considering they were not tanned beneath their costumes).

An important thing: it's a site for the Caretta caretta's nest, so pay attention when putting the umbrella into the sand.

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Recent Reports

We visited the beach on two days in May. The first occasion we had it to ourselves. Two days later, we shared it with one other couple. In the afternoon a local man came to swim and walk his dog, but otherwise we were undisturbed. The beach is pretty clean, there are a couple of litter bins, and the locals make an effort to ensure the footpath down is accessible.

June: I was a bit surprised when you said walk down the slope 10 minutes and occasional muddy!? Park the car at the top and walk down the path, yes it was muddy as there is a fresh water coming down between the fields and sometimes there was water on footpath, nothing too bad. When you get down the concrete stairs to the beach, you have to walk to the left and pass the rock outcrop, that's where the naturist beach is. Don't stay by the stairs as we did and 20 minutes later 5 groups of textile families came down with kids. We figured out that we are minority and moved to the left end, behind the rock there were people there up to 20 people in total, it was quite busy we thought. It's a nice beach you can talk to people as you're very close to each other.

July: The beach is perfect only nudist people. The beach is the second after a group of rocks coming from Lourdata (the right hand), the best and easy way. The coordinates are: https://goo.gl/maps/PqGsoyErzc52

the end of September: A short walk from Lourdas along the foreshore. It is also accessible from a road (goat track), footpath and steps inland from the beach. This route is short but in places is steep. It can also be reached by walking from Trapezaki beach along the foreshore. Again not too difficult a route although the rocks are a little trickier to negotiate.
Kanali is a lovely secluded sand and white pebble beach. As might be expected, the beach has no facilities. Beyond the waterline the sea bed shelves gradually and is mostly soft sand. It is good for swimming and entering the water is easy. Wet shoes are not necessary, but as there are a few patches of pebbles, may be preferred or simply look for an entry point that is all sand.
There seems to be three sections of beach separated by rocks but it is unclear if the rightmost section is Kanali or Trapezaki. When we visited naturists were present on all three sections with the centre section being more popular and almost entirely naturist.

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Trapezaki Beach

See Trapezaki on Google maps

Trapezaki is joined to Lourdas beach to the east and the beaches have a combined length of about 2.5 miles. There are sunbeds on the easterly mile and a bit and on the western mile (Trapezaki itself) and both these areas were entirely textile. Naturist bathing is possible on the middle section (Kanali - an earlier correspondent described it as "heaven, all nude, good sand, clean water, gorgeous").

I'm grateful to Terry (see Terry Naturist Diary) for the story that follows and for the picture of Trapezaki beach. Terry and his companion visited in July 2000 and walked the entire length of the beach between Trapezaki and Lourdas. Except for a 200 metre section rather nearer to the latter than the former, it was entirely covered by sunbeds and umbrellas. By the end of the week even that virgin section had been filled in!! Unlike other resorts these were fairly well spaced out and priced at 2000 Dms (£4) per day. But it's not all bad news. Beginning at the Trapezaki end of the beach and walking towards Lourdas it soon became apparent that the odd nude couple were interspersed between the others along the whole length of the beach except for the parts nearer the tavernas at each extremity. Not only that, the man collecting the money for the umbrellas was as happy to take money from nudists as textiles. As he appears to be the only authority on the beach it is safe to assume that nudity is not a problem.

What was quite clear was that when going to the beach only the occasional couple were naked but on leaving they always seemed to have been joined by others!! On any given day nudity seemed to vary between about 10 and 20% of beach users. The beach although well used was never really busy with plenty of room and those sun umbrellas were spaced about 10 -15 yards apart.

My contributors used a 'bay' about halfway along the beach and on the first day were the only nudists there, by the end of the week we were up to half a dozen or so. As they were all leaving on the same weekend my contributor hoped that someone else maintains the tradition. The Captain does too.

The beach is of relatively clean sand although we did have a small amount of oil tar pollution coming ashore on one afternoon. The sea also appeared clean and clear with frequent dips a necessity for cooling the skin at short and regular intervals.

Contributors who visited in July 2001 parked at Trapezaki and set off east along the beach and settled in the third bay which was deserted but for one other naturist couple. As the first beach has stones that are tiring to walk over, it is better to take a path behind the taverna which leads down to the 2nd bay. At the end of that bay it is necessary to walk over rocks to reach the 3rd bay of gritty sand with rocks in the sea. They spent a quiet afternoon here and were fascinated to see a turtle swimming in the sea. At the end of the afternoon, a local shepherd drove his sheep from the hill behind them onto the beach and right past them. He seemed quite unperturbed by their lack of attire and gave them a friendly greeting. There were further bays beyond on the way to Lourdas; it would also be possible to approach from that direction too. There were folded beach umbrellas on our beach with no sign of usage but an indication that at the height of the season, this beach might become textile.

About half way along the village road at the top of the cliff there is a signpost for the "Lithero" taverna. There is a very steep track down to the taverna (we never risked driving down though others did). At the taverna walk west towards Trapezaki. The first section of this beach is textile/topless, but beyond the first set of rocks we found a quieter area where topless/nude bathing was acceptable. The beach is coarse sand or very small pebbles. There is a steep shelf to begin with in the water but it quickly becomes shallow again. My contributors spent a very enjoyable fortnight here in mixed textile/nude company without any problems (July 2002). This beach would have gotten a 100% rating if not for the difficult access. [This probably refers entirely to Kanali beach]

A 2003 correspondent also adds that when they were there, in June, they found it "uncrowded; usually around a dozen or so couples, mainly the older generation." Throughout the day a number of textiles do walk along the beach (on what is a pleasant beach walk from Trapazaki to Lourdas) but they certainly did not find this off-putting. In fact they found it pleasant to see that some young couples, after their all-too-apparent amazement at the scene, actually stripped off and joined the club. There were just a few sunbeds/sunbrollies well spread out along the beach (€7 for 2 beds +brolly).

Barefooters who visited in July 2007 enjoyed a couple of happy naked days on Trapezaki beach too. As others have said, you need to get yourself about halfway between the beach at Trapezaki, parking by the small fishing boats, and the Lourdas beaches. They felt that this beach did not provide the same sense of freedom found at Mounda.

A July 2007 visitor said this was a great beach, sandy & brilliant for swimming. No problems at all going nude, either from the locals or non-nude bathers. There were nudists along the beach for approx the next 1km.
A report from June 2009 confirms this report.


Vassaliki Naturist Club

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Vassaliki Naturist Club - Kefalonia's Premier Naturist Resort
See on Google maps

A popular addition to Kefalonia is the Vassaliki Naturist Resort. The 12-room resort offers a high quality of accommodation and service to the discerning naturist. It boasts a beautiful pool, hot tub and comfortable sun chairs over looking the beautiful bay. The pool bar offers a full range of hot and cold drinks as well a comprehensive range of snacks and meals. The resort has over the years become a popular holiday destination for the naturist, with many guests returning year after year. ([http://www.viglanatura.com])   Reports from visitors follow below. Day visits are available on request. 

Barefoot reporters had this to say about Vassaliki Naturist Club in Klismata (about 15 minutes drive from Avithos beach).  It's a wonderful place for a relaxing naturist holiday. There are 12 air-conditioned self-catering apartments, luxurious by general Greek accommodation standards, most with garden, mountain or sea views. Nearest textile beach is half a mile downhill, and nearest naturist beach Paleolinos. There is a pool, gardens, ample sunbeds, shady gazebos for sitting, a pool bar serving breakfast and lunch, and a dining area. It feels very remote and well off the  tourist trail  but is only 15 minutes drive both from the airport and from Argostoli, the capital. Shops are 4 minutes away by car (mini markets) and 10 minutes to 4 supermarkets, AB being the best, and near a petrol station. A car is essential; the roads are dreadful but you get used to them in a week. Mark and Samantha, the English hosts at Vassiliki, are welcoming but not intrusive; you can join in or be as independent as you like. They do weekly barbecue evenings onsite and meze evenings at local tavernas, and boat trips to remote beaches unreachable any other way, which are naturist once the harbour is left behind. They also have a masseuse who visits weekly, and an order service for take-away taverna meals. They will arrange car hire for you, and taxis to/from the airport, though we picked up our car there. Nudity is acceptable anywhere on the site and expected dawn to dusk, and during the evenings weather permitting; certainly in summer people only dressed to go out of the site!

There were mostly couples staying; we have a 12-year-old and she was never bored even though she was the only child on site for the 2 weeks. We've already booked 2 weeks next summer.  Highly recommended for discerning naturists who want to relax, chill, explore the locality, and enjoy!

Barefoot Reporters paid a visit to Vassaliki in August 2011. We took a look at some of the rooms, which were modern, clean and spacious and had nice views from the balconies. The pool and bar area looked just great, the atmosphere was relaxed and the hosts were very friendly (and prepared very tasty food too). The location is a bit remote, so we would recommend to hire a car if you stay here to get the most out of your stay on Kefalonia island. In our opinion this is a really nice naturist resort.


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Paleolinos - Avithos LEFT side

See on Google maps

The beach at Paliolinos car park is not naturist! Hence why the reporter below in 2011 was disappointed. You cannot access the naturist beach from Paliolinos car park either, you MUST go to Avithos.

Apparently this has been an accepted naturist beach for some years. From Avithos walk to the LEFT as you face the sea and walk along the sand for 10-15 minutes, past the sunbeds, and around a small outcrop of rocks. Between this and the next big rocky outcrop is Paleolinos, a small but lovely sandy beach. There are big rocks both on the sand and in the sea, though mostly it's a sandy bottom, quite gently shelving and great for swimming. The big boulders provide morning shade. You are not visible from the main Avithos beach nor from Klismata beach which is on the other side of the jumbled rocks at the far end. You used to be able to scramble over from Klismata beach (textile) to here but a recent rock fall in the winter of 2007-8 has made this very difficult.

The sand is lovely, and the water crystal-clear for swimming.

Barefoot reporters visited during August 2008. In the morning we sometimes had it to ourselves, with several couples and 2 or 3 singles arriving towards the middle of the day; reports are that it was never crowded even in the afternoons - and this was August! All naturist, and a mix of Greeks, Dutch, Italian and English people. Textiles do walk along from Avithos but generally turn back when they find themselves among naturists! One couple settled down near us and tried naturism, we suspect for the first time, obviously enjoying the experience.

Barefoot reporters visited Paleolinos beach in August 2011. When we arrived at the beach we were disappointed because it was full of Greek families and not even one naturist in sight. Coming from the car-park, we then decided to climb over some rocks which were on our left side (the rocks were easy to climb over, even with flipflops). This was a good decision. There were some small beaches here between the rocks, which we often had all to ourselves, but sometimes we had to share them with other naturists (which was fine by us).

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August 2013: the beach was very much narrowed by wave action. To reach this beach we had to turn around some big rocks in the water (not so easy due to rough sea). We found a very nice naturist couple and we shared the beach with them. When they left some single men arrived (3 during the day): they stripped off but seemed voyeurs to us as they kept staring at us and then left after realizing we were only interested in naked relaxing. A textile couple arrived with a boat and swam to the beach: they took a look at the beach and then left after a few minutes.

June 2017: the Avithos beach is amazing and naturist-friendly beach, we visited today and at 11am there was another couple. After us several single men came and hung around (about 5-6) but we did not mind. Textile couple in twenties came and stayed close by, the miss took the top off but her mister was too shy. Later another handful of naturists came, looked like German couple with Greek friend. Not long after they become very excited and enjoyed the beach as if they were there alone. We are not judgmental and did not bother us that much. During the day a few textiles walked past but not paid too much attention. The beach is clean and beautiful. Will go again while here. We returned to this beach few days later as it was the best. You can also drive to the Paleolinos car park and walk through some rocks to the right, it's closer then from Avithos side. Once again beautiful beach and people there, up to 10 in total.

Avithos /Avythos - RIGHT side

See on Google maps

10 mins north of Trapazaki, well signposted off the main coastal road is a delightfully long and sandy beach called Avithos, which reportedly has a busy/textile Northern end with two nice tavernas, but only five minutes walk up the beach is well spread out nude bathing/swimming. This is the closest naturist beach to Vassaliki Naturist Club who offer a minibus service to this beach for their guests.

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This is a lovely sandy, gently shelving beach, backed by cliffs about 30 minutes gentle walk from top end of Svoronata. There is parking at the end of the concrete road that leads to the beach where there are also 2 tavernas. Going down a slope on to the beach, there is a beach bar and sunbeds. Walk to the right, past a rocky point, through the second beach and the naturist beach is beach number three beyond the large rock.

Another account says that if you turn left when facing the water, this is Paliolinos as listed above, after the first rocks separating the nudist section from the main beach you come across a disappointing stretch rather rocky both in the water and on the beach. If one walks further along there is a sandy part but you need to be aware of the sharp rocks in the water in this sandy cove.

One contributor preferred the end of the bay to the right because he felt happier swimming there. Another (June 2003) describes this as a very gentle shelving beach into the sea with not many rocks. We were here for our last day and saw no other people until late on when a couple of single males walked past and on to the next bay and three females sunbathed (naked) at the other end of the beach near to the first set of rocks. In our opinion the best we found, clean, secluded and warm.

A report from June 2002 says there was only one taverna open, but the beach is wonderful.

It appears nudism is allowed at both ends of this beach but my reporters found the best to be to the right.

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Once you have parked at the tavernas, turn right and scramble over some rocks for 30m; there is another beach about 200m long with only a couple of people on it. Walk along this beach past an outcrop of rocks and you come to another 200m of glorious beach. During 10 visits over 2 weeks most people were nude, and on the busiest day there were only 12 people.

An alternative approach to this beach is to turn right at the hand painted sign that says Avithos Beach about 400 mts past the Go Kart track. After about 30mts go left and after another 30mts down a steep hill you will see a small area on the left where you can park. Go down the hill and on reaching the beach turn left and you will see the outcrop of rock previously described.

To drive there follow the road from Argostoli towards Skala. Drive through Svoronata and where the road bends sharp left go straight on. Follow this road for approximately 2 miles past the Go-Kart track and down to the beach. Get there early for a car-park space.

On reaching the beach, turn left and walk past the sunbeds to the rocky headland at the end of the beach. As on our previous visit, there were several naturist couples here, and it is a lovely setting. A good sandy beach, with clear water. Avoid going round the rocky headland: this is a rocky, uncomfortable beach with nowhere comfortable to sit or lie.

My contributors also tried the recommended beach to the right, and were very disappointed. With reference to the advice given to turn right at the hand-painted sign for Avithos, there is now an estate of new, expensive houses at the top of the beach track with nowhere to park. The track is not passable on foot or by car, as a stream has been diverted into it, making many yards of the track very deep in mud.
One 4x4 managed it, but little else. And really, the beach is not worth it: scrambling round the rocks from Avithos brings you to a good beach, but all textiles here; the beach around the next lot of rocks we found to be narrow and dirty, with a number of single nude men prowling around. We felt very uncomfortable and vulnerable - the only time in two weeks in Kefalonia, July 2004, and did not stay long.

However, Avithos itself is lovely, and the left hand end is thoroughly recommended. My contributors visited several times, and loved it.

August 2016: this track is now tarmac and easier to drive but be careful it is still very steep so some small-engined hire cars will struggle.

Recent Reports

Sept: visited every day for a week. 100% naturist at the far right beach. Max of 5 couples lovely swimming and no textiles walking along to have a look. Less wasps at this end (tried the left side; lots of wasps only lasted an hour then moved)

Minies beach

See on Google maps

This is not a known naturist beach so please be careful.

Beach located at the end of the airport runway. Very quiet in September. A few rocks at first but then fine sand and gently shelving. A few naturist couples but sometimes only my reporters. The locals tend to stay at the first part of the beach.


Xi-Kounopetra

The area is in the south of the Paliki peninsula (the one with Lixouri on it) in the district of Mantzavinata. In October 2017 Barefoot correspondents walked the entire shoreline from 38°09'19.8"N 20°24'18.2"E to 38°09'10.6"N 20°23'13.7"E. Based on that, this section of the guide has been reorganized and renamed (formerly Xi beach – Mania) putting the previously muddled beach descriptions into clockwise (east to west) order, adding beach names where known and updating information.

All the beaches are geologically similar insofar as they share the same dramatically contrasting orange sand and light grey clay cliffs. However, facilities, quality of the beach, height of cliffs, accessibility and most importantly, suitability for naturism varies.

Some doubt remains to exactly where some beaches start and finish so please amend if known to be incorrect.

WARNING: The clay cliffs along this stretch of coast are sculpted by the rain and become crumbly and unstable when dried by the Mediterranean sun. In places they have many cracks and large fissures. Rockfalls are common! Caution is urged particularly after heavy rainfall and when near the higher, more vertical cliffs.

Xi beach

See on Google maps

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2.5 miles (4km) south-southwest of Lixouri are three beaches, connected to each other, with the western one called Xi beach. Xi beach is NOT a naturist beach, it is a very busy tourist beach but, to the west, within walking distance or a short drive, there are several other beaches where it is possible to go naturist.

The first time my contributors visited they drove north from Argostoli round the coast, about an hour; the 2nd time they took the car on the ferry (crossing 25 minutes) to the peninsula from Argostoli to Lixouri, runs hourly, and then it was only a 10 minutes drive to Xi.

The hotel is right on the beach and there is a collection of loungers, sea scooter hire centre, taverna, etc, and hundreds of people. Going east along the orange sand (they got that detail right) the crowds thin out but you can see the next sun lounger, boat hire, taverna, etc with a steady procession of people walking up and down the foreshore.

The beach is backed by low grey clay cliffs and is, basically, a popular featureless long stretch of sand. It shelves gently with slippery flat rock offshore and limited snorkelling possibilities. It is a beach for families who like socialising on the sand. It is no place for idyllic or secluded nude sunbathing and swimming. Going nude is possible but hardly enjoyable.

Recent Reports

June: Xi Beach was very much narrowed and shortened in length by wave action. We saw a few topless ladies but no nudism whatsoever.

Koutala Beach

See on Google maps

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However, correspondents who visited in September 1999 walked to the end of the Xi beach going WEST (not east), then climbed over a little hill (there is a very narrow path) and discovered a wonderful beach, some 1000-1500 m long, under high cliffs (30-50 m) completely separated by that hill and the cliffs (see picture).

There is an unpaved road that leads to the beach. On the road from Mantzavinata to Kounopetra turn left at Lat=38.166496N Lon=20.400404E (no signs). You can park your car at the end of the road, right near the beach at Lat=38.154876N Lon=20.406075E.

They were the only human beings there and nude bathing and walking was ideal. The sand is orange, the water very clear. It seems unlikely that the beach is very crowded in high season, because from the busy resort of Xi it's accessible only by that narrow path over the little hill. Absolutely no signs of sunloungers, parasols, taverna or anything like that. Although textiles do use this beach, from reports over many years it seems naturism is well establised and accepted.

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The beach has dark orange sand, is very gently shelving, with a calm, warm sea and very safe (good for those who are not strong swimmers). When we visited, we walked to the western end (turn right on the beach). On my contributors' first time there, they were able to strip off at the end of the beach, backed by the cliff. However the beach was quite quiet as it was a windy day but to their delight we found that we were out of the wind here and the sea was calm. My correspondents were told by their local waiter that this is one beach which is always OK even on windy days. On our return the next week, they would not have felt comfortable on the main beach as there were more people so they walked on, round the next small bay which collects seaweed and then paddled round the rocky point (only about a foot deep) to the next bay - Probably Mania beach (see below)! Ed. Initially they had this bay to themselves, but they were later joined by a naturist man and his costumed partner. A local fisherman walked past to his boat and took no notice of them. They felt very relaxed there.

Recent Reports

October: Koutala remains excellent for naturism. It can also be reached from Mania beach. We parked at Mania See on Google maps but there was so much seaweed on the beach there that we decided to explore elsewhere. We clambered over the rocks to the left (east) and found another 0.3mile (0.5km) deserted stretch of soft orange sand See on Google maps. There was less seaweed in this cove so we stopped for a quick skinny dip. We decided to see what was beyond the next outcrop. A good decision, again the same sand but hardly any seaweed. The next ¼mile (0.4km) long beach, which we now know to be Koutala was also deserted. There was a small fishing boat anchored about 50m from the shore but the fisherman paid us no heed.

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The dry clay from the cliff can be mixed with water and painted onto the body. It is said to have beneficial properties though I found claims that it will make you look 20 years younger to be exaggerated. I tried painting one arm only and it still looks the same as the other. Perhaps I should have left it on longer :-)

We are unsure if the cove we crossed is part of Mania or Koutala but suspect it is probably the former as the second outcrop does seem to be a more distinct separator (please amend if you know otherwise).

Mania beach

See on Streetview

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To access Mania beach, head towards the Ionian Sea Hotel, not towards Xi, take a left ¼mile (0.4km) before you reach the hotel. You arrive at a small parking area on the cliff above the beach. Walk to the left to go closer to the point that divides Koutala and Mania, this end is naturist. Be aware there are often rock-falls from the cliff behind so be careful.

About 1.5km before Xi beach the road forks out to the left and right with signs all indicating 'Xi beach'. Take the right, park at the end of the road and walk right (when facing the sea) along the narrow beach towards the rocks. The first rock is easily walked round as it is shallow sea with sandy floor. Walking around the second rock is a bit tricky as again it is shallow water but part of it is rocky (rather huge pebbles). You are rewarded with a beautiful sandy beach - best part half way across.

Recent Reports

October: We visited Mania beach late afternoon at the beginning of October 2017. Access to the beach is easy by a paved road that ends at a small parking area immediately in front of the beach. Being in a slightly more remote and less developed part of the island, we found it completely empty so it was no problem being naked. Unfortunately, when we visited, there was a lot of seaweed on the beach so we decided to explore what lay beyond Mania in each direction.

To the right (west) you eventually reach a small rocky outcrop which is easy to walk around… well perhaps paddle if you mistime the waves! Beyond the rocks is Kounopetra beach.

To the left (east) is a rocky outcrop, not too difficult to scramble over, beyond which is Koutala beach.

Kounopetra beach

See on Google maps

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The western end of Kounopetra beach is easily reached by a paved road leading to a parking area at the taverna on the sea front see on street view. There are sunbeds at this end of the beach and it is overlooked by a few villas so in high season it can be expected to be 100% textile. Walk left (east) along the beach and even in high season, with discretion it may be possible to get naked. The cliffs are higher and more vertical at the eastern end so do heed the warnings about rockfalls. If you continue east passing a small rocky outcrop you will come to Mania beach.

The only thing that spoils this beach is the amount of seaweed!

Recent Reports

October: At the beginning of the month we walked to Kounopetra beach from Mania beach. It was deserted and the taverna and villas all appeared closed so being naked would probably not have been a problem anywhere on Kounopetra beach. However there was a lot of seaweed so we headed back east past Mania and beyond.

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Platia Ammos

See on Google maps

The stairs have now completely been destroyed so it is no longer possible to access this beach except by boat.
There are many stairs to the beach. It is not very comfortable to step down or UP, if the temperatures are over 30°. :-)

Barefoot reporters who were there in August 2007 found this the most naturist beach on the island. The beach was long enough to walk a discreet distance from the textiles, who tend to collect in the first half of the beach. It was, like many island beaches, busy with Greek families on Sundays, but during the week much fewer people, mostly naked.
In June 2009 on one day there were only 7 people on the whole beach. One Greek family wears clothes, the other people were nude. And a lot of beach for each of them.
In June 2010 during the week nude bathing was no problem, but we have been bothered by a voyeuristic single greek male.

June 2013: Platia Ammos had 3 nude ladies, a nude lady as part of 2 couples where I believe the other 3 had just dressed and us. A textile couple turned up later where the man had a great interest in the beach pebbles near the 2 nude ladies and us but, strangely enough, nowhere else on the beach. BE WARNED, the steps to the beach resemble the great wall of China and if you are in any way unfit, DO NOT attempt it. The beach is also very hard to walk on as it is all pebbles. This is however the best nude option by far.
August 2013: it's a little bit far from Argostoli (the ferry boat takes half an hour to get to Lixouri), the last part of the road is quite bad for motorbikes (but we have reached the top of the stairs). 280 steps. Textiles place themselves on the first part of the beach. A few minutes walking we placed ourselves and stripped off with no problems. Two more couples of naturists arrived and placed themselves on the last part of the beach. Three more young couples arrived but I think they were textiles trying (and obviously enjoying) nudism for the first time (only men stripped off; one girl topless). We spent a great day even if sea conditions were not so good and it was quite difficult to swim. 280 steps are challenging but (if you are fit) it is worth it!


Petani

See on Google maps

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Also on the peninsula is Petani beach on the west coast, about 20 minutes' drive from the ferry at Lixouri. Look out for the sign to Petania in Greek.

A very winding, steep road down to this beach which has a lovely setting with a backdrop of mountains. At the bottom of the road, turn right and park by the boats. A short walk North (turn right) takes you to a very quiet, pebbly beach with large boulders and rocks providing good privacy. Good for swimming and snorkelling.

The beach was mainly a mix of fine stones and pebbles although my contributors were able to find a sandy area towards the rear of the beach for more comfortable lazing. There were a few naturists situated at the southern end of this beach (turn left on reaching the beach). We were sufficiently away from the sunbeds and textiles to feel comfortable here. The sea here was very clear and calm but fairly quickly shelving. Jelly shoes recommended. This report dates from June 2001.

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A report from July 2004 says this is a really lovely beach: much nicer than Myrtos, although in a similar setting. Cross the ferry from Argostoli to Lixouri (€3.60 car, €1.20 passenger…get up to the top deck of the ferry - marvellous views across the Bay of Argostoli!) Turn left on arriving at the beach, walk about 150 yards past the sunloungers, and there are a reasonably large number of naturists with a few textiles scattered in between. Absolutely lovely! The weather at the time helped: glorious sun, warm sea - 95% - would be more if not for the narrow, winding roads.

Barefooters who visited in 2006 did not find it as idyllic as earlier reporters; although very scenic the beach is stony with little sand. My reporters established themselves in a small stony cove at the northern end and went nude. Others found it too crowded to be nude in August 2007.

Other Barefooters who visited Petani in June 2008 confirm that naturism is practised on the left side of the beach when facing the sea (confirmed in June 2010). They say snorkelling brilliant, but they advise getting there early as textiles use this area too and first there decides the order of the day. The beach has some shade most of the day due to the cliff behind. Take jelly shoes or similar as pebble beach.

Recent Reports

September: The road to Petani is paved and we didn’t find the drive too difficult. We just managed to squeeze into a space near the boats but parking is limited and probably difficult in July/August.

Two rocky outcrops divide Petani into three sections with an overall length of ½ mile (0.8km).

Beyond the left hand (south west) outcrop there is a small, very secluded cove See on Google maps. It is probably only accessible by boat … It may be possible to swim or wade there but the sea was rough so we didn’t attempt to reach it!

The large main beach is managed, has a blue flag and was 100% textile when we visited! There are a couple of tavernas at the centre of this section. As described above, if you walk to the left you can be far enough from the sunbeds for nudism to be possible. That said, no one was naked when we visited! In fact no one at all! That was probably for several reasons; at that end the sand gives way to increasingly larger, uncomfortable pebbles; during the afternoon it was in deep shade; more exposed to wind and waves on the day we visited.

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Wooden slipways on which stand several small fishing boats and the second rocky outcrop separate the right hand (north east) section of Petani.

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The right hand (north east) section of beach is sand and pebbles with scattered large rocks providing some privacy. Nudity seemed to be well accepted there, particularly the further you go towards the end of the beach See on Google maps. When we visited there were two other naturist couples (m/f & m/m) as well as several topless sunbathers. The only thing that detracted from that part of the beach was the seaweed drifting in the water, which reduced clarity, and on the beach where it seemed to stick to everything!

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Aghia Kiriaki

See on Google maps

After about 6 miles from Argostoli, the road forks left for Lixouri and right for Myrtos; follow the right fork and then turn left, following the sign for Aghia Kiriaki beach. The beach is a long strip of sand and shingle, divided into small and large coves, with a track running the length of the beach. Follow the road for about 1 1/2 miles down to the sea, then turn right onto the beach road.

Follow until about 400 yards from the end, where there is a snack bar and a number of people. Here the beach was deserted, and there was plenty of room to park the car beside the track. The beach appeared to be used mainly by the locals, but my contributors felt comfortable, although they were the only naturists. Pretty setting, but not a marvellous beach.

Recent Reports

September: The road to Aghia Kiriaki is paved to where it joins the seafront dirt track which is in reasonable condition and passable by car.

Kiriaki2.jpg

The narrow ¾ mile (1.2km) long beach runs eastwards from the harbour at Zola widening towards the right hand (eastern) end. We found the right hand end surprisingly busy for mid-September. Perhaps this was due to the snack bar and umbrellas at that end of the beach or maybe as it was a Sunday the locals go there en masse for a day out. Although there was plenty of space it most definitely was 100% textile and we didn't feel comfortable to strip off there. We headed back westwards where there were fewer people and so no problem being naked. At first we were the only naturists but the m/f couple next to us stripped off soon after we did.

Kiriaki1.jpg

The beach is mostly gritty sand which slopes gently into the sea so entering the water is easy. There was some seaweed on the beach though that may vary with seasonal weather conditions. The dirt track is busy and not screened from the beach which perhaps detracts from the beach's suitability for naturism. With more people arriving later in the afternoon via the dirt track we decided to move on to neighbouring Vouti Beach.

Vouti Beach

See on Google maps

Close to Aghia Kiriaki beach. In the village Zola follow the sign to the small but nice Vouti Beach. In low season (June 2010) it's a mostly quiet place where nude bathing is no problem - especially at the left side of the beach when facing the sea. It seems that in high season there is a beach bar at Vouti beach.

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Recent Reports

September: The 0.6 mile (1km) route from the village of Zola down to Vouti beach is partly paved, partly dirt track. In places it is narrow, steep and tightly winding but with care is passable in a normal car (bearing in mind insurance may not cover damage caused on unpaved roads). There is some parking at the taverna above the beach See on Google maps but finding a space might be difficult in high season. The taverna is good, reasonably priced and has superb views, particularly over the beach to the south east. A very picturesque location!

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The outcrop that the taverna sits on divides Vouti in two. To the right, the south east part has umbrellas and although fairly quiet, seemed predominantly textile. To the left the smaller north east section See on Google maps was empty so on our first visit we chose there and had no problem being naked.

The beach is pebbles and gritty sand. The pebbles get much larger beneath the waterline but it is still fairly easy to enter even without wet shoes. The water seemed markedly warmer than at the neighbouring Agia Kiriaki Beach where we had been earlier that day.

When were leaving we noticed a m/f couple emerging from over the rocks at the far left (north west) and realised there is a further tiny bit of beach there that is very secluded and no doubt perfect for naturism … if you get there first!

On our second visit to Vouti Beach we first went to Myrtos beach… Well you can't come to Kefalonia and not do so even if it is exclusively textile! It was rather breezy there and unsafe to swim (red flag flying) so middle afternoon we decided to move on to Vouti. This time we went to the furthest part to the right (south east), beyond the umbrellas and the rocks. At that end there is a secluded small area of beach See on Google maps which is small pebbles shelving fairly gently into the sea so it is easy to enter the water. This beach is far more sheltered than Myrtos so despite the breeze the waves were much smaller and we had no difficulty getting in for a swim. There was one other m/f naturist couple on that part of the beach and plenty of space for us all.

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Myrtos Beach

See on Google maps

Myrtos is one of the most famous, and frequently photographed, beaches in Greece. It is about three-quarters of the way north up the west side of Cephalonia. You turn off the road between Argostoli and Fiskardo at a well-marked junction and go downhill for about two to three kilometres using a tarred road with hairpin bends. It drops quite steeply downhill, becomes a track and then debouches onto the shingle beach with parking areas at the rear of the beach either side of a snack bar.

Featured on many a picture postcard, this scenic beach has a lovely setting of a mountain backdrop but is quite a drive from most holiday accommodation areas - the nearest about 10 kms away is Agia Efimia. From the main western coast road, it is signposted as 4 kms. The road is good but take it steadily, as it is steep and winding. Turn right (northwards) when reaching the white shingle beach, to join other naturists at the end of the bay. When my contributors visited (June 2001) there were 7 other naturist couples and it felt very comfortable. A report from July 2001 says that the northern end was uncrowded and 100% naturist.

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The beach is situated at the rear of a wide inlet backed by steeply sloping cliffs with piles of scree below them from which the almost white shingle comes. The beach shelves steeply so that large waves form. There have been people drowned here because of 8-feet-high waves crashing onto the shingle.

So flip flops or jelly shoes are a must. Parasols and sun loungers can be hired for around 3 euro per person.

The beach is 90% textile with nudism practised at the northern end where there are a few large rocks (turn right at the bottom of the road to park nearer the CO end). There are topless bathers elsewhere. At the southern end there is a cave but no easily reachable boulders. I dare say suited bathers wouldn't mind if you stripped off but it would not feel comfortable.

There is a beach bar in the middle of the beach that has been noisy in the past. Nearby there are some toilets and some showers (free) to rinse off after a hard day's lounging.

As the beach faces west it receives the sun virtually all day long and the sunsets can be stunning!. The surrounding cliffs provide shelter from the wind and it seems a good place for sunning oneself. The cliffs also prevent any gawkers from above.

One couple revisited Myrtos in July 2004, and walked to the right, where "we were the only naturists present. Felt very comfortable: the beach was very uncrowded, with the nearest textiles about 80 yards away. Very scenic, but beach very shingley: stony access to sea makes getting into the water difficult." (Getting out can be very difficult too when the waves pick up - be aware and stay safe! Ed.)

During 2005 reports indicate that naturists still occupy the North end of the beach, the noise, if any, from the Beach bar was never a problem and the showers on the beach were an absolute boon before rushing off to catch the flight home

Myrtos is mainly for people wearing swimming costumes and it's shingle, but even so, my contributors for 2005 gave it 8 out of 10.

A report from June 2005 speaks of the north end of the beach being occupied by a dozen or so couples enjoying the sun, very relaxed and comfortable. No noise from the bar and stunning sunsets.

Recent Reports

September: Yes, without any doubt, Myrtos is stunningly beautiful. The intense azure blue of the sea is incredible! However, it is a pebble beach and not particularly safe for swimming. The sea was very rough and the red flag flying when we visited. 100% textile and we didn’t feel comfortable to strip off anywhere on the beach! Because it is so scenic naturists will probably want to visit this beach even if, as we did, they move on elsewhere.

Dafnoudi Beach

See on Google maps

Go south from Fiskardo on the main road and in a couple of kilometres or less come to a turning to Dafnoudi Beach just before the village of Antipata Eristou. Follow the new road to within a few hundred metres of the end. Look for a sign DAFNOUDI on the right indicating the footpath to the beach. It is a lovely walk through the woodland, about 20 mins.

The inlet is about 30 metres across and medium-to-large shingle. There are no facilities. You may be visited by boats. Previous reports suggested that this beach may be suitable for nudism, but recent correspondents reported textiles only there, so they felt unable to strip off.

June 2013: Dafnoudi Beach was 100% textile and nudism would have been very uncomfortable. This was still the case in September 2016.


Kalamaki_beach.JPG

Kalamaki

See on Google maps

A small pebbly beach just 120 metres north west of Kimilia. Take the main road from Fiskardo to Antipata. After about 1.7 kilometres, leave the road to the right and follow the signs to Kimilia beach. Shortly before the beach, you'll find a small sign pointing to the left, leading you on a small trail to Kalamaki.

During several visits in September 2016, my contributor had this beach all to himself. Only once he was joined by two young men who did not hesitate to drop their pants, no tanlines indicating that they were fellow nudists.

Recent Reports

September: The path through the trees (sign posted in the picture above) isn’t well defined so it is easy to stray off the trodden route. Although not as easy as the path, Kalamaki beach can also be reached by swimming or scrambling over the rocky shoreline from Kimilia beach (see below).

The beach is tiny and not as picturesque as neighbouring Kimilia beach but it is more secluded so perhaps better for naturism. Unfortunately when we visited it was already occupied by a local textile couple. The woman persisted in loudly shouting instructions from the beach to her partner who was snorkeling so we decided to stay put on Kimilia!

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The beach is a mixture of small and large pebbles and some of the surrounding rocks are quite rough … beach shoes are essential!

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Kimilia

See on Google maps

A small beach in between Dafnoudi beach and Emblisi beach. The walk from Emblisi beach is no more than 15 minutes. There is no sign from Emblisi beach but you can see the path on the hill. Go left to the hill and pass through the forest. If you walk along the coast there is a nice space on the rock at the end of Emblisi beach. At Kimilia many young Greeks and tourists are there from the morning until the evening 100% with no clothes. The rock is easy to lay down on and easy to get to swim. Avoid in August - too many family and tourists.
Update for July 2011: tried to follow these instructions but no luck finding a beach after a 45 minute walk along the coast. It appears the instructions should say go to the road junction pointed on the linked map and walk north through the forest to find the beach.
However we did find another good spot by going to the left side of Emblisi beach through some bushes to a wire fence, this appears to block your path but it's simply a gate tied by a piece of rope. Walk for about 5 minutes on this path through the bushes and trees, with rocks down to the sea on your right. Once you spot a small rocky headland, leave the path and clamber down a few rocks to a very small pebbly beach. We had this to ourselves with occasional snorkelers coming from Emblisi and a couple of day boats from Fiskardo.
On a visit in September 2016, the hiking trail to Kimilia beach was well signposted from the main road. As a result, the beach became more popular and was crowded with textiles on every visit.

Recent Reports

September: Having spent most of the day in nearby Fiskardo we arrived late in the afternoon. As it says above, the beach is now well signed. The road down is paved half way and the rest is a good dirt track with a small parking area at the end. The short walk from there to the beach through Strawberry Trees (Arbutus unedo) with their cinnamon stick like bark and brightly coloured fruit is delightful. The fruit are edible though this is not recommended… The genus name '"unedo'" means "eat once only" owing to the unpleasant aftertaste! The Portuguese have the right idea and use them to make medronhos, a strong fruit spirit.

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When we arrived there was just one textile couple on the beach who were packing up to leave so we had the beach to ourselves. Not sure though whether nudism would be OK at busier times!

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The picturesque white pebble beach shelves gently below the waterline. Wet shoes are advisable for comfort. Arriving in the late afternoon we found the beach to be in shade but the crystal clear water was beautifully warm. Kalamaki beach is just a 100m swim to the left.

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around Fiskardo

There are a series of inlets most of which have small shingle beaches at their head. Most of them are hard to reach from unmapped tracks by unmapped trails so access by boat is the practical alternative.

Outboard-motor-driven boats can be hired in Fiskardo and from Agia Efimia for between 45 and 70 euro a day (depending on boat size and engine power), petrol extra. The service is available at 9:00 - 18:00. Don't forget the boats have to be returned by 18:00 each day! You do not need a special licence to use the boat.

All the beaches are shingle and the default for swimming and bathing is to wear costumes. But get there first or find a deserted one and clothes can become very optional indeed. None of the beaches have any facilities so you need to bring in food, drink and anything else you need (beach umbrella, swim mask and coolbox with ice is provided and is included in the boat price).

If you rent your boat in Agia Efimia you can sail to the north only.

There are three inlets to the west of Fiskardo. The western-most one, in the inlet to the west of the one with apartments going up on its eastern headland, is as good as any of the others. There may be spots of oil on the shingle. Some form of footwear is recommended as the shingle is large and it helps you avoid the prickly sea urchins. There is also a cave to explore and a rusty bike planted on a rock.

There are about ten inlets to the south of Fiskardo. The one past the island has the cleanest shingle, the clearest water, the least sea urchins and, for the adventurous, diving off the rocks at the side.

Sailing the boat with nothing on is great and if you find a nice deserted shingle beach the day becomes very nice indeed. The island has a chapel on it, unlocked when we were there, but landing is tricky. We found an inlet, a micro-inlet, on the Ithaca side of it.
Four out of ten for the beach, six out of ten for the boating…

Barefooters who visited in 2009 found several excellent beaches to the south of Fiscardo and had the beaches to themselves. No problem for naturism excepting other boats that sail from time to time along the coast.

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Antisamos

See on Google maps

Shooting some scenes here for the film 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin' has highlighted this lovely beach and also provided a tarmac road. In Sami, head for the harbour area. When my contributors visited, there was a large square road area in front of the harbour but they were starting to build a roundabout in the middle. Go to the far south-eastern corner of this square, (top right hand end looking towards the sea) and there is a small signpost for Antisamos. Go up this narrow residential road which takes a sharp right-hand turn, then at the T junction turn left and follow the road out of town, up over the hill and headland to drop down to beautiful Antisamos (about 4 kms, I would guess). On reaching the beach there is a track at the rear of the beach. Drive as far right (south) as you can go and park. You can either continue to walk south along the stony beach or take an unmade track running behind trees that front the beach. After a few minutes, where the track continues ahead and inland, there is a well-worn footpath forking left which goes down between the trees onto the naturist section of this beach. You MUST now follow the coast line as there has been a further rock fall just before the naturist section of the beach.

Some naturists settle here, others make the slightly tricky clamber over large rocks to the last small bay (see photo). Sea very clear but rocky so jellies recommended. The pebbles were a bit large to lie on all day without getting a bruised bum so bring a foam mat if you have one. Another rock fall means this is an even more difficult route but well worth it as it's now even quieter.

The main beach is made of large pebbles and stones. The beach is in a very nice and protected bay. The first part is completely textile, and there you can rent sunloungers and parasol. At the beach entrance there is also a small bar. The last part of the beach is very narrow with stones. This is the naturist section and there is enough room for plenty of space between sunbathers. At the very south of the beach (the last 100 m) separated from the rest by some big stones, there are very often nude people enjoying the sun and the sea. One correspondent gives this beach 8 out of 10, another 50%

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Another correspondent reports seeing only two naturist couples on the south of the beach on two visits. Beyond the stones it seemed to be 100% naturist, but…..this meant both of two couples were naturist and the stones were really very difficult to cross. Although it's a lovely beach, his opinion was that the shingle is very difficult to handle and for pure naturism, it leaves much to be desired. Sami, as a resort, however, is very laid back.

A report from September 2001 noted no naturists at all here. And a report from August 2004 remarked on good access (thanks to the Captain Corelli road) and very scenic, but not comfortable beach: very rocky, with stones varying between a golf ball and a rugby ball in size. We went to the far end of the beach, where there were two or three other naturist couples, and one or two textiles. Too uncomfortable to stay for more than 2-3 hours.

Recent Reports

September: We visited Antisamos twice. On both occasions, though few in number, there were only textiles when we arrived. On our second visit, although the last small cove 38°15'40.5"N 20°40'47.8"E was once again occupied, the section before it was empty so, with some discretion, we stripped off. That part of the beach is very narrow and there were occasional walkers passing by but they seemed unperturbed at having to pass close to us. That said, we didn’t feel entirely comfortable, partly because we were the only naturists but mainly because the pebbles are too large to sit on for very long!

The water was good for swimming but beyond the waterline the pebbles get even larger and some are slippery. This makes entering the water tricky and we did see a couple of sea urchins so wet shoes are essential.

Not the best naturist beach … Our advice would be get there early, head for the last small cove and set the trend for the day. Better still find a more suitable beach!

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