Kefalonia

The island has had a surge of popularity as a result of the book and film of "Captain Corelli's Mandolin". Ernle Bradford's Guide to the Greek Islands talks about an idyllic beach with orange sand. Other guides mention long, lonely stretches and 3 kilometre runs of sand.

katavothres01.jpg

If you are in the capital, Argostoli, for any reason, you must ask for directions to the Katavothres, which are on the extreme northern tip of the peninsula on which the town stands, about half an hour's walk. In this unlikely situation, surrounded on three sides by the Gulf, you will find a channel through which the Ionian sea runs continually into a hole in the ground with sufficient force to drive a mill-wheel installed first by the British… Your problem is to explain why the hole has never yet filled up? [No prizes] It's believed that this phenomenon is globally unique, so DON'T MISS IT.

Island links


For more information about Kefalonia try:
Kefalonia tourist guide This site includes a list of beaches filterable by naturism
Kefalonia Island and Tourist Guide
Kefalonia-based Katelios group, which looks after the interests of loggerhead turtles
Kefalonia tourism and accommodation guide
The naturism in Kefalonia island

.

Wonderful island; plenty of opportunities for nude swimming as too many reports proving. Only at Myrtos beach was unable to strip off (late June 2018). If you like a nude beach with many bathers, Lourdas and Mouda are perfect for you!
I disagree: at Myrtos you can still strip! (we did so on 2 occasions July 2018 - details below at beach description)

.

.

.

This review starts in the south of the island at Skala and proceeds clockwise round the coast.


Spithi (near Skala)

See on Google maps

Spithi has for many years boasted an unofficial but de facto naturist beach a short walk from the main Skala town, screened by rocks from the main beach. Earlier attempts to close it down seem to have been abandoned in favour of common sense. Unfortunately this naturist beach is no longer easily accessible from Skala, the only way round the headland to the beach is to swim but alternative routes are available. If you look on the Google Maps link, you will see that only the small bay close south of the rocky headland is labelled "Spithi Beach FKK" and south of that is the much larger Loutraki Paralia FKK but, so far as concerns The Captain, it is all one.

1. Motoring to Spithi beach
To reach the beach overland follow the "Spithi beach" signs on the main south-coast road from Skala. You will find the signs 50m from the road beginning, right in Skala town:

Spithi%20sign%201.jpg
Spithi%20sign%202.jpg

a) Just past Villa Anna Rosa, there is a sharp 90 degree right turn, at this point take the dirt road to the left, this heads towards the sea and then turns right parallel to the sea, it goes past several villas. There is a right turn back towards the main road, just after this the path seems to take a left turn towards some villas where there is a sign for a club (I believe Club Cosmo); at this point there is a spur which appears to be a dead end, so park. It is possible here to see a path across the fields. As you walk across it looks like you are heading towards a wire fence, the first time I went I thought it wasn't possible to go further. In fact the fence acts like a gate and you can open a section and go through (remember to close it). There is then a very obvious path down to the beach through a gully.
This comes out about the centre of Spithi beach - alternatively, further south:
b) Still accessible from a dirt track that leads to some of the villas above the beach and thence by a footpath (38°03'45.6"N 20°47'29.4"E). Thanks to Patrick at Kefalonia Naturist Villas for providing advice on this route.
Drive till end of the road where you can find a small car-park.

Spithi%201.jpg
Spithi%202.jpg

This long beach is in the extreme south of Kefalonia. The sand is delightful and, like the water, clean. The waves are slight as the beach doesn't shelve at all steeply. Continuing towards the next headland the beach becomes a little shingly but is still naturist.

2. Walking to Spithi Beach

Spithi%20rocks.jpg

Start from the main beach for the town with sand, sun loungers and pedalos. There are cafes and tavernas behind the beach. You need to pass the rocks, in some places you have to go into the 0.5m deep water. The naturist beach is beyond these rocks. It is a bit of a walk now from the town centre but an easy one - about 40 mins at a reasonable pace. In September 2018 the beach was covered with seaweed (see photos) and is much smaller than the photographs above. It is all but deserted, one family at the far end of the beach when I visited. Still a good beach to swim and relax as long as you don't mind the walk. The co-ordinates given under 1a) above were spot on and I have included a few photos to guide you further. Have Fun!!

approach_to_spithi1s.jpg approach_to_spithi2.JPG approach_to_spithi3.JPG approach_to_spithi4.JPG approach_to_spithi5.JPG

.

Recent reports

Spithi beach was still accessible in October via a narrow track at the end of a dirt road off the main Skala-Ratzakli road. There are no signposts other than at the very end of the dirt road, where motorists are warned that they are entering a dead end, without any facility for turning round. I found the “Footpath” app invaluable, but no doubt other navigational aids are available.
As you follow the narrow path through the tall canes, the sea is suddenly and excitingly revealed.
The beach was clearly beautiful once, with green hills coming right down to the shore. Alas, it now seems unloved and unkempt. The shingle beach slopes steeply at the waterline; and even when the sea is relatively calm, there is a strong undertow which pulls the ground from under your feet.
In two visits I didn't see anybody else on the beach and perhaps that's understandable. Hard to find, a long way from the road, an unfriendly sea; and Mounda so close by.

Mouda

See on Google maps

East of Katelios at the level of Ratzakli, are Kaminia and Potomakia which are collectively known as Mouda. As reported above there is a rocky outcrop south of Skala at Cape Mouda where naturists congregate and it is possible to scramble from Katelios to Skala along the beach.
Often people call this beach Mounda by misreading the Greek name Μουντα. the Greek letter nu (ν) followed by the letter tau (τ) provides the sound 'd' in roman letters so Μουντα must be translated as Mouda.

mounda.jpg

It is also accessible a short drive from Skala: Take the road out towards Argostoli and after a short while, there is a sign for Mounda Beach on the left. Follow this past the Mounda Beach Hotel and then, just past the Marina Bay Hotel, park wherever you can and walk along the beach to the left. Eventually, (5 minutes or so) you will have left the textiles far enough behind to disrobe. (2005)

Alternative access: park at the white container above the beach (see map) and go down directly to the beach. This is a shorter walk than from the parking lot, but I don't recommend it as the path is steep, so downwards is OK, but going uphill is very hard in the hot, soft sand. Go to the parking lot instead.

Barefooters who visited in July 2007 followed signs for the beach off the Ratzakli to Scala road. Headed down to the Hotel at the bottom, and before turning along the sea track toward Ratzakli/Katelios, they parked next to a small church. Plenty of space to park.

Sunbeds were immediately in front, and were often busy, but they headed south (left), keeping the sea on their right and headed toward the very southern tip of the Island. After about 400 metres the beach was fairly clear, and was generally only ever visited by other naturists. They settled at different spots all along this stretch. There was never anyone else within 50 metres, and a full mixture of "types": couples mainly, the odd single male, plus a full group of six people, 3 couples! Could be anything between 4 couples or 20 couples/singles depending on the day. They quite happily stayed from 10am until 9pm. It can get hot, so a brolly was useful. The sand was soft, and shelved slowly into the sea. No need for footwear either, as the sea bed was all sand. All in all, excellent.

Kaminia is a great shallow sandy beach that is popular with families and the beach is backed by new developments which threaten to spoil the area. Consequently there are also sunbeds and parasols here. A report from June 2008 confirms this report.

Kamina_Kefalonia1.jpg

Potomakia was the best spot for unabashed naturism (July 2001) and several couples were seen here evey day. These are either walkers from Skala or, like my contributor, from Katelios. The beach can be reached by road down from Ratzakli to Kaminia then walk east beyond the sunbeds. A new hotel development t has gouged out a new road in the cliff and destroyed a large section of the sand dunes that back this beach. The best way to walk to Potomakia from Katelios is NOT along the road as it takes an hour and a half but along the beach.

Despite the fears surrounding police activities at nearby Skala, Potomakia had a steady stream of naturists in August 2003. This clean and pleasant beach with sand which gently shelves into warm shallow sea is excellent. The gentle, cooling sea breeze also makes it the perfect spot for sun-worshipping. In addition to my contributor and his partner, there were several families and numerous couples on the days they spent at Potomakia beach.

Kamina_Kefalonia2.jpg

Walking along the front at Katelios there is a clearly marked trail to the Turtle Beach over the headland. It's not for the fainthearted but reasonably easy for the experienced walker.

capnbarefoot2.gif

It should be noted that both Kaminia and Potomakia are nesting beaches for the Loggerhead Turtle and there is a local pressure group trying to halt the developments along this section of beach. Turtles used to nest at Skala but have been driven away by the developments there and locals whilst keen to enjoy the fruits of tourism are also anxious to conserve the Loggerhead Turtle. To that end illegal camping is discouraged and anyone doing so will be targeted by the Katelios Conservation Group; they also regularly patrol the beach to discourage beach barbecues and leaflet the sunbed users to educate them about the disturbance of the turtle nests. If parasols MUST be used only insert them into the beach near the water line. It is preferable not to use them at all. Also please take all litter away and knock down any sandcastles prior to leaving the beach.

This beach has the potential as a great naturist site as, by their very nature, people who like to go nude do so because of their appreciation of the environment. If more naturists use this beach it may affect the development plans of hoteliers etc…

Recent reports

End of July, early August: Mouda is a perfect nudist beach. The nude section starts where the hotel fence ends, after that it's 100% nude, with only few topless women. On our both visits on the nudist part there were about 5-10 couples even 2 families with kids. Sometimes couples from the textile part came, undressed, swim for half an hour then went back. A few textiles strolled to the end of the beach, but no one cared about nudity. The water was super warm, the sand is excellent, couldn't be any better. Highly recommended.

September/October: The main road down to Mounda beach is very steep, but on foot we found it easier to use a footpath from a dirt road off the Skala-Ratzakli road.
The “Footpath” app shows two paths leading down to the southern part of the beach (the part with the prelapsarian dress code). In October 2022 there was a large, white shipping container at the top of the first of these and there was a small amount of parking space. However this path is murderously steep and has soft sand right to the top. We preferred the second path, about a hundred yards further on, going down beside a fenced field. Even this path is not without its tricky parts, but it is firm underfoot for much of the way down, and generally less steep.
Of Mounda beach itself, there is nothing we can add to other people's reports: peaceful, beautiful, idyllic.

Three naturist villas

near mouda

l101_81.jpg

These three naturist villas are located near the naturist beach of Mouda, between the lively resort of Skala and the fishing village of Katelios, with very little distance between the two ([http://www.naturist-kefalonia.com]).
Built on a hill overlooking the village of Ratzakli, these new villas on one level are in a quiet setting on a large plot surrounded by gardens with flowers.
They are located 1400m from the great sandy beach of Kaminia with a nudist beach within walking distance, and have their own private pools.
It has an extraordinary view of the Ionian Sea, Mouda bay and Zakinthos island.
Each villa has a large terrace that surrounds the swimming pool with a magnificent view of the sea where you can enjoy the sun.
They are Perfect for couples, families or friends and ideal for beginners (great privacy) or experienced naturists.
A September 2017 report says: "on our arrival Patrick, the owner, greeted us and was very helpful throughout our stay. Patrick, who is French, modestly says his English isn’t very good but we had no problems whatsoever with communication and wish our French and/or Greek was half as good as his English!
"Villas Amphitrite and Thetis share a BBQ area which is ideal for socialising with your neighbours.
"An amazing place to stay which exceeded our expectations. Can thoroughly recommend."
August 2018 Just returned from a lovely week here. Villa was excellent - the pictures on the website do not do it justice. Very relaxed. Was really nice not to have to worry about offending the neighbours. Exceeded our expectations and can definitely recommend.
July/August 2019 Our second visit and definitely still delightful. Excellent value for money. Well placed for beaches, Skala and Katelios.

nude_horsbord2.jpg
l103_1.jpg

Koroni

See on Google maps

2023 - Access to Koroni is available again. The Sesto Koroni Hill Bar remains closed.

This beach (first included in the Guide in June 2003) is delightful with very fine gold sand several metres into the sea. The first day my contributors visited there were only two other couples, both naked. Other people visited throughout the day but at maximum 8 couples, no taverna and on the first day no sunbeds. However we visited three days later and shock! horror! brand new sunbeds had appeared, but these were close to the entrance and walking past them there was plenty of room to be far away from them and again not many visitors but no doubt this may change as the beach gets to be known.

Getting to the beach involved driving over 2 miles (3km) on poor roads and dirt tracks. On Google Maps there appear to be multiple routes from the main road to the beach. Some routes may be shorter but are blocked or unsuitable for small cars!
There are no facilities on the beach but there is a taverna ¾ Mile (1.25km) from it, on the dirt track leading down 38°05'05.7"N 20°41'12.5"E See on Google maps.

Koroni3.jpg

Recent reports

Access to the beach has remained closed (see 2020)

Paradisi1.JPG

Paradisi (Sissi) beach

See on Google maps

To get to this beach it is necessary to drive from Lourdas toward Poros, and follow the signs for Theotoku Sissi monastery. There is a good asphalt road to the new Theotoku Sissi monastery. The road continues with a vehicle track right down to the beach, but is only traversable by 4x4, as a spring trickles into the track about two-thirds of the way down, and the surface is very unstable. A car can be left at the new monastery building Theotokou Mission. Even small cars, however, can drive about one third way down, till old Theotoku Sissi monastery - with care: the surface of the track is very poor. Those intending to walk down need to be aware that it is about 1 mile (1.5 km) each way: down is not too bad, but walking up in the heat is no joke. My contributor and his wife say they are very fit (gym several times a week) but they were sorely tried. But other contributors found the way not too difficult and even quite pleasant.

However, the beach is lovely: three sandy bays interconnected, with a freshwater spring piped out about 8' above the middle beach - what a lovely shower! We walked to the left and were the only couple on that beach all day; a naturist couple with two children came to the middle beach, and there was one more couple on the beach to the right. The monastery at the top is fairly new, and you pass the ruins of the old monastery on the way down (or up); very, very picturesque, and worth every bit of the effort to get there.

In June 2006 my reporters said there was only one more naturist couple, from Austria. Several small boats were passing the beach pretty close - one man tried to make a video of us (how pathetic) and the other couple from a boat so they put on their clothes for a few minutes.

Paradisi2.JPG

Barefoot reporters tell me that as of August 2007 it's still a quiet and nudist beach: when my reporters arrived, at 14.00 pm, there were 6-8 people, 100% nudist. After an hour, two families arrived: they were all textiles, but ignored us. So they continued to feel very comfortable there.

My correspondents also walked one evening to the beach below the Theotoku Sission Monastery 2.5 miles to the east of Lourdas beach. The monastery beach was deserted and the swimming good. Other reports from summer 2001 confirm that this beach is good for nudity and much of the time deserted.

The beach is fantastic and the flowers on the cliffs behind in May are extremely colourful. My contributor spent two idyllic days here with only two other couples on the beach. The sea can be rocky in places but use the centre section and it's pretty clear. This is the place to enjoy really quiet days of sheer naked joy!

Barefoot visitors in August 2007 found it 70-80% nudist and very comfortable.

Recent reports

Mid-October: It is possible to go down to the beach by car but this not only requires a reliable 4x4 but also good driving skills: there is a long and steep passage below the Old Monastery which is heavily worn out. The other passages, in contrast, are easy to handle, despite the trickle here and there. So better leave your car at the Old Monastery or two bends further down before the steep passage. The beach itself is rather natural but impressed us by far less than other visitors. The pros are the natural setting and the fresh-water shower (the true naturist, however, does not need such a thing), the cons the arduous access and that you need shoes in- and outside the water. In autumn the wind often causes a rough sea and high waves pounding the beach. I would not come for a second time, as there are better beaches for nudism. At our visit there were about four couples, half of them nude, half textile.

Lourdas to Trapezaki

Lourdas itself is a slowly developing resort, mostly based on self-catering apartments. On a steep hill so being fit or car hire is important. Highly recommended as a quiet place to stay and ideal to explore the rest of the island. It is towards the east end of a long stretch of beach, which used to be described in one section but is now taken in 3 bites: Lourdas, Kanali (east and west part) and Trapezaki. If there still remains any confusion, please do interchange the pics and text to the most appropriate arrangement!

Lourdas beach

See Lourdas on Google maps

My contributors last visited Lourdas in 1999, when the 300 yds of the east end of the beach were entirely naturist. Not so in July 2004: sunbeds reach right up to the end of the usable terrain. "Having chosen to stay at Lourdas because of the supposedly naturist beach, we were deeply disappointed - as (we assume) were the several other people who appeared to be looking for somewhere to take their clothes off". Nothing at Lourdas, but walk to the west (right of the beach) for 15 minutes, and you arrive on Kanali beach, where there are several really lovely sandy bays populated by naturists.

Recent reports


We stayed at Lourdata from the end of September to early October. Lourdas, the local beach is a fairly unremarkable gritty sand and pebble beach and essentially is 100% textile. However, we noticed one solitary male naturist using the far left (east) end of the beach. Naturism is probably only possible on this beach out of high season. The sea-front road, which is a bus route, runs almost to that end of the beach and, although at that time of the year it is very quiet we didn't feel comfortable enough to join him. In any event there are better and more suitable beaches nearby.

Kanali Beach

Kanali beach has two parts: the western part (see on Google maps) is accessible on a path from above. The eastern part (see on Google maps) which is more nudist, is easier to approach from Lourdas.

kanaw.png

West Kanali: If driving from Argostoli or Peratata, head for Afrato. Once in the village, drive past the 'Explore' commercial sign, and soon afterwards you will see a sign on the right to 'Kanali Beach'. Drive for around 600m where you can park your car at the top of the walk down the hillside to the beach.

If driving from Argostoli, along what we called the Lidl route, there is no obvious sign to Afrato. Instead we turned right off towards Trapezaki beach when the “In 400m” sign appeared. Follow the road down until you get to a crossroads, where the route to Kanali Beach is left over an immediate small stone bridge. Drive for a couple of kilometres along this route until you see the Kanali Beach sign on the right.
The walk down takes about 10 minutes, is occasionally steep or muddy, but very pleasant. This will take you to west Kanali.
This is beach is mixed or mostly textile in high season, but nudity is accepted at both ends.

East Kanali is easier to approach from Lourdas. Drive to Lordas town main beach, turn right facing the sea and drive to Lithero harbour (see map). There are 6 or so parking spaces, if full go back and park at the main beach. From the harbour walk to northwest through the beach with few straggling sunbeds - some used by naturists - the people who collect the fees do not seem to object at all. Kayaks are available for hire, and seemed only to be used by the naturists in July 2004. In 2022 the beach looked more like a textile beach but was too deserted to really tell. Lovely sandy beach, clear sea, attractive location with the mountains in the background - thoroughly recommended. May be overlooked by local farmers in fields behind and also a few walkers. It can get very hot so bring own shade.

Walking toward northwest there are big rocks (easy to pass through), after those it's nudist area, this is the eastern part of Kanali.

trapezaki-lourdes_beach.JPG

In the second half of September 2010 this beach was still very good. The concrete construction in the middle of the beach and that can be seen on the photo (right), seemed to be the remains of a garden, maybe a former small beach bar. It looked deserted, although there was a working shower on the beach in front of it. Even the textile part of the beach lacked this luxury! Never too many people on the beach, not even at the weekends. Some walkers passing by, but not disturbing nor disturbed by the nude sunlovers. Highly recommended.

67726E11-BC1B-4400-A4D1-BA0BBCE08327.png
barefoot.png

August 2013: walking from Lourdas toward Trapezaki (on the beach) for 10/15 minutes we arrived on a lovely beach which was mainly nudist and separated from Lourdas main beach by big rocks. The place was very quiet. Some textiles walking on the beach, but they did not bother us. Some of them tried nudism (not habitual nudists considering they were not tanned beneath their costumes).

An important thing: it's a site for the Caretta caretta's nest, so pay attention when putting your umbrella or windbreak into the sand.

Recent reports

End of July: We went on a weekday afternoon from Lourdata, an easy 5 minutes walk from Lithero restaurant. There are sunbeds on the beach before the rocks, but that beach was basically empty. (When we returned from Kanali (6:30 pm) there was an older naked couple on one of the sunbeds.)
After the first bigger rocks (east Kanali) it was unquestionably clothing optional area. About 80% of the people were nude, mostly couples, even a few families, about 30-40 people altogether. Some women were topless, and I saw a man in swim trunks while his girlfriend/wife was naked. There were a few textiles close to the big rock but no one really cared about who wears what. This time I didn't visit the east Kanali beach.

2nd visit a few days later on a Sunday afternoon: west Kanali was mainly textile with a few topless women and even fewer naked man on both ends of the beach. The east Kanali was basically the same as in my earlier report above (mostly nudist).

Wonderful sandy beach! Follow the sign to Kanali on the road and park the car just there (a space for no more than 10 cars). The path is about 500 m and isn't easy because goes down very fast!! So keep drinkable water for the return (I was back at the time of 8 min. but I am fit). The beach is textile, allmost all women were topless. Only the last 30 m. to the left facing the see occupated by nudists, they were there two nudist couples, a lonely woman and a lonely man when we where there. Because we where there at high season (August), it seems that the naked part of the beach can be larger on July or September. Go there!

Trapezaki2022.jpg

Trapezaki Beach

See Trapezaki on Google maps

Trapezaki is the westernmost in the chain of beaches starting from Lourdas.

West from the parking lot there are sunbeds and a beach bar, this area is fully textile. To the east you have to walk through some rocks to reach the main beach. The beach is really nice, mostly sandy with a few bigger rocks on the seabed which are rounded, so no seashoe necessary.

It is mainly a textile beach, but nudity is possible on the southeast end, close to Kanali. Even in high season (2022) there were topless women on that part and with some discretion nudity was possible. In low season the situation might be even better.
Going further southeast there stones that are tiring to walk over, but if you do, you will reach east Kanali beach (see reports above).

Recent reports

End of July: On a Sunday afternoon the whole length of the beach was textile. On the eastern end (before the rocks that separate Trapezaki from Kanali) there were a few topless women and their male partners in swiming trunks, but it looked like you could undress on that part without any problem (I was just walking through). It's possible that on a weekday the setting would be even more nudist.

Vassaliki Naturist Club

Vassaliki-Resort.jpg
Vassaliki Naturist Club - Kefalonia's Premier Naturist Resort
See on Google maps
flickr:28113073287

A popular addition to Kefalonia is the Vassaliki Naturist Resort. The 12-room resort offers a high quality of accommodation and service to the discerning naturist. It boasts a beautiful pool, hot tub and comfortable sun chairs over looking the beautiful bay. The pool bar offers a full range of hot and cold drinks as well a comprehensive range of snacks and meals. The resort has over the years become a popular holiday destination for the naturist, with many guests returning year after year. ([http://www.viglanatura.com])   Reports from visitors follow below. Day visits are available on request. 

Barefoot reporters had this to say about Vassaliki Naturist Club in Klismata (about 15 minutes drive from Avithos beach).  It's a wonderful place for a relaxing naturist holiday. There are 12 air-conditioned self-catering apartments, luxurious by general Greek accommodation standards, most with garden, mountain or sea views. Nearest textile beach is half a mile downhill, and nearest naturist beach Paleolinos. There is a pool, gardens, ample sunbeds, shady gazebos for sitting, a pool bar serving breakfast and lunch, and a dining area. It feels very remote and well off the  tourist trail  but is only 15 minutes drive both from the airport and from Argostoli, the capital. Shops are 4 minutes away by car (mini markets) and 10 minutes to 4 supermarkets, AB being the best, and near a petrol station. A car is essential; the roads are dreadful but you get used to them in a week. Mark and Samantha, the English hosts at Vassiliki, are welcoming but not intrusive; you can join in or be as independent as you like. They do weekly barbecue evenings onsite and meze evenings at local tavernas, and boat trips to remote beaches unreachable any other way, which are naturist once the harbour is left behind. They also have a masseuse who visits weekly, and an order service for take-away taverna meals. They will arrange car hire for you, and taxis to/from the airport, though we picked up our car there. Nudity is acceptable anywhere on the site and expected dawn to dusk, and during the evenings weather permitting; certainly in summer people only dressed to go out of the site!

flickr:29179458728


There were mostly couples staying; we have a 12-year-old and she was never bored even though she was the only child on site for the 2 weeks. We've already booked 2 weeks next summer.  Highly recommended for discerning naturists who want to relax, chill, explore the locality, and enjoy!

Recent reports

May: We stayed at Vassaliki for a week. It’s fabulous! Not the cheapest option on the island, but the quality justifies the price.

The property is hugely attractive and impeccably maintained, the hosts are friendly, kind and accommodating, there is a wide range of optional activities, and there is just an overwhelmingly happy vibe to the place. It’s quite possible to be naked for your whole stay, or to cover up if/when you prefer – no-one judges. The on-site catering is excellent. The cocktails are imaginative. And – from parasols you can borrow to visit the beach, to a plastics reduction programme, to pre-ordered groceries on arrival – it’s hard to imagine any detail they haven’t already thought of.

The only slight downside – beyond the owners’ control – is that, being small, there is no anonymity, which makes everyone a target should any crashing bores arrive. But we’ll take that; the many positives more than compensate.

Vassaliki is well placed for the airport, Argostoli and Avithos… if you have a car. (If you don’t want a car for the whole time, Samantha & Mark will organise one for when you do.) Many of the local restaurants offer free wine or deserts unprompted if you plonk your room key on the table.

It all adds up to an example that deserves to be copied widely.

Paliolinos

See on Google maps

paleolinos01.jpg

Previously entries in this guide included muddled information for beaches at Paliolinos and Avithos. Barefoot correspondents visited this area in May 2018 and, based on local signposts, have re-written this section, separating out the two, very different beaches.

It is possible to get between Paliolinos and Avithos beaches along the foreshore but the climb over the rocks is arduous. In the section on Avithos left side (see below) it is reported that this is as a result of a rock fall in winter 2007-8. Recent satellite imagery on Google Maps suggests that as much as 200m of cliff or more may have collapsed onto the beach. However, without earlier satellite imagery for comparison this is just speculation and it is also unclear if this happened in a single event or whether it occurred over a much longer period of time. What seems certain is that there has been significant topographical changes as a result of which Paliolinos beach was probably shortened at the western end. The obstruction created by the rock fall may have been seen as defining a new demarcation point between Paliolinos and Avithios which possibly was previously regarded to be the rock outcrop at 38°05'57.8"N 20°32'33.2"E. If this is correct it may explain why there is now some confusion over the start and finish point of each beach. All a bit unclear really so if anyone has more detailed local knowledge please amend.

paleolinos02.jpg

The main, central beach at Paliolinos is small and the area behind the beach is given over to a limited amount of car parking, canopies and picnic tables. Aside from these structures there are no facilities other than a shower. As it is overlooked by the picnic area, the main beach is unsuitable for naturists but there are several small/tiny beaches on either side where, out of high season and with discretion, nudism is possible.

The foreshore at Paliolinos is very rocky with ugly concrete structures surrounding the main beach. The main beach was previously sand (see October 2017 report below) and pebble but during the 2017/18 winter all the sand has been scoured away. In 2018 all beaches are now pebbles, some quite large and uncomfortable to walk and sit on however there are a few tiny patches of gritty sand. The pebbles extend out beyond the waterline. It shelves gently and just a little further out some of the seabed is nice soft sand. The large pebbles make entering the water difficult so beach shoes are advisable.

paleolinos03.jpg

Recent reports

Early August: Still no change, no sand.
Paliolinos2022.jpg

Paleolinos_Kefalonia.jpg

Avithos LEFT (SE) side

See on Google maps

Apparently this has been an accepted naturist beach for some years. From Avithos walk to the LEFT as you face the sea and walk along the sand for 10-15 minutes, past the sunbeds, and around a small outcrop of rocks. Between this and the next big rocky outcrop is a small but lovely sandy beach. There are big rocks both on the sand and in the sea, though mostly it's a sandy bottom, quite gently shelving and great for swimming. The big boulders provide morning shade. You are not visible from the main Avithos beach nor from Paliolinos beach which is on the other side of the jumbled rocks at the far end. You used to be able to scramble over from Paliolinos beach (textile) to here but a rock fall in the winter of 2007-8 has made this very difficult.

The sand is lovely, and the water crystal-clear for swimming. The islet, right, is Dionisi, and that's a rock to the right of it.

Paleolinos.JPG

Recent reports

Early August: The beach after the rocks (see map) now has less sand than before. Only a smaller part right at the rocks has sand and even there the seabed is full of large stones, not easy to enter the water (see pic).

AvithosSE_2022.jpg

However the textile part before the rocks was empty from about halfway. If you go all the way to the end (see map) it was far enough from the crowd to be able to undress and that part of the beach still had some sand. The only problem might be the great number of textiles walking to the rocks, I saw someone walking there every 5-10 minutes, so it's not for the shyest. This was in high season, so a month later or earlier it might be better.

.

.

.

.

AvithosKefalonia.jpg

Avythos RIGHT (NW) side

See on Google maps (AKA Megalipetra Beach on various tourist guides and maps… Very apt, meaning "big rock" in Greek)

10 mins north of Trapazaki, well signposted off the main coastal road is a delightfully long and sandy beach called Avithos, which reportedly has a busy/textile Northern end with two nice tavernas, but only five minutes walk up the beach is well-spread-out nude bathing/swimming. This is the closest naturist beach to Vassaliki Naturist Club who offer a minibus service to this beach for their guests.

This is a lovely sandy, gently shelving beach, backed by cliffs about 30 minutes gentle walk from top end of Svoronata. There is parking at the end of the concrete road that leads to the beach where there are also 2 tavernas. Going down a slope on to the beach, there is a beach bar and sunbeds. Walk to the right, past a rocky point, through the second beach and the naturist beach is beach number three beyond the large [white] rock.

Another account says that after the first rocks separating the nudist section from the main beach you come across a disappointing stretch, rather rocky both in the water and on the beach. If one walks further along there is a sandy part but you need to be aware of the sharp rocks in the water in this sandy cove.

One contributor preferred the end of the bay to the right because he felt happier swimming there. Another describes this as a very gentle shelving beach into the sea with not many rocks. In our opinion the best we found, clean, secluded and warm.

It appears nudism is allowed at both ends of this beach but my reporters found the best to be to the right.

avithos_beach.JPG

Once you have parked at the tavernas, turn right and scramble over some rocks for 30m; there is another beach about 200m long with only a couple of people on it. Walk along this beach past an outcrop of rocks and you come to another 200m of glorious beach. During 10 visits over 2 weeks most people were nude, and on the busiest day there were only 12 people.

To drive there follow the road from Argostoli towards Skala. Drive through Svoronata and where the road bends sharp left go straight on. Follow this road for approximately 2 miles past the Go-Kart track and down to the beach. Get there early for a car-park space.

On reaching the beach, turn left and walk past the sunbeds to the rocky headland at the end of the beach. As on our previous visit, there were several naturist couples here, and it is a lovely setting. A good sandy beach, with clear water. Avoid going round the rocky headland: this is a rocky, uncomfortable beach with nowhere comfortable to sit or lie.

My contributors also tried the recommended beach to the right, and were very disappointed. With reference to the advice given to turn right at the hand-painted sign for Avithos, there is now an estate of new, expensive houses at the top of the beach track with nowhere to park. The track is not passable on foot or by car, as a stream has been diverted into it, making many yards of the track very deep in mud.

However, Avithos itself is lovely, and the left-hand end is thoroughly recommended. My contributors visited several times, and loved it.

Recent reports

Mid October: To go there from the parking at the Taverna along the beach was more or less impossible due to the rocks there. There is another access to this beach further west: coming from Svoronata do not turn left and pass the Sarris Winery but go straight ahead and take the gravel road branching off to the left after some 30 m. There is a no entry sign where you can park your car or you drive down for some 20 m to use the open ground to the left (steep access). From here a short walk leads down to the beach.

Minies beach

See on Google maps

This is not a known naturist beach so please be careful.

Beach located at the end of the airport runway. Very quiet in September. A few rocks at first but then fine sand and gently shelving. A few naturist couples but sometimes only my reporters. The locals tend to stay at the first part of the beach.

Recent reports

End of September: In the first week of our holiday we stayed in Avithos and then moved on to Ratzakli. On changeover day we had a few hours spare before check-in so decided to go to Argostoli. En-route we stopped at Minies to explore and, being a hot day, hoped we might be able to cool off with a quick skinny dip. Minies is in fact the name of a small village close to the airport rather than any particular beach and there are in fact three beaches nearby that are known as Minies Beach. Seperately they are; Eglina Beach, Megali Ammos Beach and Spasmata Beach.

We parked close to the most southerly, Eglina Beach which is only 100m wide, sandy and very busy with a beach bar, sunbeds and umbrellas. It was clearly 100% textile so we walked round to Megali Ammos, just 100m north.

megali_ammos01.jpg

There is a small harbour at the southern end of Megali Ammos beach. There was nobody about either at the harbour or at that end of the beach and it may have been possible to strip off. However, it is not secluded and there was a lot of seaweed both on the beach and in the water so it was not at all appealing!

megali_ammos02.jpg

Megali Ammos Beach is sandy and about 0.5km long. The northern half of the beach has beach bars, sunbeds and umbrellas and was 100% textile. The beach becomes rocky at the northern end but there are a few tiny, secluded areas of sand below the low cliffs at that end where it may be possible to strip off. However, being so close to the busy textile area we did not feel comfortable to do so and we continued our walk a further 100m along the road past the end of the runway to Spasmata Beach.

Spasmata Beach is also sandy and at about 0.7km is the longest of the beaches. We walked a short way along the beach and it too was very busy and seemed to be 100% textile. From a distance it appeared that the far northern end was not as busy and may provide an opportunity for nudism. However, time was getting on and we decided to forego our skinny dip, turn back and continue our journey to Argostoli. We later learnt from a local that the far northern end is indeed used by naturists and probably the part referred to in the above report.

We found all three beaches busy for the time of year but in part this was probably because it was a Sunday when locals like to spend a family day on the beach. Further investigation and feedback would be useful, particularly in respect of the northernmost end of Spasmata Beach which we did not explore.

galaxy01.JPG

Galaxy Beach

See on Google maps

In September 2019 Barefoot correspondents came across this beach by chance whilst en-route to Katovothres. Whilst following their route on Google Maps they noticed a pin for “Galaxy Beach FKK” and decided to stop and explore. The origins of the pin and the name “Galaxy” are uncertain and as the area is popular with walkers some caution is advisable. However, out of high season our correspondents confirmed nudism was possible.

Galaxy Beach is easy to get to and lies just 200m off the main road 2km north of Lassi. Access is by a dirt track which is very rough in places and not ideal for ordinary cars although some do venture along it. There is plenty of parking at the end of the track amongst the trees. Further details of the trail to Galaxy Beach, including downloadable GPS data and photos taken from waypoints along it, can be found on Wikiloc click here

galaxy02.jpg

It is a very picturesque location set amongst pine trees. The foreshore is rugged and in addition to the cove marked by the pin on Google Maps there are further small rocky inlets, a couple of which also have tiny, white pebble beaches.

Less than 100m south of the marked point there is also a tiny sandy cove with an interesting archway through to the sea.
Low overhanging cliffs provide a limited amount of seclusion but the proximity of pathways through the woodland should be considered.

Although not essential, given the rocks are rather jagged and the pebbles, though small, can be uncomfortable to walk on, beach shoes are advisable. The water was crystal clear when our correspondents visited and the sea was much flatter than just a few kilometres along the coast. Great for swimming and snorkelling!

Given the popularity of the area with walkers and the proximity to Liminaki Hotel and beach to the north, it seems doubtful that naturism would be possible in high season so further investigation and reports would be welcome.

galaxy03.JPG galaxy04.JPG

Recent reports

September: When we visited there was one single male naturist using a parasol for a little extra privacy whilst fishing from the rocks. A few walkers passed by and didn't seem bothered. We spoke with a couple from Norway who said they had walked the pathway, which for much of the way runs close to the shoreline, all the way from Argostoli. They said it was a beautiful and easy (although clearly very long) walk. We decided to scramble down to the largest of the beaches which we had to ourselves and enjoyed a cooling skinny dip on a lovely warm afternoon.

galaxy05.JPG

October: Visited for the second time and again no problem being naked. We had the first tiny cove to ouselves. At first the sea was almost flat and the water crystal clear and great for swimming. Lots of fish to see! The wind picked up a little during the afternoon and changed to being onshore so a little choppy but still OK.


Xi to Kounopetra

The area is in the south of the Paliki peninsula (the one with Lixouri on it) in the district of Mantzavinata. In October 2017 Barefoot correspondents walked the entire shoreline from 38°09'19.8"N 20°24'18.2"E to 38°09'10.6"N 20°23'13.7"E. Based on that, this section of the guide has been reorganized and renamed (formerly Xi beach – Mania) putting the previously muddled beach descriptions into clockwise (east to west) order, adding beach names where known and updating information.

All the beaches are geologically similar insofar as they share the same dramatically contrasting orange sand and light grey clay cliffs. However, facilities, quality of the beach, height of cliffs, accessibility and most importantly, suitability for naturism vary.

Some doubt remains to exactly where some beaches start and finish so please amend if known to be incorrect.

WARNING: The clay cliffs along this stretch of coast are sculpted by the rain and become crumbly and unstable when dried by the Mediterranean sun. In places they have many cracks and large fissures. Rockfalls are common! Caution is urged particularly after heavy rainfall and when near the higher, more vertical cliffs.

Xi beach

See on Google maps

XiMain.JPG

2.5 miles (4km) south-southwest of Lixouri are three beaches, connected to each other, with the western one called Xi beach. Xi beach is NOT a naturist beach, it is a very busy tourist beach but, to the west, within walking distance or a short drive, there are several other beaches where it is possible to go naturist.

The first time my contributors visited they drove north from Argostoli round the coast, about an hour; the 2nd time they took the car on the ferry (crossing 25 minutes) to the peninsula from Argostoli to Lixouri, runs hourly, and then it was only a 10 minutes drive to Xi.

The hotel is right on the beach and there is a collection of loungers, sea scooter hire centre, taverna, etc, and hundreds of people. Going east along the orange sand (they got that detail right) the crowds thin out but you can see the next sun lounger, boat hire, taverna, etc with a steady procession of people walking up and down the foreshore.

The beach is backed by low grey clay cliffs and is, basically, a popular featureless long stretch of sand. It shelves gently with slippery flat rock offshore and limited snorkelling possibilities. It is a beach for families who like socialising on the sand. It is no place for idyllic or secluded nude sunbathing and swimming. Going nude is possible but hardly enjoyable.

Recent reports

July: A couple who visited found it quite relaxed in a clothing-optional area of the beach. Take the right hand fork signed to Xi (so is the left!) and park at the end of the road by the taverna (see on Streetview). Walk to the right past the sunloungers, after a few hundred yards there is an area below tall cliffs; these are unstable, and there are many recent rockfalls, so walk past here to the area where the cliffs are lower. This is a pleasant stretch of sand, where there were three naturist groups. About mid-afternoon, the naturists were joined by about half a dozen textiles, none of whom showed any sign of objection. There are a few pebbles at the edge of the sea, which is very shallow for quite a long way out. Very pleasant: if you rub the red sand all over your body, it is supposed to make you 20 years younger!

Koutala Beach

See on Google maps

NearXi.JPG

However, correspondents who visited in September 1999 walked to the end of the Xi beach going WEST (not east), then climbed over a little hill (there is a very narrow path) and discovered a wonderful beach, some 1000-1500 m long, under high cliffs (30-50 m) completely separated by that hill and the cliffs (see picture).

There is an unpaved road that leads to the beach. On the road from Mantzavinata to Kounopetra turn left at Lat=38.166496N Lon=20.400404E (no signs). You can park your car at the end of the road, right near the beach at Lat=38.154876N Lon=20.406075E. You need to walk about 150m on a dirt path to arrive at the beach (see map). There is only a very short steep section, but even that is easy to pass for a kid in flip-flops.

They were the only human beings there and nude bathing and walking was ideal. The sand is orange, the water very clear. It seems unlikely that the beach is very crowded in high season, because from the busy resort of Xi it's accessible only by that narrow path over the little hill. Absolutely no signs of sunloungers, parasols, taverna or anything like that. Although textiles do use this beach, from reports over many years it seems naturism is well establised and accepted. The only reported downside is that the sea is too shallow, you have to go a long way out for a swim!

Xi.JPG

The beach has dark orange sand, is very gently shelving, with a calm, warm sea and very safe (good for those who are not strong swimmers). When we visited, we walked to the western end (turn right on the beach). On my contributors' first time there, they were able to strip off at the end of the beach, backed by the cliff. However the beach was quite quiet as it was a windy day but to their delight we found that we were out of the wind here and the sea was calm. My correspondents were told by their local waiter that this is one beach which is always OK even on windy days. On our return the next week, they would not have felt comfortable on the main beach as there were more people so they walked on, round the next small bay which collects seaweed and then paddled round the rocky point (only about a foot deep) to the next bay - Probably Mania beach (see below)! Ed. Initially they had this bay to themselves, but they were later joined by a naturist man and his costumed partner. A local fisherman walked past to his boat and took no notice of them. They felt very relaxed there.

Recent reports

Koutala%20Beach%202.jpg

June: My wife and I visited Koutala from the Lady O naturist cruise, so cannot comment on access from land. Koutala is a beautiful orange-red sand beach backed by grey chalk cliffs. Perfect for nude sunbathing, swimming, and walks. We enjoyed the mud skin treatment while we were there.

Early August: We went on a weekday afternoon. The path was easy to find and follow. The beach is absolutely stunning, incredibly peaceful and beautiful. There was only one nude couple at the farther end and a single nude man with a SUP who put on his swimsuit and left in about a half an hour. Later two couples arrived (together) in swimsuits, so I have to say the beach was mixed, but I'd rather say deserted, it really felt like we had the beach to ourselves. We also much fun with the mud treatment, definitely try it.

.

.

.

.

Mania beach

See on Streetview

mania1.jpg

To access Mania beach, head towards the Ionian Sea Hotel, not towards Xi, take a left ¼mile (0.4km) before you reach the hotel. You arrive at a small parking area on the cliff above the beach. Walk to the left to go closer to the point that divides Koutala and Mania, this end is naturist. Be aware there are often rock-falls from the cliff behind so be careful.

About 1.5km before Xi beach the road forks out to the left and right with signs all indicating 'Xi beach'. Take the right, park at the end of the road and walk right (when facing the sea) along the narrow beach towards the rocks. The first rock is easily walked round as it is shallow sea with sandy floor. Walking around the second rock is a bit tricky as again it is shallow water but part of it is rocky (rather huge pebbles). You are rewarded with a beautiful sandy beach - best part half way across.

Recent reports

October: We visited Mania beach late afternoon at the beginning of October. Access to the beach is easy by a paved road that ends at a small parking area immediately in front of the beach. Being in a slightly more remote and less developed part of the island, we found it completely empty so it was no problem being naked. Unfortunately, when we visited, there was a lot of seaweed on the beach so we decided to explore what lay beyond Mania in each direction.

To the right (west) you eventually reach a small rocky outcrop which is easy to walk around… well perhaps paddle if you mistime the waves! Beyond the rocks is Kounopetra beach.

To the left (east) is a rocky outcrop, not too difficult to scramble over, beyond which is Koutala beach.

Kounopetra beach

See on Google maps

kounopetra1.jpg

The western end of Kounopetra beach is easily reached by a paved road leading to a parking area at the taverna on the sea front. see on street view. There are sunbeds at this end of the beach and it is overlooked by a few villas so in high season it can be expected to be 100% textile. Walk left (east) along the beach and even in high season, with discretion it may be possible to get naked. The cliffs are higher and more vertical at the eastern end so do heed the warnings about rockfalls. If you continue east passing a small rocky outcrop you will come to Mania beach.

The only thing that spoils this beach is the amount of seaweed!

Recent reports

October: At the beginning of the month we walked to Kounopetra beach from Mania beach. It was deserted and the taverna and villas all appeared closed so being naked would probably not have been a problem anywhere on Kounopetra beach. However there was a lot of seaweed so we headed back east past Mania and beyond.

Platia4.jpg

Platia Ammos

See on Google maps

As of October 2020, the stairs only go two thirds of the way down to the beach. The last third of stairs have now completely been destroyed (it would seem this is the case since the 2014 earthquake) so it is no longer possible to access this beach except by boat. Sometimes you hear reports that a beach is not accessible when actually if you are young and fit (like me) it is accessible. This is not one of those times and if you tried it you would be risking breaking an arm or leg.

Barefoot reporters who were there in August 2007 found this the most naturist beach on the island. The beach was long enough to walk a discreet distance from the textiles, who tend to collect in the first half of the beach. It was, like many island beaches, busy with Greek families on Sundays, but during the week much fewer people, mostly naked.
In June 2009 on one day there were only 7 people on the whole beach. One Greek family wore clothes, the other people were nude. And a lot of beach for each of them.
In June 2010 during the week nude bathing was no problem, but we have been bothered by a voyeuristic single Greek male.

June 2013: Platia Ammos had 3 nude ladies, a nude lady as part of 2 couples where I believe the other 3 had just dressed and us. A textile couple turned up later where the man had a great interest in the beach pebbles near the 2 nude ladies and us but, strangely enough, nowhere else on the beach. BE WARNED, the steps to the beach resemble the great wall of China and if you are in any way unfit, DO NOT attempt it. The beach is also very hard to walk on as it is all pebbles. This is however the best nude option by far.
August 2013: it's a little bit far from Argostoli (the ferry boat takes half an hour to get to Lixouri), the last part of the road is quite bad for motorbikes (but we have reached the top of the stairs). 280 steps. Textiles place themselves on the first part of the beach. A few minutes walking we placed ourselves and stripped off with no problems. Two more couples of naturists arrived and placed themselves on the last part of the beach. Three more young couples arrived but I think they were textiles trying (and obviously enjoying) nudism for the first time (only men stripped off; one girl topless). We spent a great day even if sea conditions were not so good and it was quite difficult to swim. 280 steps are challenging but (if you are fit) it is worth it!


PetaniCephalonia.JPG

Petani

See on Google maps

Also on the peninsula is Petani beach on the west coast, about 20 minutes' drive from the ferry at Lixouri. Look out for the sign to Petania in Greek.

A very winding, steep road down to this beach which has a lovely setting with a backdrop of mountains. At the bottom of the road, turn right and park by the boats. A short walk North (turn right) takes you to a very quiet, pebbly beach with large boulders and rocks providing good privacy. Good for swimming and snorkelling.

The beach was mainly a mix of fine stones and pebbles although my contributors were able to find a sandy area towards the rear of the beach for more comfortable lazing. There were a few naturists situated at the southern end of this beach (turn left on reaching the beach). We were sufficiently away from the sunbeds and textiles to feel comfortable here. The sea here was very clear and calm but fairly quickly shelving. Jelly shoes recommended. This report dates from June 2001.

PetaniCephalonia2.JPG

A report from July 2004 says this is a really lovely beach: much nicer than Myrtos, although in a similar setting. Cross the ferry from Argostoli to Lixouri (€3.60 car, €1.20 passenger…get up to the top deck of the ferry - marvellous views across the Bay of Argostoli!) Turn left on arriving at the beach, walk about 150 yards past the sunloungers, and there are a reasonably large number of naturists with a few textiles scattered in between. Absolutely lovely! The weather at the time helped: glorious sun, warm sea - 95% - would be more if not for the narrow, winding roads.

Barefooters who visited in 2006 did not find it as idyllic as earlier reporters; although very scenic the beach is stony with little sand. My reporters established themselves in a small stony cove at the northern end and went nude. Others found it too crowded to be nude in August 2007.

Other Barefooters who visited Petani in June 2008 confirm that naturism is practised on the left side of the beach when facing the sea (confirmed in June 2010). They say snorkelling brilliant, but they advise getting there early as textiles use this area too and first there decides the order of the day. The beach has some shade most of the day due to the cliff behind. Take jelly shoes or similar as pebble beach.

Recent reports

We went to Petani (mid-July) and at the extreme right there still is possibility to swim naked. We were the only couple doing so, but nobody (even textile crowd coming to take pictures at the rocks) minded.

Fteri01.jpg

Fteri Beach

See on Google maps

Accessible by boat or by a 1km driveable dirt track and moderately difficult 2km walk, this beach is potentially suitable for naturists, at least out of high season when the Fteri Water Taxi from Zola harbour isn't bringing large numbers of textiles to the beach.

fteri02.jpg

The trail to the beach is well marked with green and red paint marks on the rocks which are not too difficult to follow. However, it is narrow in places and does entail scrambling over rocks along the steeply sloping sides of the gorge so suitable stout footwear is essential. Further details of the trail to Fteri Beach, including downloadable GPS data and photos taken from waypoints along it, can be found on Wikiloc click here

Fteri is very similar to the famous Myrtos Beach but a bit smaller and, being more difficult to get to, without all the masses of tourists. Like Myrtos, the white pebble beach, turquoise sea and awesome backdrop of high white cliffs are stunning. Equally it has some of the disadvantages of Myrtos… the pebbles are mostly large and uncomfortable to sit on and the seabed, also pebble, shelves steeply so getting in and out of the water is difficult and wet shoes are really advisable. Even when the sea is relatively calm the grinding of seabed pebbles against one another creates white sediments making the water a bit cloudy. In rougher conditions swimming is probably inadvisable particularly as this beach is not lifeguarded. There are no facilities on the beach.

All in all an amazingly beautiful location but unlike Myrtos, being more isolated, it may be easier to bare all here.

Recent reports

October: Took us about an hour to walk to the beach and we arrived late afternoon. We had the beach to ourselves although on the way down we did hear voices of a small group of people, presumably heading back from the beach via a different footpath through the trees. The red and green marks coincide for much of the route but occasionally depart. We think the green route is possibly a little easier.

Vouti Beach

See on Google maps

Close to Aghia Kiriaki beach. In the village Zola follow the sign to the small but nice Vouti Beach. In low season (June 2010) it's a mostly quiet place where nude bathing is no problem - especially at the left side of the beach when facing the sea. It seems that in high season there is a beach bar at Vouti beach.

vouti01.JPG
vouti02.JPG
vouti03.JPG

Recent reports

June: My wife and I visited Vouti in the late afternoon on a Thursday. No problems driving to the beach bar. We went to the left side. No problem going naked there. One other naturist couple was there. The sea was quite calm with sand and pebbles.
Vouti_Beach

August: About 10-20 people in the smaller cove on the left, all of them textile, no chance for nudity.

Kiriakis.JPG

Aghia Kiriaki

See on Google maps

After about 6 miles from Argostoli, the road forks left for Lixouri and right for Myrtos; follow the right fork and then turn left, following the sign for Aghia Kiriaki beach. The beach is a long strip of sand and shingle, divided into small and large coves, with a dirt track running its length. The road is paved to where it joins the seafront track which is in reasonable condition and passable by car. Follow the road for about 1.5 miles down to the sea, then turn right onto the beach road.

Follow until about 400 yards from the end, where there is a snack bar and a number of people. Here the beach was deserted, and there was plenty of room to park the car beside the track. The narrow ¾ mile (1.2km) long beach runs eastwards from the harbour at Zola widening towards the right hand (eastern) end. The beach appeared to be used mainly by the locals, but my contributors felt comfortable, although they were the only naturists. Pretty setting, but not a marvellous beach.

Recent reports

September:

Kiriaki2.jpg

We found the right hand end of the beach surprisingly busy for mid-September. Perhaps this was due to the snack bar and umbrellas at that end of the beach or maybe as it was a Sunday the locals go there en masse for a day out. Although there was plenty of space it most definitely was 100% textile and we didn't feel comfortable to strip off there. We headed back westwards where there were fewer people and so no problem being naked. At first we were the only naturists but the m/f couple next to us stripped off soon after we did.

Kiriaki1.jpg

The beach is mostly gritty sand which slopes gently into the sea so entering the water is easy. There was some seaweed on the beach though that may vary with seasonal weather conditions. The dirt track is busy and not screened from the beach which perhaps detracts from the beach's suitability for naturism. With more people arriving later in the afternoon via the dirt track we decided to move on to neighbouring Vouti Beach.

Myrtos.JPG

Myrtos Beach

See on Google maps

Myrtos is one of the most famous, and frequently photographed, beaches in Greece. It is about three-quarters of the way north up the west side of Cephalonia. You turn off the road between Argostoli and Fiskardo at a well-marked junction and go downhill for about two to three kilometres using a tarred road with hairpin bends. It drops quite steeply downhill, becomes a track and then debouches onto the shingle beach with parking areas at the rear of the beach either side of a snack bar.

Featured on many a picture postcard, this scenic beach has a lovely setting of a mountain backdrop but is quite a drive from most holiday accommodation areas - the nearest about 10 kms away is Agia Efimia. From the main western coast road, it is signposted as 4 kms. The road is good but take it steadily, as it is steep and winding. Turn right (northwards) when reaching the white shingle beach, to join other naturists at the end of the bay. When my contributors visited (June 2001) there were 7 other naturist couples and it felt very comfortable. A report from July 2001 says that the northern end was uncrowded and 100% naturist.

Mirtos2.JPG

The beach is situated at the rear of a wide inlet backed by steeply sloping cliffs with piles of scree below them from which the almost white shingle comes. The beach shelves steeply so that large waves form. There have been people drowned here because of 8-feet-high waves crashing onto the shingle.

So flip flops or jelly shoes are a must. Parasols and sun loungers can be hired for around 3 euro per person.

The beach is 90% textile with nudism practised at the northern end where there are a few large rocks (turn right at the bottom of the road to park nearer the CO end). There are topless bathers elsewhere. At the southern end there is a cave but no easily reachable boulders. I dare say suited bathers wouldn't mind if you stripped off but it would not feel comfortable.

There is a beach bar in the middle of the beach that has been noisy in the past. Nearby there are some toilets and some showers (free) to rinse off after a hard day's lounging, said to be an absolute boon before rushing off to catch the flight home….

As the beach faces west it receives the sun virtually all day long and the sunsets can be stunning!. The surrounding cliffs provide shelter from the wind and it seems a good place for sunning oneself. The cliffs also prevent any gawkers from above. Very scenic, but beach very shingley: stony access to sea makes getting into the water difficult. (Getting out can be very difficult too when the waves pick up - be aware and stay safe! Ed.)

Recent reports

June: My wife and I visited Myrtos fairly early in the morning on a Thursday. We had a small delay on the road down as there was a crew making some repairs. We parked at the bottom and walked to the north end of the beach. Because we were first there we set the dress code as naturist. Later we were joined by three or four other naturist couples. One warning is to be aware of goats climbing on the cliffs above this part of the beach. They do occasionally knock down some stones. The day we went the sea was quite calm and getting into and out of the water was easy. Water shoes are still a must.
Myrtos_rocks.jpg

Mid-October: At our visit no nudists and no topless women on the entire beach. Therefore, Myrtos Beach cannot go as a naturist beach, even at the northern end: too many visitors, even in the low season. The beach is heavily marketed and any visitor of the island sees it as a must to go there. It may be possible to strip off from time to time but it is no pleasure, facing beach walkers and families with children around you …

Dafnoudi Beach

See on Google maps

Go south from Fiskardo on the main road and in a couple of kilometres or less come to a turning to Dafnoudi Beach just before the village of Antipata Eristou. Follow the new road to within a few hundred metres of the end. Look for a sign DAFNOUDI on the right indicating the footpath to the beach. It is a lovely walk through the woodland, about 20 mins.

The inlet is about 30 metres across and medium-to-large shingle. There are no facilities. You may be visited by boats. Previous reports suggested that this beach may be suitable for nudism, but recent correspondents reported textiles only there, so they felt unable to strip off.

Recent reports

October: Stayed in Antipata for the last week of our holiday. Dafnoudi was our nearest beach and in walking distance so we paid a visit late one afternoon. Even this late in the year, judging by the people we passed returning from the beach, it seemed to be popular. Our perception was probably coloured by recent reports but we felt it was textile and that on such a small beach there wouldn't be enough seclusion to feel comfortable stripping off amongst textiles. That said, it did take us quite a long time to walk there and we were more concerned about getting back before it got dark rather than offending the last bohemian-looking couple on the beach who were obviously free camping there. The beach is picturesque and looks great for swimming (beach shoes recommended). We might have tried again another day and got there a bit earlier but just didn't get round to it!

Kalamaki_beach.JPG

Kalamaki

See on Google maps

A small pebbly beach just 120 metres north west of Kimilia. Take the main road from Fiskardo to Antipata. After about 1.7 kilometres, leave the road to the right and follow the signs to Kimilia beach. Shortly before the beach, you'll find a small sign pointing to the left, leading you on a small trail to Kalamaki.

During several visits in September 2016, my contributor had this beach all to himself. Only once he was joined by two young men who did not hesitate to drop their pants, no tanlines indicating that they were fellow nudists.

Recent reports

October: We visited Kalamaki twice mid-month after finding nearby Kimilia Beach occupied by textiles. On the first occasion a large luxury motor cruiser was anchored in the cove and the textile crew plus two other textiles were on Kimilia beach and swimming there so we walked on the 100m to Kalamaki which we had to ourselves. Although still within sight of the motor cruiser we felt comfortable to be nude and spent a lovely afternoon there until the sun disappeared behind the trees.

On our second visit we found Kimilia surprisingly busy… about 15 people on the beach, surrounding rocks or in the water and once again 100% textile so we again walked on to Kalamaki Beach which was empty except for a couple of towels laid out. There were two bikini clad women swimming a short distance from the shore and talking in Greek so were presumably locals. We decided to strip off, sunbathe and skinny dip. No problem at all and the women didn't seem at all bothered by our presence either in the water or when they returned to the beach and sat only a few metres from us.

kalamaki02.jpg
kalamaki03.jpg
They left after a half an hour or so and once again we had the beach to ourselves. A small, traditional Greek boat arrived mid-afternoon with five textiles on board. It anchored far enough from shore not to be a concern when the occupants dived in for a swim.

Kimilia.JPG

Kimilia

See on Google maps

A small beach in between Dafnoudi beach and Emblisi beach. The walk from Emblisi beach is no more than 15 minutes. There is no sign from Emblisi beach but you can see the path on the hill. Go left to the hill and pass through the forest. If you walk along the coast there is a nice space on the rock at the end of Emblisi beach. At Kimilia many young Greeks and tourists are there from the morning until the evening 100% with no clothes. The rock is easy to lay down on and easy to get to swim. Avoid in August - too many family and tourists.
Update for July 2011: tried to follow these instructions but no luck finding a beach after a 45 minute walk along the coast. It appears the instructions should say go to the road junction pointed on the linked map and walk north through the forest to find the beach.
However we did find another good spot by going to the left side of Emblisi beach through some bushes to a wire fence, this appears to block your path but it's simply a gate tied by a piece of rope. Walk for about 5 minutes on this path through the bushes and trees, with rocks down to the sea on your right. Once you spot a small rocky headland, leave the path and clamber down a few rocks to a very small pebbly beach. We had this to ourselves with occasional snorkellers coming from Emblisi and a couple of day boats from Fiskardo.

Recent reports

(There are more photo's under 2017 tab)

October: We visited Kimilia twice, mid-month. On the first occasion a large luxury motor cruiser was anchored in the cove and its' crew and two others who had arrived by the footpath, all textile, were on the beach, swimming, snorkelling and jet-skiing.

kimilia04.jpg

On the second occasion no motor cruiser but around fifteen textiles, mostly families with children. We didn't feel comfortable to be naked on either occasion and moved on to nearby Kalamaki Beach

Fiscardo1.JPG

around Fiskardo

There are a series of inlets most of which have small shingle beaches at their head. Most of them are hard to reach from unmapped tracks by unmapped trails so access by boat is the practical alternative.

Outboard-motor-driven boats can be hired in Fiskardo and from Agia Efimia for between 45 and 70 euro a day (depending on boat size and engine power), petrol extra. The service is available at 9:00 - 18:00. Don't forget the boats have to be returned by 18:00 each day! You do not need a special licence to use the boat.

All the beaches are shingle and the default for swimming and bathing is to wear costumes. But get there first or find a deserted one and clothes can become very optional indeed. None of the beaches have any facilities so you need to bring in food, drink and anything else you need (beach umbrella, swim mask and coolbox with ice is provided and is included in the boat price).

If you rent your boat in Agia Efimia you can sail to the north only.

There are three inlets to the west of Fiskardo. The westmost one, in the inlet to the west of the one with apartments going up on its eastern headland, is as good as any of the others. There may be spots of oil on the shingle. Some form of footwear is recommended as the shingle is large and it helps you avoid the prickly sea urchins. There is also a cave to explore and a rusty bike planted on a rock.

There are about ten inlets to the south of Fiskardo. The one past the island has the cleanest shingle, the clearest water, the least sea urchins and, for the adventurous, diving off the rocks at the side.

Fiskardo2.JPG

Sailing the boat with nothing on is great and if you find a nice deserted shingle beach the day becomes very nice indeed. The island has a chapel on it, unlocked when we were there, but landing is tricky. We found an inlet, a micro-inlet, on the Ithaca side of it.
Four out of ten for the beach, six out of ten for the boating…

Barefooters who visited in 2009 found several excellent beaches to the south of Fiscardo and had the beaches to themselves. No problem for naturism excepting other boats that sail from time to time along the coast.

Recent reports

October: The permitted sailing area for the boat we hired in Fiskardo was the northern coast as far as Dafnoudi, south along the eastern coast as far as Agia Sofia and a few beaches along the western coast of Ithaca. The hirer was helpful in advising the places, such as the Islet of Asteris (aka Daskalio), where there are hazardous submerged rocks and also the beaches, such as those nearest the northern tip of Ithaca, where unstable cliffs and recent rock-falls could make going ashore risky. On a critical note, although the boat was equipped with a kill cord, it was tied up out of the way and no instruction was given on its use! This is an important and very simple bit of safety equipment so do make sure you use it and ASK IF NECESSARY. Usually they have a red plastic coil to prevent them trailing on the floor. Ours was just a length of thin rope which does the job but, as happened with us, if it trails on the floor it is easy to accidentally snag it with your feet (no doubt why it had been tied up out of the way). Easily solved but it took me a moment or two to realise why the engine suddenly cut out part way through the day!

To take best advantage of the sun throughout the day our plan had been to first explore the beaches south of Fiskardo, then in the afternoon go across to Ithaca and make our way northwards up the western coast as far as we could in the time available. Before setting out we checked the weather forecast and downloaded an off-line map and satellite imagery to our tablet. Though difficult to see in strong sunlight, having a GPS display is useful for navigating in unfamiliar waters and satellite imagery helps to locate beaches.

The hirer suggested it may be better to visit Ithaca first as later in the day the wind usually picks up in the Strait of Ithaca and it can get a bit choppy. Taking this advice and discounting the northern beaches we set course for Ammoúdi, a small, isolated pebble beach on the west of Ithaca where we felt it might be possible to be nude. Ammoúdi Beach was empty but, close inshore the morning mist had not burnt off and being surrounded on three sides by steeply sloping high ground, the beach was in deep shade. We continued southwards to the beach and small harbour of Polis. Again much of the beach was misty and in shade and in any event it wasn’t really suitable for naturism. We briefly considered going ashore and walking up to the village of Stavros for coffee but decided to maximise use of the boat and head back across the channel to Agia Sofia. Although the beach there wasn’t shaded we felt it not secluded enough to be suitable for naturism and headed back up northwards along the eastern coast of Kefalonia.

Our next stop was Piglet Bear Bay. The bay faces north so was partly shady but it is a lovely secluded inlet with a tiny pebble beach. Being deserted we decided to drop anchor and enjoyed skinny dipping from the boat for a while.

Moving on again we started looking for a sunny beach where we could go ashore to eat our lunch. We passed a few tiny unnamed coves and very soon reached an unnamed beach, 38°23'43.5"N 20°36'33.6"E. It was little bit bigger, looked perfect and was deserted so we decided to go ashore. Not easy though! Like most of the beaches along this coastline, the seabed falls away very steeply and the anchor rope was a little too short! Judging where to drop the anchor so the boat was far enough from the shore not to be grounding on the rocky seabed but close enough to attach the equally short forward mooring line to something on the beach, was far from easy! Whilst we were faffing around a couple in a kayak snuck in and pulled their kayak up on the very spot we had been eying up! We pondered whether to join them but it seemed like they were textiles so we upped anchor and moved on.

unnamed01.jpg

We passed several more coves looking for one that we could have to ourselves and where anchoring and getting ashore wouldn’t be too challenging. With the number of boats around we began to wonder just how easy it would be to find an empty beach in high season! Eventually we reached Kamini Beach. There was one other boat there but we decided to go for it anyway. The other boat soon left and we had the beach to ourselves so being naked wasn’t a problem although a few troublesome wasps were unwelcome visitors! A rough dirt track leads to Kamini and a small closed up building at the back of the beach suggests it could be busy in high season and perhaps not so suitable for naturists then.

kamini01.jpg

We stayed on Kamini for a while leaving ourselves just enough time to return to Fiskardo at a fairly gentle pace taking a brief look at the remaining coves along the way. On the way back we also ventured out towards the centre of the channel to see how choppy it was. It wasn’t too bad and certainly a lot less challenging than conditions I have been out in off the south coast of England. Never completely ignore local advice but give consideration to the weather forecast and providing you have appropriate experience and small boat handling skills, if you wish to visit the west coast of Ithaka, our original plan to do this in the afternoon may be more rewarding.


Antisamos2.JPG

Antisamos

See on Google maps

Shooting some scenes here for the film 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin' has highlighted this lovely beach and also provided a tarmac road. In Sami, head for the harbour area. When my contributors visited, there was a large square road area in front of the harbour but they were starting to build a roundabout in the middle. Go to the far south-eastern corner of this square, (top right hand end looking towards the sea) and there is a small signpost for Antisamos. Go up this narrow residential road which takes a sharp right-hand turn, then at the T junction turn left and follow the road out of town, up over the hill and headland to drop down to beautiful Antisamos (about 4 kms, I would guess). On reaching the beach there is a track at the rear of the beach. Drive as far right as you can go and park. You MUST now follow the coast line as there has been a further rock fall just before the naturist section of the beach.

Some naturists settle here, others make the slightly tricky clamber over large rocks to the last small bay (see photo). Sea very clear but rocky so jellies recommended. The pebbles were a bit large to lie on all day without getting a bruised bum so bring a foam mat if you have one. The further rockfall means this is an even more difficult route but well worth it as it's now even quieter.

The main beach is made of large pebbles and stones. The beach is in a very nice and protected bay. The first part is completely textile, and there you can rent sunloungers and parasol. At the beach entrance there is also a small bar. The last part of the beach is very narrow with stones. This is the naturist section and there is enough room for plenty of space between sunbathers. At the very end of the beach (the last 100m) separated from the rest by some big stones, there are very often nude people enjoying the sun and the sea. One correspondent gives this beach 8 out of 10, another 50%

Antisamos1.JPG

Although it's a lovely beach, some people find that the shingle is very difficult to handle and for pure naturism, it leaves much to be desired. Sami, as a resort, however, is very laid back. There's good access (thanks to the Captain Corelli road) and very scenic, but not a comfortable beach: very rocky, with stones varying between a golf ball and a rugby ball in size. At the far end of the beach, where there were two or three other naturist couples, and one or two textiles, it was too uncomfortable to stay for more than 2-3 hours.

Recent reports

June: My wife and I visited Antisamos on a Wednesday afternoon. We walked to right end of the beach past the water sports kiosk. The beach narrows there and there was some shade under trees. I stripped off, but my wife was less comfortable as there were no other naturists there at the time. Pretty beach, but not great for naturism.

capnthmb.gif
Unless otherwise stated, the content of this page is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 License