A beautifully scenic island with quite the most picturesque Chora the Captain has had the pleasure of visiting. Plus beaches used by naturists.
Agios Nikolas
This is the main nudist beach on the island. Nudism appears to be officially accepted as the signs here say "Camping is not allowed" whereas on some other beaches they say "Nudism and Camping is not allowed". The proportion of nudists varied a lot from day to day. This is partly due to the beach being more sheltered from the wind than the nearby Agali beach, which is textile. It is sandy, there is a taverna and trees at the back to provide shade. It can get quite busy.
The Captain finally made it here in June 2005. There is now a bus service from the Chora to Agali, so the arduous trek to and from the main road can be avoided. From Agali, the path over the cliffs to the right facing the sea takes up to 25 minutes to walk. It's quite scenic but the view of earlier correspondents that it might in places be a bit much for the timid is certainly correct.
A nice beach overlooked by a chapel and a limited taverna (sells drinks and expensive fish, also snacks such as Greek salads). The beach is mostly gravel; some shade at the back under the trees. The seabed is mixed - some rock shelf, some smaller stones - but beautifully clear water. 50% of those present were nude during our visit in early June 2005. Overall a nice beach if you don't mind the journey, have your own supplies or can afford the fish.
This beach may be a focal point for all tourists in high season and its nature then could easily change.
In 2004 it was no longer necessary to negotiate the clifftop path: there was a frequent boat service from Angali to Aghios Nikolaias and other beaches (except when there is a southerly wind). When the Captain visited in 2005 there was no sign of this.
A previous contributor described the beach thus: Fantastic waters, great fish, lovely and funny people, no electricity, no cars, a dream place at nights with a full moon. At nights everybody become one around a fireplace singing and drinking.
A Barefooter who visited in August 2006 found the beach disappointing. It did feature naturists, but they seemed to be in a minority on that day. Textiles were about 90%. Also, the beach was far too crowded. Finding somewhere to place one's towel seemed a real struggle. However, naturism here seems to be guaranteed, so if you are willing to put up with the crowds, you should be OK. The Captain suspects that this is the usual high season problem that we find in so many Greek Islands.
Another Barefoot reporter who visited in September 2006 says there were only 50% naturists at Ag Nikolas.
And Barefooters who visited the island for the day during August 2007 found Ag Nikolas crowded, 97% textile and a real mess: it seemed all people on the isle were there. Absolutely not recommended in August.
Livadaki
This is another, quieter, clothing-optional beach within an inlet of rocky cliffs. It can be reached by boat from Angali (see above), or by walking down a path from the Ano Meria bus terminus. The walk takes nearly an hour and can be done in the nude most of the way (the Captain hasn't tried this and can't therefore recommend it personally). The beach is a mixture of sand and pebbles, with a lot of pillars that people have built by piling stones on top of each other - these can be seen from a long way above whilst walking down the path and they look like people on the beach. There are no facilities and no shade.
Fira
This beach is mentioned in the Rough Guide as a nudist beach. At Angali go east, to the left, up between the houses and then along a cliff path for 10 minutes. This path might also seem a bit daunting to some. Fira is a poor beach, 25%, a cove of mainly large pebbles and rock with a little sand. It seems to be on a walking route and there were spots of oil and tar. Some contributors think access too difficult for it to be a real prospect.
Vitsetzou and Pountaki
From the port, Karavostassis, walk 850m south to a sign post to Vitsetzou and then walk down a short reasonable path to two sandy coves, one called Vitsetzou and the other Pountaki. These were used by 10 nudists on the day my contributors were there at the end of May 2001. These coves are exposed to the NE but were marvellous on a hot still day. There is a good bus service from the Chora to the port and getting to Vitsetzou is a gentle stroll along the road. There is a road which runs along the clifftop, from which you can see these small beaches if you look down (though not if you drive past). In September 2004 there were sometimes people there but not nude, but it probably depends on who gets there first.
In August 2006 no naturism reported here at all, unfortunately - but this may be the effect of high season crowds.
Livadi
In May 01 this main beach 1.2 km south of Karavostassis was deserted and we felt quite comfortable using it but in peak season it is probably all textile. It is just a little bit further along the road from Vitsetzou. More recent reports (2004) question whether this is a suitable place for nudism. For much of its length the back of the beach is used as a road to the campsite. One Barefoot correspondent did swim naked there at the far end. Some other people arrived and didn't seem to mind, but then some older people arrived and it didn't seem comfortable.
However a report from July 2005 says that if you walk along the road on the right of the port, Karavostassis, for about 15 mins, there are 3 little beaches used by nudists. The 1st has steps down & sun all afternoon, the 2nd has a steep path down & some shade under cliffs, this beach could sometimes get quite busy, & the 3rd had a very steep & tricky path down, fit only for the young & agile.
Katergo
This beach apparently used to be the most popular beach on the island, but a few years ago the winter storms washed away a lot of sand and dumped some large boulders on the beach. So now, not many people go there. Nonetheless it is quite an acceptable beach. It is quite a long beach of grey sand and the boulders aren't a problem. There are no facilities and no shade. When a Barefoot reporter arrived there on a boat tour, there was nobody else there apart from those from our boat and even then we only occupied one end, so it seems nudism would be possible here. There are boats to this beach advertised at the port, and it's no doubt possible to get there by taking a long walk.
Vorina
This is based on a report from September 2005. Vorina is a beach on the north side of Folegandros approximately halfway between Chora and the turn that leads to Angali. From Chora head to Angali, go past the windmills on your right hand side, (Vorina bay is just below the windmills - to their north) a little further you will meet a chapel just by the road on your left. Just across the road there is a small clearing, where in high season you might see parked mopeds.
Park there and start walking down the most obvious path between the short drystone walls. A bit further down 70m approx. from the parking spot turn left to the steeper descent, which you will soon realise it is a manmade stepped path with dry stone steps. The beach is a 160m descent and it takes around 20 minutes to go down and… a lot of effort to climb back up in the middle of the day! However once nearly down to the beach you will realise there is a smaller beach on the left and a large one on the right. Take your pick. The beach when my contributor visited was 50% nudist but the only clothed bathers were 3 young couples which did not mind at all.
Go to this beach only if the wind blows from west south west or south, or you might face unpleasant waves. Sand with pebbles on the beach, large rounded stones in the sea, snorkelling recommended. Further to the left there are some interesting rocks to which you can swim (when the sea is calm) or climb… if you want to be alone.
Due to the fact that it is a northern beach you might find plenty of rubbish at the edge of the beach towards the slope, but do not let it put you off. It is a difficult beach to reach and it is unlikely to attract the tourist hoards. For the same reason the beach - though not a long one - it is usually quiet. Take lots of water - save some for the climb up - and some form of shade (half tent or umbrella). My contributor rates the beach 50%.
