A beautifully scenic island with quite the most picturesque Chora the Captain has had the pleasure of visiting. Plus beaches used by naturists.
A correspondent says: "I was in Folegandros between end of May and beginning June 2010. That meant only a very limited number of tourists: often I found myself on the beaches alone or only with other two/three people. That’s the reason is quite difficult to say if they could have been nudist spots or not. In Folegandros there are not so many beaches, but most of them immersed in beautiful wild landscapes with nice small pebbles and crystal waters. Usually you have to walk a while to reach them or take some 'taxi-boat' (that possibility wasn't yet functioning in the period when I was there). Owing to this 'boat-traffic' unfortunately it is quite easy to find small tar traces between the pebbles on the beaches. Shame."
This is the main nudist beach on the island. Nudism appears to be officially accepted as the signs here say "Camping is not allowed" whereas on some other beaches they say "Nudism and Camping is not allowed". The proportion of nudists varied a lot from day to day. This is partly due to the beach being more sheltered from the wind than the nearby Agali beach, which is textile. It is sandy, there is a taverna and trees at the back to provide shade. It can get quite busy.
The Captain finally made it here in June 2005. There is now a bus service from the Chora to Agali, so the arduous trek to and from the main road can be avoided. From Agali, the path over the cliffs to the right facing the sea takes up to 25 minutes to walk. It's quite scenic but the view of earlier correspondents, that it might in places be a bit much for the timid, is certainly correct.
A nice beach overlooked by a chapel and a limited taverna (sells drinks and expensive fish, also snacks such as Greek salads). The beach is mostly gravel; some shade at the back under the trees. The seabed is mixed - some rock shelf, some smaller stones - but beautifully clear water. 50% of those present were nude during our visit in early June 2005. Overall a nice beach if you don't mind the journey, have your own supplies or can afford the fish.
This beach may be a focal point for all tourists in high season and its nature then could easily change.
In 2004 it was no longer necessary to negotiate the cliff-top path: there was a frequent boat service from Angali to Aghios Nikolaos and other beaches (except when there is a southerly wind). When the Captain visited in 2005 there was no sign of this.
A previous contributor described the beach thus: Fantastic waters, great fish, lovely and funny people, no electricity, no cars, a dream place at nights with a full moon. At nights everybody become one around a fireplace singing and drinking.
A Barefooter who visited in August 2006 found the beach disappointing. It did feature naturists, but they seemed to be in a minority on that day. Textiles were about 90%. Also, the beach was far too crowded. Finding somewhere to place one's towel seemed a real struggle. However, naturism here seems to be guaranteed, so if you are willing to put up with the crowds, you should be OK. The Captain suspects that this is the usual high season problem that we find in so many Greek Islands.
Another Barefoot reporter who visited in September 2006 says there were only 50% naturists at Ag Nikolaos.
And Barefooters who visited the island for the day during August 2007 found Ag Nikolaos crowded, 97% textile and a real mess: it seemed all people on the isle were there. Absolutely not recommended in August.
June 2010: It is sheltered, with some trees for the shade, nice white pebbles, a few rocks to snorkel around, crystal waters, a small bar/tavern nearby. It has a relaxed and quiet atmosphere. Mixed crowd, the nudist side is (even if not exclusively) on the far right.
End of July 2013: possibility of nudism on the far right of the beach but, at the time we were there, only 5% were nude. Nice beach, very clear water but we wouldn't recommend it from 15th of July till the end of August.
Late August 2014: Spent four wonderful mornings with my wife at Ag Nikolaos with no issues whatsoever. Crystal-clear waters and good snorkelling. The key is to get to the beach early. If you stay in Ano Meria there is an excellent donkey track which gets you to the beach in 40 mins walk. Alternatively drive to Agali and walk 25 mins. The boats from Agali start arriving at 11am so get there at 9.30am and you will be sharing the beach with only a handful of people. Position yourself on the far right, near the rocks and as the morning develops other nude couples, singles and topless bathers will start to join you. It is by no means exclusively a nudist beach but the other sunbathers accept that it is mixed. If the sea is calm and you are a very strong swimmer there is another cove around from the left of the beach just beyond where the boats land below the church, you will have it to yourself although there will be people walking above you going to Agali. Around Aug 15th (Greek public holiday) the island was more crowded but as the week wore on there were less and less people.
I stayed in Folegandros from 20 - 26 August 2014: Agios Nikolaos is too crowded after 11 am due to taxi boats, few nude people in the far right as described above. Although plenty of textile people, there is still a minority that resists and don't have trouble to be among a crowd of textile people.
Middle of August 2015: Spent a wonderful day on Agios Nikolaos beach, we were 10 nudist guys and girls and the number increased in the afternoon. There were many non-nudist tourists under the tree but it was a nice mix of people. The best nudist part of the beach is on the right.
September 2015: The same goes for this beach as for most others on the island except those which are in easy reach from the road: arrive early (before 11 am) and you have the beach for yourself (see above). What made Agios Nikolaos special for us (straight couple) is the relaxed mix of nudes and textiles as well as gay and straight, families, singles, couples, etc and THE TAVERN: the lower one is a must - take a drink or two, the food is fresh and tasty and the view out over the sea marvellous.
This is another, quieter, clothing-optional beach within an inlet of rocky cliffs. It can be reached by boat from Angali (see above), or by walking down a path from the Ano Meria bus terminus. The walk takes nearly an hour and can be done in the nude most of the way (the Captain hasn't tried this and can't therefore recommend it personally). The beach is a mixture of sand and pebbles, with a lot of pillars that people have built by piling stones on top of each other - these can be seen from a long way above whilst walking down the path and they look like people on the beach. There are no facilities.
June 2010: On the South West side of the island it is my favourite, secluded (you have to walk on a path for about 40 minutes from the main road to reach it) very sheltered, with some trees that guarantee a very pleasant shadow. White nice pebbles, crystal calm waters and some nice flat white rocks on the right side where you can sunbathe or just dive into the water (or just watch the sunset in the sea – a rarity in an island where the position of the beaches normally doesn’t allow this).
Nudism is normal there, even if not exclusive.
August 2010: This beach is very heavily used and the day I visited was 100% textile, although many of the women were topless. Obviously in a quieter month, this may change, but with all the families on the beach, it would be a brave naturist who would have bared it all on the day I visited.
end of July 2013: nice water and beach but 100% textile…
Late August 2014: Arrive early via the path from Ano Meria and you have the beach to yourself 'til around 11am when hordes of people start arriving by boat. The day we went we grabbed one of the bays in the trees at the back of the beach and, although later on we did have families walking past, no-one batted an eyelid. After the boats arrived we would however don our shorts to get to the sea. There were two fellow naturists, one just behind us and the other on the rocks on the right.
Middle August 2015: I was the only nudist on the beach but I had no kind of problem, there were also some other nudist guys on the rock in the right part of the bay.
September 2015: We went there by boat from Agali - the trip itself is recommended along the steep cliffs of the island with the falcons (?) doing their spectacular flight manoeuvres. The beach is pebbly, the water crystal clear, the flat cliffs to the right offer plenty of space for "grilling" in the sun, and the tamarisks in the back offer plenty of shade. Nudism? No problem! That is, if you do not let the textiles bother you, which of ccourse we didn't ;-)
This beach is mentioned in the Rough Guide as a nudist beach. At Angali go east, to the left, up between the houses and then along a cliff path for 10 minutes. This path might also seem a bit daunting to some. Fira is a poor beach, 25%, a cove of mainly large pebbles and rock with a little sand. It seems to be on a walking route and there were spots of oil and tar. Some contributors think access too difficult for it to be a real prospect.
End of July 2013: this seems to be the only beach on the island that you can go nude in such a relaxing atmosphere….crystal clear water but the beach was as described above although we didn' t find any oil or tar… about 50% or more were nudist. The other doesn't seems to bother at all….
also we found the path very easy to walk as far as you wore shoes….it's about 10 minutes' walk from Agkali bay..
Late august 2014: good beach for swimming, there is sand and entry to the water is easy since the water is low. If you come early you can set the trend to nude beach. When we went there there were always a gay couple nude, then started to arrive textile people.
Middle August 2015: 100% nudist beach, my favorite. Nice water and amazing sunset. You can reach it by a walk from the village of Chora. It takes one hour. I did part of it naked.
Vitsetzou and Pountaki
From the port, Karavostassis, walk 850m south to a sign post to Vitsetzou and then walk down a short reasonable path to two sandy coves, one called Vitsetzou and the other Pountaki. These were used by 10 nudists on the day my contributors were there at the end of May 2001. These coves are exposed to the NE but were marvellous on a hot still day. There is a good bus service from the Chora to the port and getting to Vitsetzou is a gentle stroll along the road. There is a road which runs along the clifftop, from which you can see these small beaches if you look down (though not if you drive past). In September 2004 there were sometimes people there but not nude, but it probably depends on who gets there first.
A report from July 2005 says that if you walk along the road on the right of the port, Karavostassis, for about 15 mins, there are 3 little beaches used by nudists. The 1st (Latinaky?) has steps down & sun all afternoon, the 2nd (Vintsetzou?) has a steep path down & some shade under cliffs, this beach could sometimes get quite busy, & the 3rd (Pountaki?) had a very steep & tricky path down, fit only for the young & agile.
In August 2006 no naturism reported here at all, unfortunately - but this may be the effect of high season crowds.
We visited Pountaki in mid-June 2011, we were the only nudists and just a few textiles who didn't seem to bother at all.
Late august 2014: not recommended, too close to houses, the firsts coves you meet (Latinaki) are used mainly by family with kids. In Pountaki, we saw from the road just one couple nude among plenty of textiles.
In May 2001 this main beach 1.2 km south of Karavostassis was deserted and we felt quite comfortable using it but in peak season it is probably all textile. It is just a little bit further along the road from Vitsetzou. More recent reports (2004) question whether this is a suitable place for nudism. For much of its length the back of the beach is used as a road to the campsite. One Barefoot correspondent did swim naked there at the far end. Some other people arrived and didn't seem to mind, but then some older people arrived and it didn't seem comfortable.
This beach apparently used to be the most popular beach on the island, but a few years ago the winter storms washed away a lot of sand and dumped some large boulders on the beach. So now, not many people go there. Nonetheless it is quite an acceptable beach. It is quite a long beach of grey sand and the boulders aren't a problem. There are no facilities and no shade. When a Barefoot reporter arrived there on a boat tour, there was nobody else there apart from those from our boat and even then we only occupied one end, so it seems nudism would be possible here. There are boats to this beach advertised at the port, and it's no doubt possible to get there by taking a long walk.
June 2010: On the very South of the Island you reach it with a 30 minutes walk from Livadi.
It is a wild arid beach, under some cliffs, with nice white pebbles, grey sands, crystal waters, a big rock in the sea to swim to. No shade at all!
Rather isolated - you can stay naked as long as you like. When some tourists come with the “easy” boats the crowd can become textile mixed.
We visited this beach in mid-June 2011, and we were about 6 nudists and the rest were all textiles.
End of July 2013: very nice beach but it was full of a crowd who visited the beach with the boats…100% textile!!!!
Late August 2014: we came early in the morning by foot. As long as you come early and until the boats arrive, you can have a lot of space and the beach is fantastic. There was just one couple when we arrived, the man was naked, the woman topless. It looks this is a trend in many beaches we went this year, expecially among Greek young couples. After the arrival of the boat the few of us naked were surrounded by textiles, and my wife didn't feel comfortable to stay naked. I tried to resist among them but then I had to give up. It's a pity, the beach is probably the best.
Middle of August 2015: Few nudis but no problem.
September 2015: The finest sand among the beaches we visited (unfortunately our trip was mainly restricted to the southern beaches due to heavy meltemi). Extremely clean considering the fact that it is a "wild" beach. The walk from Livadi is very nice if you do it in the morning which is recommended anyway in order to have the beach for yourself. After 11 am the boats start arriving and it becomes a little crowded. We left around 12:30 (after three hours it was time for a beer anyway). Unfortunately no tavern (on the other hand this may be good - if there were one this beautiful beach might be spoiled…)
This is based on a report from September 2005. Vorina is a beach on the north side of Folegandros approximately halfway between Chora and the turn that leads to Angali. From Chora head to Angali, go past the windmills on your right hand side, (Vorina bay is just below the windmills - to their north) a little further you will meet a chapel just by the road on your left. Just across the road there is a small clearing, where in high season you might see parked mopeds.
Park there and start walking down the most obvious path between the short drystone walls. A bit further down 70m approx. from the parking spot turn left to the steeper descent, which you will soon realise is a man-made path with dry-stone steps. The beach is a 160m descent and it takes around 20 minutes to go down and… a lot of effort to climb back up in the middle of the day! However once nearly down to the beach you will realise there is a smaller beach on the left and a large one on the right. Take your pick. The beach when my contributor visited was 50% nudist but the only clothed bathers were 3 young couples who did not mind at all.
Go to this beach only if the wind blows from west, south west or south, or you might face unpleasant waves. Sand with pebbles on the beach, large rounded stones in the sea, snorkelling recommended. Further to the left there are some interesting rocks to which you can swim (when the sea is calm) or climb… if you want to be alone.
Due to the fact that it is a northern beach you might find plenty of flotsam at the edge of the beach towards the slope, but do not let it put you off. It is a difficult beach to reach and it is unlikely to attract the tourist hordes. For the same reason the beach - though not a long one - is usually quiet. Take lots of water - save some for the climb up - and some form of shade (half tent or umbrella). My contributor rates the beach 50%.
Late 2014: Maybe the best if you want to find your spot and not be afraid of the boat invasions. What amazed us is the fantastic warm water, the landscape looks like you are away from everything, the colour of the big cliffs are green and the beach is pink with some green. The ground is mostly covered with algae. There is only a spot with tar, unfortunately just the one we placed, it was a beautiful spot though. We came early and we were alone, then another couple came and, although it seems they never bathed naked, they did. After a while came a group of Italian young people and they dressed, so we remained the only naked. The other people came and they walked past us. I mean, coming from the path, turn to the left, then go past the rocks. You find a little cove that fit two or three couples. Looks like naturists stay there. On another day we came after 5 pm, there were 3 couples, one with the guy naked and the woman topless. The sun comes down very early here though, so it's better in the morning.
September 2015: Come early! The steep path is a challenge under the midday sun and after around 11 it may be crowded, especially when southerly winds blow. We went there around 9 am and there was only another (nude) couple. After 11, people (textile) started arriving every 5-10 minutes or so and the two donned their swimwear. We ourselves left for a beer which was dearly needed after the hot ascent.
At the North extremity of the island, it is now reachable with a dirt, wide but steep, road. The beach is not so wide, with some boat garages, a few trees, nice pebbles and sand but because of the position it catches easily the pollution of the sea, meaning also some boat-oil on the surface of the waters. It’s a pity because it is rather quiet and therefore with a nudism possibility.
Middle of August 2015: I spent some relaxing hours naked there. very relaxing place
End of July 2013: in the middle of the path from Agali to Agios Nikolaos you will find a very small beach with small and large pebbles, it's called Galifos. Very relaxing atmosphere; some campers and some naturist… we felt quite comfortable to go nude although there was a sign that forbade nudism… the only bad thing was that the path above was heavily used by all the people who go to Agios Nikolaos….
Late August 2014: Although we did not use the beach personally we passed it every day on the way back from Ag Nikolaos and there were always one or two nudists typically on the rocks at the right of the beach.
I can confirm it, there are rooms for rent above that are very spartan, no electricity! and very cheap; people that stay there use this beach, they are like free campers and should stay naked if not a lot of people pass there to go to the other beach. In the late afternoon it is possible there are more people naked. Anyway this beach is not so good in my personal opinion.
The best deal in the high season is to go to Fira or to Vorinna.