Antiparos

Antiparos is a small, relatively unspoiled island with some splendid nudist beaches. The official nudist beach is arguably the principal one, and some of the others mentioned in this report are often used by local people who do not bare all.

It is easy to get to Antiparos by boat from Paros town (Parikia) by a regular ferry which leaves by the windmill (very cheap). Or you can take the regular public car ferry which goes from Pounda, about 5 miles to the south of the town, reached by bus or taxi. Antiparos is a peaceful place to stay, even though the town boasts 2 discos and 50 or so bars.

See also Antiparos Beaches - part of the "Isle strolling in Greece" site - for more info and photographs of some of the beaches.

The official nudist beach

See the Official Nudist Beach on Google Maps

The main nudist beach is located about 10 minutes' walk north from the town quay. Follow the signs towards the camp site, past the Argo Taverna. There is a beach just to the right of the camp site known as Camping Beach. If you proceed around the small headland to the right you will come to a smaller beach which is the officially designated nudist beach; this one is known as Theologians (so that if you want to tell your friends how you spent your holidays, you say you have been "practising theology")! A large painted sign declares that this is an official nudist beach. The Captain understands it was the first designated nudist beach in Greece, dating from 1969. There is a volleyball area; the water is warm and shallow. One hears it is sometimes possible to hire windsurfers, and that nude windsurfing in the shallow warm water is very enjoyable. Some people think it is the best beach in the whole of Paros and Antiparos.

In early summer 2012 there are two things to report. Over the winter, the path that used to lead to the beach along the seashore has been washed away. It is now necessary to walk through the dunes just behind the beach and come down through the volleyball court. The remains of the former nudist sign still sprawled defiantly on the rocks. However a new sign has appeared on the beach itself proclaiming that it is an official nudist beach. Furthermore the municipal rubbish bin placed at the entrance has also been labelled nudist. When we were there it was virtually 100% nudist. Indeed one textile family who came down to the beach cowered unhappily at the far end. I would say that all those wearing clothes on the beach were nudists either leaving or covering up because of the sun. There was a very happy atmosphere on the beach. One Italian lady told me that she came here from the south of the island because it was so calm and peaceful. September 2013, 100% nudist again.

The Captain has received various different reports about the name of this beach. In the end it really doesn't matter - just find your way there, strip off and enjoy it. If in doubt, it's the beach closest to the offshore islands.

It is one of three (I think) officially dedicated nudist beaches in Greece. A shame, then, that one hears that during the high season a large number of textiles use the beach.

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The Official Nudist Beach is a piece of sandy land projecting into the channel between Antiparos island and Diplo island. It has an undulating water line and is about 75m long with a water line to beach top varying from 2m to 30m with dunes extending for at least 30m. The beach consists of gritty golden sand mixed with thousands of tiny shells at the water line. 50m to the east there is another nudist beach with similar sand type. This beach tends to get weed on the beach. There are no facilities on these beaches and no shade, but Antiparos town is a ten minute walk away. The beaches were litter free. Access to the water on the main beach is easy and is very shallow for some distance. There is little or no current between the two islands and the water is very safe, even for small children. Some good snorkelling can be found at the eastern and western ends of the beach. It is possible to wade most of the way to Diplo island, with only a short swim for the last 10m or, if you take the right route - curving slightly to the right as you face Diplo, then turning towards the left midway, you can wade all the way. Only goats inhabit this small island and wonderful nude walking is possible, but the Official Nudist Beach on Antiparos is superior for comfort and access to the water.

The beach was almost 100% nudist (June 2003) with a fantastic naturist atmosphere. There were about 60 individuals on this beach; there were many families, some couples and a few single male and female bathers. Occasionally, an aged nudist hippie sells hand-made trinkets on the beach and although we didn’t experience it on this visit, in the past you could have a colourful wrap put in your hair by a dreadlocked nude man. This beach does not have the facilities of some other beaches but for some contributors this beach is the epitome of naturism. Everyone co-existing in harmony with each other and the environment, children playing happily without a care for stuffy convention, parents able to relax, safe in the knowledge that their kids are in no danger. My contributors score this beach 100%.

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A report from August 2003 describes a superb atmosphere much better than previous years though the beach was very crowded (approx 100 mid-afternoon of which 80% were nude). Regular visit of ice-cream van mid-afternoon (nude queuing de rigueur) very welcome. The walk across to the island of Diplo was popular and a nude stroll there undertaken by at least 20 people each day my contributors were there.

Contrary to earlier reports, the campsite only a few hundred metres away from the beach is now (June 2006) said to be very good with perfectly clean ("immaculate" in one contributor's word) toilets and showers. They also have a nice mini-market and a taverna with pretty good food, so there is no need to go down to the village for lunch.

The Captain's experience is not as wholly positive as that of some of my contributors. I do have some memories of very agreeable days there. But the last time I was there (late June 2003) the beach was crowded and noisy, with a higher proportion of textiles than you would expect on an official nudist beach (a group of bikini-clad girls planted themselves within literally a couple of metres of our beach shelter and chatted noisily, commenting among other things that they were on the wrong beach). We gave up and went for an ice cream in the town …

Others, mainly during peak season, have reported similarly disappointing experiences. One contributor reports being greatly outnumbered by textiles during August 2007, including irritating sniggering teenagers.

An ice-cream and refreshments van (a Kantina) arrived regularly at about 3.45 pm. People queued up without bothering to dress. (But it didn't appear when the Captain visited in June 2003).

Part of the beach is becoming overgrown with coarse grass. There is also evidence of a litter problem (can't smokers take their fag-ends with them?). That reduces the rating I would give to the beach but it is still 90%. According to a correspondent who visited the island earlier in 1998, the big problem with the Theologians beach is the north wind - the Meltemi, the perpetual problem of the Greek islands. The official beach is very exposed, and consequently it was found empty on several days in June. The beaches to the south of the town do not suffer these problems and are always swimmable when the official beach is not.

A correspondent who visited at about the same time as me described the beach as dirty and very littered, and not a pleasant place to sunbathe even though 90%+ were nude. Well, there's room for more than one opinion about that.

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A recent report I have received sums up this beach by saying its character changes according to the time of summer and the time of day. When the students are on holiday, nudists can be in a minority.
The trick seems to be to have your holiday before the end of August, to try to dodge some of the Meltemi and the hordes of young Greeks who holiday in August. I could see the change happening while I was there. Antiparos Camping gets taken over by Greek kids in August.

There's a broad demographic of both ages and nationalities, which is nice, and even a few Greek nudists. It is absolutely perfect for nudist families and kids, and a great pleasure to see some of these running around. There's singles and couples of various descriptions, too.

It has to be one of the most friendly beaches anywhere. One nudist gave me his theory for why this is so - it goes like this: the Camping Beach is a convex beach, it curves outwards into the sea. This is quite rare - nearly all beaches are concave (curving inwards) beaches. Because of this shape and the smallness of the beach, people seem to be pushed together and keep bumping into one another. Because there's no for-rent deck chairs, people don't have to sit in the same spot and can move around quite a bit, so they can sit next to each other for a while and then move. People don't make new friends as much on big, anonymous, concave beaches.

Geologically, the beach is a bit of a mystery. Why should a neck of sand project out into the sea? I think the answer must be that this is the point where the currents that surround both the island of Diplo and Antiparos itself, meet, and it is here that they drop their sand and this is why the peninsula is building up and why the sand is so mixed. Has anyone any better explanation?

Besides litter, which is becoming a real problem all over Greece, the one issue is the Meltemi. The beach can be very windy too, but you can always find a nice spot out of the wind in the dunes behind the beach. However, it doesn't blow solidly all the time, and it keeps temperatures down. You can live with it.

It will be apparent that visitors to this beach have mixed views about it. Two reports from August 2004 suggest that after all the praise given to this beach in this Guide, the reality was disappointing. There were a few nudists (say 10) amidst the huge hordes of young Greek textiles on the first beach (nearest Camping Antiparos). The second beach had about 5 nudists but hordes of young Greek textile males descended as the afternoon progressed to play ball games right on top of my contributors. The second report speaks of the beach heaving with more textiles than naked people despite the sign. Very strange and uncomfortable atmosphere with dogs and kids running around. The beach was best described as scruffy and messy, lot of litter and my contributors felt most uncomfortable to the point of not going back after only one visit.

A report from August 2006 - high season, of course - says that sadly, this beach is not what it once was. There are a small number of diehards from the old days who still hang out here every year, but the reality is the numbers of nudists are now quite small. There are no 100% nudist families there anymore - always at least one member is textile. Also, all the beaches on the island are becoming dirty indeed - there is an alarming amount of plastic debris and cigarette butts on Camping beach. Yet another report from September 2006 said it was 100% nudist most days.
In July 2007 it was 80% nudist, but there was a much higher proportion of men than women.

A report from 2009:

We have been visiting Antiparos once or twice a year for about 10 years. We sometimes stay for up to 4 weeks. Our visit in August 2009 will be our last. The signs for the official naturist beach had been removed and along with maybe 10 naturists we felt very uncomfortable. It was 99% clothed. Local businessmen that I know all said they no longer wanted a naturist beach.

As you continue walking west and you go to the little sandy cove behind the rocks, it's a matter of who sets the trend. Sometimes it was 100% naturists but for 3 days in a row when I went there at about 12 noon or 2 pm, it was 100% textile, mainly with Greek students or families. And they were not locals. It's a shame that people don't respect the fact that these are nudist beaches and they make naturists feel uncomfortable.

The van selling water and soft drinks is there from early morning to about sunset.

If the wind is blowing try walking across the rocks to the right, where there are said to be more sheltered areas.
Names are confusing - an apartment/taverna complex called "Theologos Beach" fronts onto Aghios Spiridon Beach - the naturist beach is about 10 min. walk from the back of those apartments. Follow signs for "Camping Antiparos" & then turn right after you've passed the main gate.

Well worth a visit despite the smallness of the beach. Some 15 min. walk from the town centre.

Famous for 1.5 Minutes

Early reports said that every day at about 15.30 the sightseeing boat, run by local fishermen, which circles the island, went past full of tourists. Of course some gawped and photographed. However, most were nonchalant. This has never happened when the Captain was present and I do not know if it is still an issue. (But it remains a mystery why so many textiles seem to need to go to a naturist beach in order to find out what naked people look like.)
September 2013, the sightseeing boat is still there, now at 16.10.

Recent reports:

In late June the painted sign with "Official nudist beach" is present, and there is a large majority of fully naked people on the beach. A nice mix of singles of both sexes, and couples of all ages. There are some guests who are fully or partly clothed, but everybody enjoys the beach and the atmosphere is great. The beach is very clean and beautiful!

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Diplo and Kavouras

See on Google Maps

Many correspondents say that nude walks on Diplo island are a must, especially at the end of the day, before sunset, when the rocks show their real colours (white, pale rose and yellow , superb!!). You can wade most of the way (the shallow path is in a V-shape: slightly to the right leaving the beach, then slightly to the left halfway across to the island). But look out for sea urchins if wading barefoot - the Captain hasn't seen any but look out nonetheless.

The Captain has been to the Official Beach several times and on his first visit made across it to Diplo island and started off up the path behind the shelter, but quickly found it heavy going in bare feet. This necessitated a return across the water to collect the beach sandals (take the hint: you will definitely need footwear). On returning to Diplo it was possible to walk right to the far end of the island, passing a couple of good-looking, and totally deserted, beaches. It also is possible to walk the even narrower channel from Diplo to the next island (Kavouras).

This was a marvellous naturist experience: standing on the spectacular cliffs at the western side of Diplo, naked except for my flip-flops, knowing that the nearest clothes were on a different island. I now well understand why one of my correspondents described this as "like Eden with sandals".

A note of warning, though: if you visit Diplo in the middle of the day do not forget your sun cream! And, at the height of the day in the hottest part of summer, a hat might be a good idea if it doesn't offend your naturist credentials.

Lastly, don't make the mistake I made and attempt the circumnavigation. When you get to the end of the path (at the cliffs), turn back and return the same way. Walking through the fields on the south of Diplo is difficult and unrewarding, with no clear path, and lots of prickly vegetation to scratch your legs. I also found myself yearning for something with which to mop my brow!

And be aware that at any time on Diplo you can be joined by clothed people or the odd goat!

Other Barefooters have enjoyed similar experiences. One Barefoot (literally, as it turns out) reporter says this: "The highlight of my Antiparos trip was wading over to Diplo and spending all afternoon walking in the nude, with not a soul in sight (early June). Then continuing over to Kavouras for walks around the salt flats - no beaches on either island but shallow, warm water to lie in. Great feeling knowing you can go totally nude (ditched the sandals too) and not have to keep a look-out for textiles."


West of the official beach

If you continue walking from the nudist beach along the coastline to the west, you arrive at a little beach behind the rocks, almost completely surrounded by rocks. Although there are some houses on the rocks, a lot of people went there for naked sunbathing and swimming.

When the Captain was there the beach immediately in front of the camp site was deserted except for a couple of fishermen. It also attracted litter and looked highly unattractive by comparison with the official nudist beach. I fear that earlier reports may have confused the two beaches.


Sunset beach

See on Google Maps

Sifnaikos (also known as Sunset Beach) is in a pretty bay still further west, where the water is just as shallow and warm. It is possible to continue walking to the right of the bay around several rocky headlands to find some small two-person sandy bays. This beach is very close to the edge of the town. Although correspondents have described it as "totally nude" (rating it at 97%) it was deserted when I visited. More recent reports suggest that this beach is now totally textile.

A report from September 2006 says this is a 'pretty' enough location, but we thought rather a scruffy beach. Totally deserted, and my contributors thought the description given in Frewin Poffley's Greek Island Hopping quite apt - '….windswept and with an abandoned air, it is the place for contemplating the meaning of life (and what one is doing with it) and for quietly drowning oneself if one isn't happy with the conclusions'……! Oh dear.


Psaraliki beaches

There are three other beaches - the Psaraliki beaches - about 10 mins walk just south of the town, following the road towards Agios Georgios.

There are two methods of getting to this beach.

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Leaving Andiparos town on the southerly coast road continue for about 1.5km until you see a taverna near the sea on the left. Take the road on the left that leads to this taverna and take the short easy path to the beach.

Or, follow the easy coastal path south from Antiparos town for about 2km (passing a textile beach) until you see a taverna and take the short path to the beach. This is Psaraliki 1.

The first Psaraliki beach is a family textile beach full of beach tennis and windsurfing and boat rents. Older reports suggested that this beach was narrow and smelly. However according to a July 2006 report naturists congregated at the far south of the beach, right before the rocks started.

Psaraliki 2, walking along the coves, is totally nude, and well worth visiting. This beach is 100m long and 5m from water to beach top. It consists of fine golden sand with some pebbles here and there. There are facilities at the near-by taverna and there is shade to be found under tamarisk trees that grow over the beach at several places. Access to the water is easy, but caution must be exercised because of the presence of sea urchins and rocks close to the shore at some places. Apart from this the water shelves gradually and the snorkelling is good close to shore.

The beach is certainly narrow, but the sand is said to be fine and the swimming good. A report from July 2005 confirms it is nude and mixed at the most southern end near the marine Time bar. Mostly Scandinavian families. But the beach is stony, and not good for lying on. Beach beds were available to rent. The water is shallow but deep enough to swim in within reasonable walking distance. Sometimes there are a few nudists at the southern end and sometimes they are along the whole beach, depending on how busy it is. In July 2006 it was 100% nude with a wonderful atmosphere. In early September 2006 it was no more than 25% nude, with any naturists being at the southern end.
In July 2007 it was almost wholly textile, but there were still some nudes at the southern end.

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Following the rock-seaside-path, early in the morning (about 11 am) it is possible to find a two-person sandy bay ("just for lovers", says my French correspondent, whose colourful contributions to this page I have much enjoyed…)

In June 2003 the beach was 70% nudist, mostly couples and a few single people. The textiles included a Greek family who didn’t seem at all bothered that they shared a beach with nudists.

This was an attractive beach with nearby facilities, with easy access and scored 85%.

The third Psaraliki beach, Psaraliki 3, is a bit further, following the seaside path. It is not as long as the other two, and it is possible to camp there, in the tree shadow, too. My correspondent described it as his favourite beach, sand-stone mixed, a little wind, the island of Paros in front of, and other Cyclades far in the panorama. A report from July 2005 confirms it is also nude and mixed. Barefoot reporters went nude at the end nearest the road but there were others in the midst of the clothed families and nobody had any objections. There is also a lovely taverna just behind the beach. This beach is more sandy than number 2 beach and can be reached via a short drive along the road south of the town and parking in front of the taverna or a longish walk along number 2 beach and continuing along the rocks around the headland. In early September 2006 it was 50% nude. The taverna did not appear to be operating (no signs either at the beach or the road above), and neither the path from the road nor the couple of houses near the beach were inhibiting nudism. Another September 2006 report said this beach was generally 75% naturist. Trees give plenty of shade; beach is soft sand shelving gently into water. The taverna was far enough away not to cause difficulties.

The Captain understands this beach is also called Perigiali; the long sandy stretch with trees for shade is a wonderful beach and at its far end naturists can be naked without problem. Just wonderful.

June 2014: Although there were a few naturists in the little coves between Psaraliki 2 and 3, and one brave naked couple at the far end of Psaraliki 3, these three beaches were all pretty much textile according to a correspondent who visited then.


Soros valley

Soros Valley lies along the main road to Ag. Georgios, after the Apandima cross. See Soros on Google Maps

It is, one hears, a "VIP" place for new villas in Greece. There is a sign indicating "NO CAMPING - NO NUDISM" and other information on the taverna at the beach. There is more than one beach there. As they are exposed to the south east they are blown by the Meltemi wind somewhat. There is a rough path (practicable with jeeps or motorcycles) leading to three beaches which my correspondent visited. They are made of little multicoloured "soft" pebbles; the water is always clear and, under the water, there is a wonderful panorama.

The first beach (following the coast in the direction of Ag. Georgios) is the medium-sized one, clothing optional. The second is the main and the bigger beach, with a cheap taverna 100 metres inland, a little jetty in the middle that divides the beach in two parts, and the Soros valley at the shoulder. Clothing is optional at the "north" side. This side is shaded by rocks, so early in the afternoon, there is no sun. The third is the smallest, and could be reached by climbing a little. It is a "four people size beach", with green stones! My correspondent visited three times and was always alone. But … someone is building a house on the path, so maybe next summer it will be a private beach…

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If you follow the track south from the village of Soros for about 2.5 kilometres, the beach at Agh. Sostis Bay is on the east side. On the two days (in September 2008) the bay was visited it was fairly quiet. One textiled couple on seeing the contributor and his wife going into the sea in the scud went back to the shore, removed their swimming gear and went back into the sea au naturel.

September 2012: If you take the road from Soros towards the southern most tip of the island there are three small bays Peramataki, Livadhi and then Sostis. Sostis is the nicest and easiest to find. If you reach a small sandy beach to the left of the road you have reached Sostis as the other two are off the road along rough tracks and consist of small pebbles. We spent a day on Sostis and one on Livadhi. We were alone and completely undisturbed all day on Livadhi and shared Sostis with only two or three couples all day. There is minimal shelter on any beach and no facilities so water is a must. The roads are rough so a 4x4 is preferable but well worth the effort.

See Ormos Ag Sostis on Google Maps


Agios Georgios

There is another beach to the south of the island, at Agios Georgios, but it sports big notices - No campers, no nudists! Nevertheless, when the Captain visited, one of the three people on the beach there was nude. It appears that large areas of land have been cleared here, probably for development as a major new tourist resort.
More recent reports say this beach is 100% textile.

September 2012: There are many small bays at Agios Georgios strung out beside the rough road that runs along beside the sea. Although nudism is not official if you arrive early enough the first one in a cove sets the scene. In any case you could always move along to the next cove. They are mainly sand and pleasant to sit on and the two tavernas on the front at Agios Georgios are great with seafood as a speciality.

See Agios Georgios and Despotiko on Google Maps

Despotiko

The Captain hears that the beach on the island Despotiko, facing Agios Georgios (in the south of Antiparos) is a great beach. You can get there by fisherboat. Ask Captain Pipinos in his tavern. This Captain would welcome further reports!

2012: The trip to Despotico is wonderful and well worth the time and 20 Euros. Go to the two tavernas on the waterfront at Agios Georgios and ask for Captain Pipinos. There is a sign with his mobile on it. He will usually book you in for a trip a day or two in advance with trips in the morning and pick up in the late afternoon. He will drop you off at a landing point opposite Agios Georgios from where you can visit the Ancient Temple of Apollo and then pick you up again and drop you off close to a narrow sandy beach that was completely deserted when we visited so we could sunbathe nude all afternoon. Someone has put up umbrellas on the beach so there is shade but food and water are essential. A wonderful day in the buff and the good captain will pick you up at a pre-arranged time. We actually phoned him to put back our pick-up by an hour it was such bliss. The trip finishes off with a trip to the local sea arch before heading back to Agios Georgios and a seafood dinner. Lovely.


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Livadia

See Livadia on Google Maps

One contributor says this is one of the better clothing-optional beaches on Antiparos. It is about 6km from the town and the last part of the road is very rough but negotiable if very careful in a car (although 4x4 or car with high clearance would be better).
The far end of the beach away from where you park the car is more sheltered even when the winds are blowing quite strongly. As the beach is on the west coast it does have real waves that break and can be body-surfed when the wind is blowing - particularly in August, when it is especially prone to it. On calm days it is excellent.

The beach itself is of medium quality sand and there is quite a lot of seaweed which can be a problem when the waves are dominant.

As the beach is remote, and no taverna or shops in sight it tends to attract locals and those wanting to get away from the crowds. Nudity is accepted right along the beach although those without clothes tend to congregate at the far end away from the car park. At this end, the beach is shallower and more sandy right into the sea. The beach closer to the car park does have rocky spots in it close to the shore which may catch the unwary.

It is possible to walk along the coastline a long way in the nude and I did this on most days for at least 30 minutes in each direction.

My French correspondent sends me a lovely report, which I am happy to quote verbatim:

"As I really like to walk nude, I have been able to make a 2 hours trip from the southern end of Sunset beach (Sifnaikos), following the trail on the coast line; I had to cover up for a while, when I met 2 ladies who seemed to practise yoga, but I continued, even if the trail disappeared, because it's easy to follow one of the various goats tracks everywhere on the hills. I have just seen from far an old farmer riding his donkey. The western shore of Antiparos is very quiet, without houses. After 2 or 3 places good enough for a swim, I finished by climbing a hill, maybe 150-200 m over the sea level, and discovered from the top the beach of Livadia. It is a 400 m long crescent sandy beach, separated in two parts by small rocks with a wall, exposed to the North. So at that time it was windy, and there were good waves, reminding me my native Atlantic shores, which could maybe even allow body boarding, but also strong currents. The last (southern) fourth of the beach is more protected from the wind, and wild camping is possible. As I arrived there was only ten people on the beach, all nude. The day after, it was the same, except for the campers, but late in the afternoon some textiles arrived. This beach may be used by local people (textiles), I don't know.
"This beach is located south-west of Antiparos port, about 8 km by the road, and 70 minutes walk. To go there, leaving the port, one should take the road to the cave and Agia Georgios. Just before leaving the village, at a crossroad next to the gas station, one should turn to the right, following the signpost Livadia. The good and recently improved road stop halfway, after the second church, and continues as a dusty road, but okay for cars and motorcycles. Continue straight, between fields and few houses, until you see the beach; turn left at the last cross-trails (neologism ??): it goes evidently to the beach. This could be a good alternative to the Psaraliki beaches, even if the nearest taverna is a bit far! Worth the visit!!"

Sounds wonderful, doesn't it?

Another contributor thought walking would take at least 2 hours as the terrain is very rough and unmarked. You would also probably need someone to pick you up at Livadia if you walked there or to drop you off if you wanted to walk back to town. Water is definitely a must.

In September 1998, another correspondent tells me, this beach was virtually empty, indeed one day they saw nobody else apart from a few cows. Another day there were perhaps six other nudists present during the day. Such solitude was wonderful, the views from the cliffs on the southern were wonderful too. Take plenty to eat and drink since there is nothing en route!

In July 2003 my contributors went there twice, and there were never more than 6-8 people on the beach. The second time they were alone for a major part of the day.

This beach is not easy to find. To get there by car or motorcycle from the harbour, follow the road to the cave for 4km and take the paved road to the right, there is a stone building opposite the road to take. There are no signs at all. Follow the paved road for 2.1 km until you reach a T-junction, the paved road continues to the right, but take a left turn onto the dirt track, continue until you see a painted sign indicating the direction of the beach. The last few metres are pretty steep, and you may have to leave your car at the top if you do not feel secure going all the way down.

There is a lot of seaweed and some debris washed ashore, but it is wonderfully quiet.

2012: The road has been improved and should now be taken from just outside Antiparos town and not down to the road to the cave. The road forks right just south of the town as the main road bears left and is clearly signposted. We found the beach virtually empty when we visited it. On the first occasion the wind was directly on-shore and the surf was up. Nude body surfing is really quite fun but the breeze virtually destroyed our beach tent, whips up the sand and drives the weed into the shallow water. On the second occasion it was calm and a different beach but just as pleasant. The beach is divided naturally in two by a low rock ridge two-thirds of the way along the beach. It is more private beyond the ridge where there is also some well-needed shade. We also took a nude walk for 30 minutes up above this side of the beach onto the cliffs overlooking the west side of the island - wonderful but best to wear something on your feet. Water and a bite to eat if staying all day are essential as there is no taverna.


Meghala Monasteria

Meghala Monasteria on Google Maps

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I think the reason why the road to Livadia has been improved is because an Italian entrepreneur has bought-up land for a vineyard in the bay just south of Livadia called Meghala Monasteria. The road to this beach is off to the left before you reach Livadia (this left turn is signposted but only in greek) and winds off into the hills on the western side of the island. The road is not for the faint-hearted as it quickly turns rough and the signposts disappear but if you stay on the more obvious track you will get there. The road forks at one point, take the left fork, the right fork through some gate posts appears to go to a tip! The road winds steeply down to the bay and then skirts the vineyard to the beach. The bay is beautiful, slowly shelving and great for snorkelling but was frequented by a significant number of local families so we did not go naked although one of the Italian workers from the vineyard had no such inhibitions, but he was the only one.

In June 2013 we were there alone all day. It was quite windy at the time and it was a little uncomfortable on some of the beaches on the island, but due to the depth of the bay this beach was sheltered and the waves were relatively gentle.
The track down to the beach is steep and loose gravel, definitely 4X4 country. We hired a quad bike which was excellent (but make sure you get a 325cc model as a 50cc may struggle to pull two of you up the hills on your return).
In our view the best beach on the island by far, especially if you want to get away from the crowds.

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