TRAFOULAS/TRAHULAS
Barefoot reporters tell me about a beach situated east of Lentas. On explorecrete.com it's also referred to as Psili Ammos. Other web searches suggest the alternative spellings Trafoulas and Trahulas. Apparently it is also known as Dragon Bay.
It is accessible from the villages of Lentas and Krotos. Though the way from Krotos is shorter, if you're coming from the north, it is not recommended because it is unmade and quite narrow and does not provide many choices in case a car is coming the opposite way.
So, here are the directions from Lentas village: On your way to Lentas, just before you enter the village there is an unmade road leading to the east which has several signs that show the way to Loutra beach, Petrakis beach, and several tavernas and apartments. Follow this road. After a 15-20 minute drive you'll arrive at a recently constructed small port (which is actually a shelter for the fishing boats). Continue driving uphill and once you've reached the top of this hill (Lat=34.931682N, Lon=24.95727E), park your car there (you'll probably see more cars parked).
The road continues up the mountain to the village of Krotos (and this is actually the alternative road mentioned above). From this point you can see the end of the Trahulas Gorge that ends in Trahulas beach.
Follow the (kind of steep) path leading to the bottom of the gorge (be careful!) and continue walking through the gorge to get yourself to the beach (Lat=34.926441N, Lon=24.959179E):
It is an approximately 15-20 minutes walk.
The beach is quite long with tiny pebbles and some smooth rocks in the middle, and the water is very clear. It seems to be protected from the western winds that usually blow in this area. It is a naturist beach with very few textiles visiting occasionally.
The only drawbacks are that there is almost no shade during the sun peak hours (approx 12.00-16.00). Also, there are no facilities, so you'll need to bring your own water, etc.
On the east part of the beach there are 4 caves, 2 high on the cliffs (one of them seemed to be the shelter of a couple that seemed to spend their holidays there) and 2 at the beach. They can offer some sort of protection from the sun, provided that there are not occupied by someone else. What is more, the cliffs at the eastern part seem to be suitable for climbing and there are marks that they have been used for this purpose (there are some "hooks" on some cliffs).
My reporter gives a very high rating to this beach, because it has this "away from everything" feeling, it is not crowded, it is very clean and the water is great. Definitely worth visiting.
Another Barefooter who was there in September 2006 says this is a wonderful beach, better than Dytiko. Some 250 metres in width there were maybe 20 or 25 folk there during the course of the day - 90% nude. Take care if there are large breakers as there is a very strong undercurrent. Also take water and drinks supplies as the nearest taverna is 2 kilometres back on the dirt road.
edit by greek_nut: I visited the beach in July 2008. The way down the small Trachulas gorge can be quite steep at some places, so be extra careful, especially when carrying things like camping stuff with you. The left part of the beach is suitable for going nude, and that is the beach in front of the caves. Occasionally dressed people may come over that part out of curiosity or to see the caves, but they do not seem to be bothered by nudity. The right part of the beach is often full of locals in swim-suits. Shade during the hot hours is zero, so bring at least an umbrella with you. Very clear and cool water. If you swim by night you will experience the phenomenon of bioluminescence!!!!!!!
About 15-20 visitors were in the beach in June of 2010, about 50% nude. Nudist couples could be found in both left and right part of the beach. It is not recommended to visit the beach on weekends because it is visited by a lot of Greek campers (mostly textile) in these days.
Aris Petrakis beach
The Captain hears reports of a deserted beach just to the East of Lendas, secluded by rocks.
Take the dirt track east out of Lentas for about 1 kilometre and there is a sign pointing right to Anatoli. After 500 metres park at the car park for the two tavernas. The beach starts in front of the first taverna and stretches 400 metres east. Walk along the beach for 100 metres and you will find a group of rocks which provide an excellent screen from the rest of the beach. A good destination near Lentas if you do not like long way to Trahulas.
A report from the summer of 2005 confirms this, and describes it as a very nice beach with very clean water. Another from September 2006 says once clear of the taverna there were maybe 20 folk on the beach and coves, with 80% in the nude.
A report from August 2007 gives the beach a low rating; there were a handful of old couples; about 50 % nude, and the beach was uninspiring.
In one of the days in June 2010 the beach looked very nice but was empty.
Diskos (near Lendas)
I am told that this beach is one of the most "traditional" naturist beaches in Crete. Until a few years back there were a lot of hippies that went nude even to the tavernas of the area. This beach is named Diskos and I think that with this name it is signed in most maps, but lately there has been put a sign that says "Dytikos". Anyway, it doesn't really matter, because locals still refer to it as "Diskos" (stress the "o").
Diskos is a gulf west of the Lendas village at the southern part of the Heraklion province. Lendas village is picturesque enough, but the beach is not worth visiting. Before you enter Lendas, you should see an asphalt road leading to the right. Follow it: Diskos is about 1 km away - at the west side of the headland you see in front of you. "Dytikos" means "Western". The western and central part of the beach was occupied by naturist wild campers when my correspondents visited in June 1999; however entry/exit into the water over the rock shelf can be dangerous, especially if the wind is blowing. Note that the signs entering the villages have the spellings "Lentas" and "Dytiko".
The eastern end (east of the tavernas) was the most traditional nudist beach with nice sand and even a volleyball net. It was nude although completely overlooked from the closest "Voula" Diskos beach taverna. Even the sea bed is sand in this part. The central part of the beach, closest to the tavernas but mostly hidden from them by trees, was primarily nude. Under the trees were many tents.
This part of the beach is sandy, but in the sea (except from the very west end) there are some slippery rocks, while the sea bed shelves quickly, so be careful. Opposite the central part are two or three tavernas located at the road upside the slope and hidden from the beach by trees. Sitting on a taverna you cannot normally see people on the beach with the exception of the Voula taverna from where you overlook the eastern part of the beach. There is a huge NO NUDISM sign painted on a wall (when the Captain visited, the only sign he saw was in German, to the effect "Please no naked bathing in front of the buildings", which seems at least polite). Nevertheless, although some reports suggest that nudism is not practised in the central part, other reports suggest that even directly below the Voula taverna (a little more to the east) most people were naked. My correspondents even saw a couple of young women sunbathing naked on the beach only about 50 m from and downstairs the Voula taverna.
In its central and western parts the beach is more stony and it is not so easy to walk barefoot. The western part of the beach has some parts of sand and some of rocks. Its great attraction is that you can find nice small beaches between the rocks and stones where you may be for yourself or together with only a few other nudists. My correspondents never explored this part to its end, but it was very nice to walk nude here and feel being part of a naturists' Eden.
Diskos is a very attractive beach because of its natural setting, its size and its completely nudist character. On this beach you have to search out the location you like, but you will find it!
The best taverna (and meeting point of everybody on the beach) is the Odysseas taverna. It is a self service taverna with reasonable prices (bottle of beer - 500 gdr) and good food. There is a mini market from where you can buy almost anything and a little "library" from where you can rent books. Most of the visitors are German. Generally, Diskos is a great place to relax, it's quiet and calm. The setting is rather dry and wild. A correspondent describes this as a good location if you want a simple relaxed atmosphere and clean rooms in the tavernas - but 30 kilometres away from anywhere else. My original correspondent thought Diskos had something that he couldn't exactly determine. Maybe it's the rumour that Nikos Kazantzakis (a famous Cretan author) wrote his last book in a cave at the headland that separates Lendas from Diskos.
Note that the road that leads from the Mesara plain to Lendas is not exactly a driver's paradise: although it's an asphalt road, it is an uphill road with many turns. It goes up the Asterousia mountains and then goes down again. But once you reach the top you'll see one of the best views of the Libyan sea.
Not everyone likes Diskos beach. A report from June 2001 says the water was murky and there was evidence that the sea had been used as a toilet. Another correspondent, in August 2005, also found it full of (textile) campers, and very dirty and untidy.
It was filled with free campers and the beach was not very clean. The beach is divided in half by the village. Dead center, there is an un-attractive place that rents rooms (this is the one which says "please no naked bathing in front of the buildings").. The people directly in front of this wall were clothed. To the left (with your back to the sea) is the Taverna Christina. It is set back 30 m from the beach. Often there were naked people directly in front of it. To the right is the Taverna Voula. There were naked people on the beach 30 m away from it. My contributors ate at the Taverna several times and you can clearly see naked people all the way to end of the beach. Basically, they ignored the sign and walked nude past these buildings to reach the other end of the beach.
They stayed at the Villa Tsarakis which was very nice. The owners also own the Taverna Odyesseas which seemed to be patronized by very rough looking gypsy/free camper/hippie types. My contributors walked in, and then back out again. They would not return to Diskos unless the beach were cleaned up.
In June 2001 there was a swell on the sea for several days which, because of the shelving nature of the beach and the undertow, meant that only the strongest swimmers actually went swimming: not suitable therefore for children old enough to let go of parents. But the beach was pleasant nonetheless.
A correspondent who visited during July 2001 explored the narrow track that follows the coast to the eastwards out of Lendas. Past the first headland they looked down on a small beach where a naturist group seemed to have found a nice spot with trees for shade. They continued until the track descended to sea level and enjoyed a refreshing swim from the rocks.
A number of Barefoot reporters have said that it is great to swim around the rocks to the east, where you can find a cave in which you can enjoy the sun with the pigeons that live there. But it is only accessible when there is no strong wind, because of the current in and out of the cave.
Kali Limenes
Reports reach the Captain of a nudist beach in Kali Limenes (see photos and description on http://www.angelfire.com/me4/greekislands/kali.html), best reached by road from Mires. My contributor says it is a lovely, long, white-coloured beach, one of the nicest beaches he has found in Crete. The village itself is small and tranquil, with just a few houses and fishing boats.
The Captain passed by here in September 2006 and didn't really share the view of the previous contributor. An offshore island was dominated by large oil tanks. There was a lot of wild camping on the beach, coupled with temporary shacks. The beach is grey rather than white and although, admittedly, deserted it did not seem to be the attractive spot hoped for. It was not attractive enough to stop. In the Captain's view it was completely outclassed by Kommos and others in the locality.
A Barefoot reporter shared this view, rating the beach "disgusting". It was backed all along by seemingly abandoned tatty caravans and tents. One grotty taverna on beach itself. The first thing they saw was a used sanitary towel and the garbage was everywhere, old tyres strewn along where fires had been lit. Such a shame because you could tell without this, it would be a beautiful beach.
If you visit Kali Limenes be sure to use the road from Mires rather than the route through the monastery, which is unmade after the monastery entrance.
Agiofarago
The gorge of Agiofarago starts from the road from Odigitria Monastery to Kali Limenes on the south coast of Iraklion and ends at the sea, west of Kali Limenes.
Drive to Moni Odigitrias via Siva and Listaros. Although most maps shows road from Listados to Moni Odigitrias as unpaved one, now it is good asphalted road. Continue your way going by Odigitrias using unpaved road to Kali Limenes (fortunately there are no other roads here). In 2.5 km turn to the right at "AGIOFARAGO" sign (Lat=34.948617N, Lon=24.795531E). Follow the dirt track to the end (about 2 km) and park your car here (Lat=34.937126N, Lon=24.781445E); the road is not a driver's paradise but acceptable for regular, not 4x4 car. A footpath continues along the river, through the canyon, and past the monastery church to the sea and takes about 20 minutes (1.5 km).
Driving via Kali Limenes is not recommended since the road is longer, worse and not signposted in Kali Limenes.
"Agiofarago beach" in September 2006, 60% of the people there were nude. The seabed was sandy with some pebbles. The beach has a lot of pebbles but a little bit higher on the shore there were sandy places. In the late afternoon there is some shade from the rocks. No food. No drinks No sunbeds at all. For fresh water you can go to the well near the church (did not work in 2010). Important notice - shadow of the rocks fully covers the beach by 5-6 pm. Do not expect to sunbathe here in the evening.
In 2010 the beach becomes more popular among textile families. It was about 30% nude.
Keep the place clean!
Matala
This has a famous beach right in the centre with a picturesque cliff face honeycombed with caves once inhabited by hippies. It is not used by naturists.
The Captain called here for lunch during September 1988 and formed the view that there were quite a lot of hippies still present, although they're now mostly in their 50s and 60s. By comparison with the 1960s no doubt things are a lot karma.
The Red Beach
The Red Beach is superb for nudists. It was the only Greek location featured on "The World's Best Nude Beaches" on the Sky Travel TV channel.
However getting there involves a steep climb followed by a steep descent. Walking distance is about 800-1000 m and the way takes about 20-30 min. The Captain has received some updated instructions for getting there. There are two ways to the beach:
Way 1 (short but more difficult).
When you arrive in Matala town you find Zafirias hotel at your left hand. Immediately after this hotel you will see a sign (see picture). Take a left here and follow this road. When the asphalt finishes park your car (if any) and keep on to the dirt track and you are on the right path. It climbs to 80m above sea level. However, a correspondent who visited in July 2003, says that the walk is very nice, and also his kids enjoyed the climb. There are certainly some good views!
Way 2 (easier than way 1 but longer).
This way is now used by most of the beach visitors. Continue through the town until you reach the sign on the left for the Red beach (see pictures). This way is very well signposted every 10 metres, leaving you no chance to get lost.
This leads to the path over the hill.
Both routes join by the top of the hill and lead to a fence presumably intended to keep the goats under control. A flag "Nudist Red beach FKK" is on the fence! There is a gate opening on the path which leads down to the beach.
Be sure to carry refreshments for the walk, though.
The Captain revisited in September 2000 and increases his rating to 90% - it would be more if access was not so difficult.
A contributor from September 2004 says “there is no easy way to the Red Beach (long may it be so!)”. Another comments on the great views and calm atmosphere.
A correspondent found the path too difficult and turned back. You have to climb steep uphill over rocks. You should only do this wearing proper shoes and not slippers.
However, another correspondent who visited in 1996 described the Red Beach as a clothing optional beach where he and his girlfriend didn't feel comfortable. There is an umbrella rental business. My correspondent thought there were too many umbrellas, one near another; so that if you want a quiet place, the Red Beach might not be the best place. Besides there are too many boats that carry people from and to Matala [that is an unfortunate development I agree], so the water is not so good. (his rating: 70%). His opinion (which I share): the people are destroying most of the places.
For some years a Belgian gentleman lived on this beach - an artist, doing carvings from local stone. He kept one end of the beach for the nudists so that it did not get taken over completely by textiles. When he saw people in the naturist area with clothes on he apparently asked them to leave or to strip. He was featured on The World's Best Nude Beaches. However, reports from 2004 say he is no longer there.
What you find at Red Beach depends on the time of year. In high summer there are often lots of textiles but this can change from day to day. It can often depend on who gets to the beach first. A lot of people will strip once they see others nude so the best advice is, if you consider yourself a true nudist, strip off and set the standard. The Red Beach is well known as a nudist beach and textiles can't be surprised (and one does wonder why they bother to make the climb when there are so many textile beaches in the area). There are plenty of good beaches for textiles, they do not need to take over ours. Don't huddle into a corner. Do your bit for nudism and strip!
In May 2004 it was reported to be 80% naturist, in September 65%; another contributor comments that it seems to become more nudist later in the day.
Some contributors say they think I have made the climb to the beach as being worse than it is. Others report that they found it pretty tiring in the heat of summer. And some German friends tell me that they think it is well worth it! So try it and make your own mind up!
Barefooters who visited in July 2006 thought the beach was well worth the visit and there was a good mix of textile and non-textile sun bathers. Parasols were available along with some sun beds at the northern end of the beach. The elderly Greek gentleman collecting the money was very civil and gave those departing from the beach a very cheery wave! Good sand and good access to swim and snorkel. This beach does feel miles from anywhere but in reality it is only 'round the corner' from Matala (Textile paradise!).
In July 2007 Red Beach was about 50% nude and it seemed to become more nudist later in the day. Nude/not nude people were mixed - there was no definitely nude part of the beach. Refreshments can be found in a small building in the centre of the beach. There is an umbrella/sun beds rental business but enough room left free. The water was excellent.
A gentleman was making carvings from local stones. He was with a lady and did not live at the beach but took the way from Matala. About 25 figurines were placed at large stone on the beach. Some of the figurines are left at the beach bar, others have disappeared.
In 2008 and 2009 there were hardly any nudists during the main tourist season, and it did not feel like a nude beach any more when nudists had to stay at the fringes. In 2010 the situation was a little better, with many naturists at each end of the beach. A few brave took nude walks between the southern and northern ends, passing the largely textile central part. Signs pointing the way to the beach now clearly state "Nude beach", yet a quick count revealed that a large majority kept their bathing suits firmly on. Much sand accumulated during the winter 2009/2010, which means the beach was wider in 2010 than in 2008 and 2009, with more room for nudists at the right and at the left. A beach bar is working in the centre of the beach.
Early August 2011, it was very populated with only about 15% of the people nude. But nude and non-nude were completely mixed without any problem. So you can easily unclad, swim and walk from end to end, with nobody seeming to care. The path to the beach is absolutely worth to do, it is the best part, and it is nice to have a place to rest and refresh before going back. The beach itself loses lot of its charm due to the umbrellas that cover a large part of it and the clothed and crowded attendance under it that gives it the appearance of a common commercial beach. But it is still a unique experience to go there and back.
Kommos / Komos / Como / Comos
My correspondents are ecstatic about a beach called Komos about 5 km to the north of Matala on the road to Pitsidia. On the strength of these recommendations the Captain himself paid a short visit there in late September 1998. I can only agree with those who enthused about this beach. It is a very lengthy stretch of golden sand. Both ends are developed to some extent (a taverna at the Kommos beach southern end, a short walk from the archaeological site, and a visiting cantina - a refreshment van to the English - stops next to the site) and a small block of flats plus tavernas at the northern end, so naturism is mostly practised in the centre. But do not imagine this means the naked ones are crammed into a small space surrounded by the less enlightened folk. The naturist section of this beach must be a good half kilometre long. I walked naked from our position towards the southern end to the rocks that appeared to mark the northern extent of the naturist section, and back. It took nearly half an hour. There is plenty of space for everyone, plus landscape that looked very promising for nude walks behind it. There is some shade under trees at the back of the beach. For part of the length of the beach the sea bed is rock shelf, but towards the southern end of the naturist section it is sandy.
One contributor says Kommos is the best nudist beach in Crete after Lendas, in terms of freedom. He never had the impression of being tolerated by textiles: it was the opposite…!
A common reservation is that the sea is sometimes not calm because of the wind. The beach is certainly prone to the Meltemi, which sometimes blows straight along the beach from north to south. This can cause flying sand. And when the sea isn't calm it can be quite difficult to get into the water on the slippery rocks. But others have said that this is the best nudist beach they found on Crete. If flying sand is a problem, since the wind comes off the sea simply move nearer the sea. Local information is that if it is windy at Kommos it will not be at Kalimaki, and vice-versa. Kalamaki, however, is definitely NOT nudist (2003).
The Captain thought it was wonderful and would give it a rating of 96%.
It is accessible from both the northern and the southern end and in the whole central part nudism seems to be accepted and with absolute tolerance with about 80% naturist in the centre. The best way to reach the nudist centre of the beach is now by turning to the right (going towards Matala) from the track from Pitsidia, thus: From the main road in Pitsidia turn right at the supermarket with the sign "Komos 30m'" and then immediately to the left on an asphalted track marked "Komos Beach" (see on Google). Follow this track to the crossroads.
At this point you can either follow the tarmac road to a large car park near the archaeological site. From here it is a short walk north along the beach to the naturist section. The (textile) beach is near the car park and the archaeological site, whereas the central, clothing optional part is here. Interesting to know that there is a shower near the car park.
Alternatively turn right on a dirtroad. After 500 m you come to a place where you can park in shade under trees very close to the centre of the beach; however parking space here may be limited.
An alternative access, when going from Matala to Pitsidia: take the road to the left, opposite the white-washed wall of the Speed Cafe, which starts on the corner with a youth camping at N35 00' 33.2" E24 46' 10.0". There is now a sign to Kommos beach and the road is metalled. At the first crossroad, turn right downhill, which brings you to the crossroads as mentioned above.
Another very easy access is the following one. Go to Kalamaki. 25 meters after the entrance sign "Kalamaki" you can see on the right a car hire name Loggetta. Turn left and follow the asphalted road to the northern end of beach. You can park at the side of a tavern with accommodation which is on the beach. Go on the and towards the rocks that are 20 meters away. The naturist area starts there. 100 meters more and you arrive on the large sand naturist beach, on the part having trees for shade.
A correspondent visited in July 2003, and enjoyed the long sandy beach very much. The sea was very calm, and provided excellent snorkelling: they saw a lot of fish.
The Captain has received many reports over the years, and the most recent suggest that little has changed. The beach is not crowded despite the ease of access.
Around Kommos free camping is tolerated and one of the few official camping sites in Crete is nearby, near Pitsidia on the road to Matala (it's just 10 minute walk from Kommos).
It is reported that a German (nudist) calling himself “The Cakeman” is now selling delicious homemade cakes and coffee on the beach.
Like on most nude beaches, the nude proportion has declined on Kommos. In 2008 and 2009 there were frequently as much as 90 % textiles on the weekends. In May-June 2010 the situation was better, with around 50-60 % nudists and lots of people taking nude walks.
On three visits in late September 2010, the naturist stretch was near 100% nude and seemed busier than the sections of 'clothed' beaches to the north and south. The reporter and his wife enjoyed a long nude beach walk south to the rocks near Kalamaki, slipped some clothes on and had lunch at a taverna. Then walked back.
During the first week of August 2011 an enthusiastic contributor came 5 times. He thinks this is one of the most beautiful naturist beaches in the world. The naturist parts goes from the end of the rocks at the south (after them lies the Kalamaki beach, absolutely not naturist) up to the end of the northern rocks at the start of the very crowded beach of the archeological side. You can stay and walk nude for more than a kilometer. On the weekend, there were about 50% of people nude, the clothed ones being concentrated near the parking in the center of the beach. During the week, the nudity rate was about 90%. Many campers stay near the parking; there are naturists and non naturists, some progressively changing side (this is free camping ant it must be beautiful : you are under the trees on the beach and at 1 km by road from a village for necessities). The beach offers a real mix of families, couples, young and aged people in an atmosphere of harmony with nature (especially during weekdays) that provides a special spirit to this place.
One other point about Kommos Beach. It has been noted by the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece as a nesting site. This requires of those who visit the beach a considerable degree of responsibility. In particular, any nests should not be disturbed, any turtles should not be "assisted" to the sea (it is essential to their development that they find their own way) and the beach should not be visited at night. And as with all beaches, litter should not be left. True naturists leave only footprints in the sand. The Captain exhorts all those who visit Kommos to follow these guidelines.
