Northern Crete

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Clockwise: West to East - dark red spots on the above map

Northern Crete is where you'll find the biggest package-holiday resorts. You will also find the best and fastest road on the island which extends practically from one end to the other, right alongside the coast in places. The Captain was therefore interested to receive the following reports about Northern Crete. Despite evidence of some availability of beaches suitable for naturism the Captain still recommends that if you attach high priority to finding naturist beaches during your visit to Crete you head south, east or west.


Falassarna

See on Google Maps

This is on the west coast near Platanos, usually approached from Kastelli, as you come into for sign to Falasarni Beach Hotel. Follow long windy road which descends to long sandy beach. Go to end of road and continue 300 mtrs on dirt track to parking. The area at the northern end of the beach was used by a few couples when we went in June, mainly Germans and no single men, but discretion was needed on Sundays due to Greek families. A report from June 2001 says you could strip in the dunes, or lay by the sea depending on your approach. Beach is sand with stones into sea at northern end, but 100 mtrs to south, sandy entry. Shallow for a long way, crystal clear water. There are several Tavernas, costume needed, chairs are there but you would need to carry them to your area. My contributors were comfortable with the area but it could get windy; there is no public transport.

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There are different sandy beaches, most of them “belonging” to a restaurant and equipped with umbrellas and beds. The main beach is called the Big Beach or “Ipanema Beach” and is roughly divided into 3 parts. The most southern part is very deserted, with sand hills behind the beach and a dirt road behind the hills. As the hills are not that high everywhere, you can be seen from the road by the passing farmers. This part of the beach is sand, but it changes to pebbles in the water.

The middle part has a beach bar and umbrellas and beds. This part is sand, also in the water. It was relatively crowded and textile. The northern part is also sand out and in the water. It is separated from the middle part by some rocks and sand hills. On the beach are also some rocks which provide shadow. This part (about 150 m) was mostly occupied by nude people, although some people wore swimsuits. There exists a friendly co-existence. The majority of the people in that part were German and in the weekends some Greek people and families came and also stripped. My contributor, who visited in September 2001, can only recommend it! The only negative point is that most of the time there was a strong wind.

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Earlier reports, such as one from June 1999, suggested the textile invasion is about to take over. However the Captain has received sufficient more recent reports to inspire confidence that there are still parts of the beach where one can happily strip, however this is clearly one of those beaches where the situation can change from day to day.

Some say the water and the sand are superb here, one contributor described it as the best he'd ever found all over Greece.

A correspondent who visited in 1997 thought this beach wonderful, a few umbrellas and beds, but loads of empty beach, and said if you go just around the southern point, there's no wind either. After finding this beach, they kept on going back!

A correspondent reporting from May 1999 describes this as "our favourite beach". Forget about the big beach, the small one at the cliffs and dunes is perfect. Peaceful - very few visitors.

A report from September 2002 confirms that the northern part was nudist. But one from July 2004 found no nudists at all on this part of the beach.

There may still be some possibilities in the sand dunes at the southern end. Turn left at the "Panorama"-sign, and further down to the beach, park in front of the sand dune and walk right over it. There's a little "canyon" where you go down in the water. Don't expect to find many nudists. Some 200-300 metres further south, at the lagoon-like beach there were no other people, making it possible to walk in the nude (May 2001).

A report arrived in June 2000 describes it as a beach that is not over-run - a huge sweep of sand, turquoise blue waters and plenty of scope for nude sunbathing amongst the dunes at the southern end of the beach.

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Unfortunately, another report comes in suggesting that this report is exaggerated. A quarter of this beach is in full view of the dirt road at the back of the beach, another quarter is rocks rather than sand, and another is uncomfortably close to the fish taverna at the harbour (south end of the dirt road). There is really only one area of sand on the beach at which nudity is possible, and on the occasion of my contributor's visit (June 2000) both the cove at the headland and this part of the beach were occupied by textiles. It is a place for "get there first" enthusiasts.

A report from September 2002 says that between the two big umbrella-beaches there is a small beach used by nudists, but there are less people and you cannot go into the sea very easily there. But if you follow the paved road to the end and follow the path for another 500 metres you can go down a steep path where you can park. If you follow the path to the sea (50 metres) you can be naked as much as you like. There are some people from the big beach that will walk along the coast to a small harbour 100 metres away and to the "old Falassarna" archaeological site, but they don't seem to mind.

The most quiet place is at the northern end of the beach between the rocks, but there you cannot go into the sea very easily. If you can, go further south for another 50 metres and go into the sea without any problem. My contributors laid between the rocks and went swimming there. Sometimes textile Greek people arrived, but they seemed to know about the nudists there, they were very friendly and did not object to them at all.

At the very southern end of the beach it is also very quiet. You can be nude there without seeing anybody and walk long distances. Sometimes a cucumber farmer will pass on the road behind the beach, but that is no problem.

One contributor who visited in 2003 says that of all the beaches he and his wife visited on Crete the most beautiful was Falassarna. It was sandy, not too much wind, beautiful clear water. It is not too far, very easy from Chania or from Rethymnon (nice new road). There are many tavernas and restaurants and not expensive (10 Euros for 2 persons for Greek salad + cold soda). Also easy to find a parking for your car. My contributor says "Go to Falassarna, you won't regret it!"

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But another report, from early 2004, from one of my many Greek contributors, says it seems to [be] that it is getting more difficult year by year to practise naturism here, mostly because more people find out about this beautiful place. At the end of July 2003 my contributor went there, to the 3rd bay (the 1st is the big one, the first to find on your left as [you] reach Falassarna). He says, "At the weekends it is very hard to practise nudism, too many families especially Greeks with children, that do not like nudists. But during the other days it is possible. Last summer it was only about 30% naturists unfortunately. But I observed one thing: once the other people see more than one naturist, they begin to be curious and slowly, slowly they begin to throw off their swimsuits (one day in the morning it was only about 20% naturist, in the afternoon almost everyone was naked). That means that we have to insist and encourage the other people to feel the naturist experience in such a beautiful place."

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recent reports

June: Previous reports confirmed. Regrettably, on a fine sunny mid-week day, there was not one nudist on the most northern Falassarna beach. 50 to 60 textile bathers occupied the area close to the sun loungers.
late September: There were nudists on the sand between the rocks in the northern Falassarna beach. Had a pleasant stay.

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Balos Bay (Tigani)

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To the far north of Falassarna. In the past, a long hike. A new road leads almost all the way, leaving just a short walk down the stairs. A 4-wheel-drive car is recommended. The road is not easy: 8 kilometres of mountain road along a very stony road and later 8 kilometres back, but it is possible. At the end of the road you follow the path over the mountain (you cannot miss it, says my contributor) to the steps down to the bay. It takes approximately half an hour. Down you go to the right side of the beach, where the sand is less clean.

It is a beautiful place with a lot of rocks to "hide" behind. The water is no deeper than approximately 1.5 metres at the most - but this means a long walk before it is possible to swim. There is said to be room for everybody. Lovely sandy beach - peaceful until the sight-seeing boats arrive.

A report from September 2002 says that this beach was mainly textile and spoiled by a "lot of garbage" at the back of the beach.

You can go from the Falassarna harbour or Kissamos to Balos Bay by boat, taking in the island Nisos Gramvousa (and its castle) for some hours, before you come to the bay.

At the other end of the beach, next to the restaurant, there are also quiet places.

Pictures of the beach appear in nearly all Crete postcard photosets, and my reporter had read a lot of comments on how excellent the beach is so they decided to visit it. Road to the beach is not good, but is acceptable, we used small, not 4x4 car and there were no problems. Indeed, the beach is really scenic! After climbing down in 150 metres they found it as fully textile. But after a short walk around the beach we found a nude couple in far side and decided to stay not far away. We spent excellent one hour there. In one hour a ship with 200-300 people tied up near the place where they sat… Later another ship came. As a result, it turned into a crowded textile beach. It is sad to say, but the beach is not nude any more, at least in high season. Perhaps one can find a hidden place here to swim nude but definitely not in the main bay and it is not worth to take so long and difficult way to the beach. The place can be recommended for sightseeing but not as a nude beach.

A Barefooter who was there in summer 2007 confirms the above. Hundreds of tourists are arriving with the ships from Kasteli and all of them are textile. It is even rare that women are topless. It is pity, because the beach is really very, very beautiful (perhaps the most beautiful in Crete, says my reporter). It is worth to see it, but only textile sunbathing is possible.

We visited in early October 2015. There is a 2 Euro toll on the road to the beach. When we arrived at around 1400 hours, the car park was full and cars were parked along the relatively narrow access road for well over half a kilometre. We walked to the car park then about half a km from the car park along a rough track to where there is a final, fairly steep descent to the beach. From here we could see that the beach was very crowded and wholly textile; large numbers would appear to have come on a boat from Chania. A lovely location but it's a long and steep walk to the beach and cannot be recommended.


Tersanas / Calathas Bay

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By asking around, some Swedish friends found a small, but very friendly beach just a little bit away from Tersana Beach. Tersana is situated 15 km NorthEast from Hania, on the West side of the Akrotiri peninsula, and is easy to find with a scooter. The beach was visited by mainly Greek people, but a few French and Norwegian.

Go towards Stavros. You will pass the University, and pass the very big Kalathas Bay. After Kalathas Bay you come to Horalakia, and just in the middle of this small Village, there is a gas station (Shell). Just before, there is a small sign left, towards Tersanas. When passing Tersanas Beach, and the beach taverna, you take the first road to the right, up among the houses. Here you pass a very small chapel.

From the Taverns, it's about 1 km to go. You will come out from the housing area, and pass a pond below on your right hand side. Just up on the hill, after "Georgiou's Apartments" there is a sharp right turn on the road (not a hairpin). Park here! Then you need to walk down to the small beach. You need good footwear (Crocs are OK) since this is volcano-rocks, and very sharp.

The beach is a short sandy one, and also quite a few hiding places if you want privacy.

May 2013: Maybe some sand has been lost, but at full tide there is room for only one or two people on the sand.
June 2015: There were some 25 people there, but spreading towels between the rocks, which are conveniently faulted North-South, nearly all disappeared from view! About two-thirds were male. Little grey "cleaner" fish/minnows!
Handy spot if time in hand before your flight home from Chania.


Kera

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On the north coast 15km east of Chania, Kera lies between the small resorts of Kalives and Almirida. Originally just a chapel ("Kera" is Greek for "Our Lady"), there is now a loose collection of villas and holiday apartments - but it is still very quiet. Kera has a beach - stony at the west end, sandy at the east - which is never crowded, but which is too overlooked and frequented for naturist use. However, between Kera and Kalives is a small cove which is not visible either from the coast road or from other beaches, and which gets a moderate use by local naturists. To reach the beach, drive out of Kalives towards Almirida. This means initially following signs for Vamos then turn left onto a distinct road, signposted Almirídha (but not clearly), where the road bends to the left and there are numerous signs for accommodation.

The road swings back towards the coast as it climbs, and it is possible to park just after the brow of the hill (by an imposing water manifold on the seaward side) and follow a zig-zag track down for a bit, then to scramble down the cliff, but this is not recommended. Alternatively follow the main road down the hill as it swings inland again. Then, just after it starts to climb, look out for a tarmac track on the left (clearly signed for Kera studio/apartments). Go down to the culvert over the streambed, then climb the other side of the valley as far as you can go, parking where the tarmac runs out, very little space here but unlikely to be many cars. Continue on foot upwards about 150m (the road has been badly washed out) then look out for a path on your right. This is the above-mentioned zig-zag track, going through rusty gate remains. Follow this down - there are some little fields - to the relatively gentle cliff.

The beach is a very narrow strip of stones. There is a low north-facing cliff, with some trees at its top, so there's shade if you want it. The stones continue only a few feet into the sea, after which you will be walking on sand. The view is superb, with small off-shore islands (OK, giant rocks), Akrotiri a couple of miles away across the bay, lovely coastline off to your right and the rocky headland to your left which hides Kalives. GPS waypoints in WGS-84: Access point N35 26' 57" E24 11' 00" Naturist beach N35 27' 02" E24 10' 57".

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A recent report suggests that if you arrive early you will have the beach to yourself for much of the morning. My contributor's report suggests that the beach is big enough that there can be sufficient distance between you and any textiles that it would be hard for them to take offence. And there is a further "mini beach" which is accessible from the western end. You can only get to it by either some very cautious rock scrambling, or a waist-high wade through the water from the far western end. This is an ideal spot for stripping off, but it is only big enough for one couple/family, and is shingle rather than sand. I suspect that you could stay there all day and not see a soul apart from the occasional snorkeller going along the coast.

A report from September 2002 confirms the suitability of this beach, although there were only 3 nude people there at the time of my contributor's visit.

A report from July 2004 says that on arrival, around 4.00, there were about 10 to 12 persons, all to the left of the access point, and all clothed. No sign of, or hope of, a nudist visit. We settled down on our own to the right to the access point. Almost immediately another couple (who looked Greek) appeared, went into the "mini beach" and stripped off, so we did as well. Most of the others soon left (not because of us, as we were partly out of sight), and one of the remaining men did then go nude.

Definitely scenic and peaceful, but lack of sand combined with rocks and undergrowth in the water were distinct negative points, not really much sand underwater. The "mini beach" is directly below the path, so you would be in full view of anyone arriving or leaving.


Georgioupolis

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There are always some naturists about halfway between the Paradise and Poseidon bars and the shallow river which is about 1 Km to their east, and there is no hassle with the textiles strolling up and down the beach and occasionally settling in the middle of the naturists. (The Poseidon's sign is almost invisible from the road and the Paradise's is almost invisible from the beach.)

Along this stretch the new coastal highway (Ethnikos dromos) is parallel to the shore and very close to it, with service tracks on either side. The main square of Georgioupolis lies halfway between the highway and the beach. Either walking along the beach or by car/bus along the highway, the Paradise and Posidon bars are just over 2km east of the main square. The markers on the highway are partly hidden by foliage, but if you see km 39, that's very close to the two bars. Another highway landmark is the Pilot Hotel; the two bars are less than 500m east of it.

If you come from Chania follow the main road in the direction of Rethymno. You are passing the little town of Georgoupolis on your left. After that you see a sign: "Pilot Beach resort 300 m" About 400-500 m after this sign there will be a sign "P 500 m " (the sign for parking). You drive on this parking place and then cross the road. There is a possibility to drive from that side of the Parking place on the parallel road at the back side of the dunes/beach. Then go right for 150 m and you will see "Pavlos kanteen". You can park you car there and walk a short distance to the spot.

Access 35-21'17.7"N 24-16'48.3" E. This is the exit from the "National Road" layby onto the track that runs along the back of the beach. Motorists should drive a short distance along this track in an easterly direction and park at the back of "Pavlos" beach bar (described as the new beach bar in the guide). Then they should continue a short distance along the beach, again in an easterly direction to reach the naturist area mid-way between Pavlos and the next set of sunbeds further to the east. Beach 35-21'20.6" N 24-17'02.1" E

One reporter used the beach further east. If you come from Rethymnon, you pass the Pelekanos bar. A few hundred metres further there is a parking lot. From that parking you can drive on the parallel road along the beach, back in the direction to Pelekan. 50m on this dirt road you can park. From here up to the small river near Pelekan bar, we stayed almost every day with only a few other people on the beach, most of them naked. Some bypassers, but nobody seemed to care. Coordinates on Google maps: 35°21'06"N, 24°19'40"E. Their rating: >90%.

Alternative directions: take the exit from the Ethniki Odos marked Παραλία/Beach just west of the Anemos Grand Resort (just before it if coming from Georgioupoli or Chania) and then turn right on the service road, so you're now heading east. Just after you pass the Anemos again, you'll find a track leading down to the beach. The nude section (such as it is - see 2016 report below) is between the two beach bars.

The 2000 & 2001 reports (below) raise the question, is it worth it? Well, the Captain would welcome more reports. My correspondents suggest that nudity is acceptable in this area around 2/3 the way from Posidon bar's sun loungers to the next set along to the east, but it sounds rather furtive. It seems it isn't particularly common on June Sundays, with textile "residents" outnumbering naturists at least 4:1 over the 150m stretch, and with textile walkers passing every few minutes. And female naturists are less likely to be seen than male ones.

reports

The beach is evidently more developed, and there are large numbers of textiles walking along the water's edge between the two beach bars - a constant stream. This is not, perhaps, for the faint hearted. There was a single, young guy nude in the dunes. We set ourselves up just by the dunes and tentatively stripped off. Nobody seemed bothered. A straight couple eventually came and stripped off in the dunes. It didn't seem like a good idea to walk down to the water to swim naked, so we put our trunks on for that. But the straight couple did just walk down to the sea and nobody batted an eyelid, so I shucked off my trunks and enjoyed the water, and then walked back to our towels naked, and nobody minded. The water is beautifully clear and there are lots of little fish. So, like I say, not for the faint of heart, but if you're comfortable being naked around lots of clothed people (and I guess I've just discovered that I am!) then it's definitely worth it.

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Lake Kournas

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A correspondent also reported that he swam in Lake Kournas, the freshwater lake about three miles inland from Georgiopolis, and noticed a nude family in a corner of the lake hidden from general view by reeds. However, this was one of few secluded spots accessible by footpath from the access road, and was just about big enough for four people. He swam in the middle of the lake from a pedalo - about 200 yards from shore - but be warned, getting back into the boat is very difficult if you're not in shallow water, and you may need to get back close to the shore to clamber aboard.

Barefoot reporters who came by here in 2005 noted that although the road-side of this lake is somewhat touristy (you can rent pedal boats), we also saw on the far other side 1 nude couple and 1 male. We did not have time to figure out how to get there. A visitor in 2015 counted 51 small boats, canoes and pedaloes scattered all over the lake's surface, so no chance except for exhibitionists!


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Panormos

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"We searched for suitable beaches on the north coast west of Iraklion. The small village of Panormos lies just off the main road from Iraklion to Rethymnon (about 23 km east of Rethymnon). Park in the village and walk down to the tiny beach (with a taverna) and climb up the other side. Turn right towards the second small sandy beach (clothes only) and at the point where you might descend to this beach, there is an FKK sign on a fence post pointing optimistically westwards along the low cliffs. Our hopes were built up but we found no other nudists and certainly no sandy beach. We could only conclude that people sunbathe in the very small rocky coves that appear occasionally along a 200-300 metre stretch. We had a pleasant if somewhat hard afternoon lying on the rocks in a cove from where we also swam out from the rocks."

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A report from August 2000 is more depressing. Apparently there are new building activities, the FKK sign has gone, and there were only two naturists present and the beach was rather disappointing (my contributor gave it a meagre 5%).

From the village of Panormo, follow a track to east parallel to the sea up in the hills. There will be a closed gate, however it is not locked, and there is no 'no trespassing' sign or like (there are some signs, but they are completely rusty, and no text can be read on it). After the gate, you can climb down to the sea to one of [the] rocky coves. It is definitely not a beach, and it is only enough for 2-4 people. It is isolated from looks either from the village or from the road. A good place for snorkelling. The water is very clean, and the place is generally very pleasant. There was no (active) building activity in the area.
One should, however, be very cautious when climbing down and entering the water.


Sises

See on Google Maps

There is also an isolated stone/shingle beach near the villages of Sises (32 km west of Iraklion). There is a stony track leading off the main road some 3.5 km west of the Sises turning (the second road off following that turning). This leads past a tiny church to the rock, boulder and shingle beach (50 metres wide).

The Captain has not yet personally visited this beach. The original report said the setting was pretty and the 2 metres of stone at the water’s edge then turns to sand. However, the back of the beach has a lot of flotsam – maybe some keen nudists could undertake a clean-up.

A more recent report (Summer 2002) was less complimentary, to say the least. The beach is said to be dirty and ugly, and simply not worth visiting. A group of 4 naturists said they would not have laid down on the beach had they not been tired and dirty on a long drive to and from western Crete to Knossos, and having done so they all felt it had been quite a disgusting feeling. Not exactly a recommendation, then … you have been warned.

There is one ramshackle house at the back of the beach. The other point is to take great care not to appear nude within sight of the church (some 200-300 metres back from the beach) since this could cause serious offence.


Agia Pelagia

This seems to be it here

There is a report (2014) of a small beach under the Peninsula Hotel, where you can sun naked, next to Psaromoura beach. Sounds somewhat furtive - further information would be welcome…


Hersonissos

See on Google maps

A report reaches me of a tiny enclave near Hersonissos, tucked in at the east side of the curve of the bay from the Knossos Royal Village Hotel. From the northern end of Hersonissos town you take the road which goes past the medical centre, turn left at the next crossroads, pass in front of the Creta Maris Hotel, continue on to the Creta Maris diving centre and then turn and head north along the road which skirts the beach for about one kilometre. Park just beyond the Restaurant Saradari (the former Oasis Cafe-Bar) and then follow the sign "to the beach". You can look down on the beach from this point (which is useful to check where you are) and indeed many do but no-one seems to bother. The cliff closest to the beach is very steep and potentially dangerous. It is easier to go to the beach at the Oasis Cafe-bar and walk around the bend.

There is sand as well as rock and is fine for swimming and snorkelling. It is possible to go beyond this point but the beach does become much smaller as you do so. When my contributor visited (several times in early August 2000) most people were nude but the mixed couples and families tended to be Germans and Dutch and of course we English. The men were, as far as we could tell, Greek.

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The beach itself is in 2 sections, most of which are overlooked by the road some 20 metres above. This was not a problem as people invariably looked over and moved on. The far section is much smaller and holds 8 -10 persons comfortably. It is divided only by a large boulder from the main section which can comfortably hold 30 people. Although it seems quite private, shielded in the curve of the bluff, the bathers are quite visible to anyone looking down from the road above. The beach can also be clearly seen from the coast on the east side of the KRV, but the distance is such one cannot distinguish the textiles from the naturists without binoculars. Despite its shortcomings, the spot is quite pleasant, and since the water is usually calm in the bay, quite good for swimming.

Good news and bad news about this beach. A report from June 2001 says the tiny enclave near Hersonissos is a thriving nudist beach - which sounds like good news indeed! Upon my contributor's arrival at 9:00 AM there were a male-male couple and a single male already at the beach. Over the next three hours the beach was populated with four male-female couples, another male-male couple, four more single males, a family of four (with swimsuits), another nude family of four, and another nude family of 6. It was a refreshing morning at the beach and my contributor was glad to see so many nude people relaxing in the sun. Some 28 of the 32 people at the beach were nude.

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In an area notably short of nudist beaches Hersonissos gets a higher rating than it might elsewhere (one correspondent gave it 60%, a later one 88%).

Now the bad news. A report from September [?year] suggests the beach becoming overcrowded and in the afternoon turning into gawper season. The rear of the beach has items of rubbish discarded there and the beach itself which is of grey shingle, is dirty and covered by fag butts. My contributor took 5 minutes removing chewing gum from the sole of his foot at one stage. His comment: this beach needs a good clean-up and needs to be vetted for pervs.

A report from June 2004 confirms that this beach does tend to have a high male: female ratio, which some women might find slightly intimidating. Most of the single males appear to be Greek, and quite a few of these are older, and seem focused on genuine naturism and catching octopuses! Moreover, they were very friendly and helpful when my contributors' 7 year old started crying after getting suntan lotion in his eyes. Generally speaking, as you progress up to the more remote bays, I would guess that many of the males are of a gay persuasion, and sometimes this is quite open - though we witnessed no lewd behaviour.

Another report from 2004 says that the directions on this web site were very good but (and a big but) once my contributors had found it there didn't seem to be any way down apart from an almost vertical climb down the cliff face which, while carrying bags, isn't the easiest thing to do.

There were already 4 couples and a 4 or 5 single local males , however one of the locals had seen our attempts to skydive off the cliff and showed us another way onto the beach via the adjoining beach; it's quite narrow in one spot but is so much easier than "skydiving" off the cliff. The Captain, and no doubt my readers, would welcome further information.

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Having found a nice spot on the shingle my contributors stretched out for the day. Nobody bothered them and there was a good mix of Germans, Russians, locals and two Brits, the water was extremely warm and clear, ideal for swimming and snorkelling , ice creams and drinks were available on the next beach even if it did mean slipping the trunks on, just a small amount of litter under the cliff but on the whole a clean and tidy beach well worth a visit.

Some contributors who visited in August 2003 suggest I have been insufficiently enthusiastic about this beach. Well, I'm not sure. It gets pretty mixed reports.

Here's the enthusiastic version. The beach was great, it is much bigger than your report suggested. It now has signs saying "NUDE ONLY" and "FKK ONLY".

My contributors visited the beach 5 times in two weeks and had a ball, they met French, German and Italian couples as well as a Greek man called Dimitri who seemed to be running the whole show: he stopped textiles on the beach and asked them to strip or leave as the beach was nude only, everyone supported him and I have to say that most people just agreed and went nude.

Barefooters who visited in October 2005 met these Greek men. Dimitri is the talkative one and the older man really worships the sun. They shared food and had a raki or two with these friendly Greek naturists.

The beach is a bit tricky to find but all the locals know it and you can be pointed in the right direction easily.

There were several families on the beach as well and many groups and couples, it was very much a party mood. My contributors are considering going back next year just for this beach as they both feel that it really made their holiday.

Now here's the less enthusiastic version, based on a report from May 2004. "I was at this beach last weekend and it was terrible. People were staring down at the beach all the time. At one point about five 15-16-year-old boys got right up to the edge of the cliff and started throwing pebbles on one of the ladies. The ratio of single Greeks to couples is about 50-50." That contributor gave it a rating of just 10%.

recent reports

May: Access was easy from the beach to the south, just having to cross some rocks to get to it. There is no shade from the searing sun until past 1pm when the cliffs give the beach steadily creeping shade. The beach is small stone, not sandy, still comfortable to walk on until it gets to hot. The water is crystal clear and warm to swim in. The rocks can be awkward to walk on so flip-flops would help.

The beach is visited, daily it would seem, by a few local men. One in particular will see what he likes appear on the beach and home in on them, playing with himself and walking around showing his manhood off. We lay naked, feet towards the sea, and he made a point of positioning himself feet away from the female's legs, facing her looking up at her crotch, so much so that she kept her knees pressed closed and ended up with pale inner thighs. That was the only thing that spoilt the days we spent there.

There is a restaurant at the top of the cliffs with toilets and friendly staff. Drinks are cheap and very nice.

August: We visited a few times during our 2 weeks in Crete, mainly because this was the only beach within a reasonable drive time from our hotel. We didn't see any FKK sign, nor Dimitri letting people know its a nude beach. There were plenty of older, locals using the beach, all naked and there's a lovely fisherman who seems to know everyone and offers his fruit to anyone that would like some.

It's OK here, but there are a few points to note:

  • The bay area was full of moored boats for most of the day, and some boats stayed all day. Local "pirate ship" the Black Rose pulls into the bay with music blaring and once it has dropped its anchor plays Tom Jones' "You Can Leave Your Hat On" loudly - I can only presume this is to take the piss.
  • You get LOTS of gawpers from the above cliff, so not ideal for first time nudists. Many of them took pictures too which was uncomfortable. Some were genuinely interested though and asked how to get down, then promptly did so and stripped.
  • There are cigarette butts everywhere, otherwise the beach is pretty clean and tidy
  • The guy mentioned in the Captain's report who likes to parade himself is still there, assuming the guy we saw is the same one. Bald head, wrap around sun glasses, blue cap, tattoo on the upper left arm, and parades the beach "semi aroused" while smoking a cigarette all day. Didn't get any trouble from him though

Otherwise, it is a lovely beach. There were plenty of nudists there when we visited; lots of single guys, a few male-male couple and some families who were all nude. The male-female couples tended to be nude male-topless female but not always, and as the afternoon drew on, more single males visited the beach. During August 2017 there was a pretty strong wind blowing all the days we were on Crete from a NW or NNW direction which produces some big waves - this beach being west facing and in a small cove was pretty sheltered from those winds so the water was calm and crystal clear. One thing to mention about the water, it has plenty of fish so you do get snorkelers from neighbouring beaches coming along to look at the fish. If you are swimming nude, watch out for these fish!! They are pretty brave and we found they like to "nibble"! A particular problem if you are male, if you catch my drift.

As the beach is sandwiched between two textile beaches which are very thin (as in the distance from the cliff face to the water's edge) you do also get plenty of textiles coming along as this is one of the few beaches on this stretch which allows you to sunbathe without your belongings getting wet each time a wave comes in - some of these do try a bit of nudism but many don't. Local young Greeks come along later in the afternoon in small groups but also never strip.

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Plaka

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North of Elounda, just after Plaka, before the road turns to left up the mountain, there is a dirt track to the right, following the coastline. After about 600 metres you see a path leading down to the sea. This path is blocked by a little wall, so that's where my reporters had to leave their car. They walked down the path and at the end there was a flat surface of limestone with easy access to the sea. Ideal for nude sunbathing and snorkelling. There was only 1 other nude couple there. Great view over Spinalonga (the leper-island).

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Elounda

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My contributor found that if you follow the road around the water's edge and take the causeway across the bridge you come to a narrow rocky road following the road nearly to the end and leaving car if you walk on to the end you come to a small beach with fine sand and gentle slope into sea. The Captain understands this is called Kolokitha Bay. It seemed to be clothes-optional quite often but best before 1100 and after 1500 because between these hours the beach is used by pleasure boats from Ag. Nikolaos. You can also swim nude from the rocks along the road to the beach .

A more recent (October 2003) report describes visiting there twice in a one-week holiday and both times the beach was full of textiles. As it is quite small (maybe 30-50 metres wide) nude sunbathing was out of the question. The reason for this might be that the beach is mentioned in all tourist guides and there was a constant traffic to and from the beach. So swimming nude along the road was a bit questionable too. More recent reports suggest that between 2004 and 2005 the number of tourist boats increased markedly, making nude sunbathing out of the question.

One report says that if you turn left when you reach the beach and follow the shoreline for about 200 metres, there is a very small cove (which can not be seen from the bigger beach), maybe just 4-5 metres of sand, which can be used. It can be found easily by looking for a fenced area containing some old ruins. The beach is right next to it. It is so small that it is a matter of who will be the first but in both our visits nude people were there. Also when walking further, some nude people were sunbathing on rocks.

If you turn right at Kolokytha beach, there is a rough path over and through the rocks. Follow the coast for about 400 metres and you will get to another beach (actually 2 small beaches). These are marked on Google as beach Vayu. This is larger and nicer than Kolokytha beach and cannot be visited by the large excursion boats due to the shallow water. When visited in 2016, there we encountered a few naturist couples and one single male. Only once did some textiles come - these were dropped off by motor boat for a barbecue and used the other beach. Well worth the walk.


Mochlos (Μοχλος)

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Little village off the main road a few km east of Agios Nikolaos on the way to Sitia. Very picturesque situation and, most unusually, all the trees along the esplanade wear little labels giving their proper botanical names. The main local industry appears to be quarrying massive lumps of limestone.

The village is known mainly for its fine tavernas and the village beach is very small. But a little east of it is a beautiful pebble beach where on two occasions we were alone or almost alone. You find it by following the sign Sitia when leaving Mochlos village, keeping on the small coastal road. From the village you can see it. There is a hotel with a private beach but just before you get there, there is a dustroad to the beach; you can almost park your car on it. Beach is pebbles, you need foot protection to go in the water, but very fine beach, 300m wide.


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