Gavdos is a small island opposite Chora Sfakion. There have been reports of high percentages of nudity on the beaches there for some time, but a contributor has sent some very interesting details of the situation on Gavdos during the summer of 2005, in particular as regards the best known naturist beach, Ag. Ioannis, and a nearby less frequented one, Lavrakas. Ferries to Gavdos, used to depart from Paleochora and Chora Sfakion, but as of July 1st 2010, due to new EU safety regulations a new larger ferry is only allowed to do the trip and this only departs from Paleochora. To see the schedule click here (the table at the bottom of the page). It is also recommended to call the port authorities of Paleochora (28230 41214) before deciding to do the trip to confirm that there will be a ferry service. Sometimes due to strong wind the trip may be cancelled.
AG. IOANNIS
This is on the north side of Gavdos, facing Crete. Board the community bus from the tiny port to Ag. Ioannis (roughly once every hour). The bus passes from Sarakiniko beach (now lost to "civilization") and continues on a gravel road until it reaches a taverna/mini-market. This is the campers’ sole source of water, food and supplies. Ag Ioannis beach is a further 15 min walk towards the west (keeping the sea to the right).
My contributor rates this as definitely one of the top 3 beaches he has ever visited (including the Caribbean and Red Sea). He is not alone; other reporters have listed it as their favourites. It’s about 500 meters long, and quite wide. The water is crystal clear with blue-green hues and it's all sandy at the bottom. If you start walking towards the back of the beach, the first 20 meters are flat sand, then there are sand dunes with cedar trees, then pine trees and rocky cliffs towards the back of the beach. In some ways it reminds him of Elafonissos. There are dozens of old cedars one can use as shade. People on the beach are usually friendly (if you make the first step), but he suggests you keep your money on you - a waist pouch is very useful.
Ag. Ioannis gets crowded during the last week of June until the 15th of August. People even set up tents in the blazing sun in the middle of the beach. Best time would be before or after that.
Nudism can be as low as 70% during peak period, but is close to 100% at all other times.
LAVRAKAS
This is to the west of Ag. Ioannis. There are two ways to get there from Ag. Ioannis:
1) Follow the coast. My correspondent’s preferred route. It takes about 30 minutes. You have to go waist deep into water at some point, but it's ok if you travel light. You can only take this route when the weather is good.
2) Climb up the rocks at the back of Ag. Ioannis and follow the paths. People on the beach should be able to provide instructions. Ask someone who goes there often (you can tell by their living quarters). It takes about 30-40 minutes if you don't get lost. My correspondent did, but it was very easy to find his way. It's a small island after all, and Crete is always visible so you know which way is North!
In terms of natural beauty this beach is not as good as Ag. Ioannis, but there are other things to make up for that. It's a flat beach with cedars, but the number of good spots to set up a tent is limited to maybe a dozen. Access to the sea is also somewhat limited, as you have to find a passage between the big rocks. It's great for snorkelling though! The best thing on Lavrakas is the well. A couple who stayed there for some time dug a well about 2 meters deep, which lets you access fresh, chilled, drinkable water! You still have to go 45 minutes to get food from the taverna/minimarket (and another 45 to come back), but if you plan right and you cook your food you can last for a week easily.
My correspondent left Ag. Ioannis when the crowds hit that beach (early August) and went to Lavrakas. Needless to say, it's not affected by the waves of tourists, since access is not easy. However, he met people from Ag. Ioannis who made the trip daily to get fresh water, but that's hardly a problem.
Nudism: everyone swims naked; maybe a few go around the beach with a piece of cloth round their waist.
PYRGOS
If you follow the coast line from Lavrakas further to the West, you will find another small, totally deserted sandy beach. It is a 30 min hike from Ag. Ioannis which can also be done in the nude.
TRIPITI
Tripiti cape is the most southerly point in Gavdos and is claimed to be the most southerly point of Europe as well. The beach has large pebbles and is definitely not the best one in Gavdos, but it is quiet, as not many people go there, and the setting is wonderful.
There are two ways to get to Tripiti. The first one is to hire a small boat to get you there and arrange to pick you up later. Ask around at the tavernas and you will be given more info about who can take you there and how much it will cost. The second way is to take the community bus and go to Korfos and then continue on the marked path of 4 Km that takes you to the beach. The path goes up and down, but it is not a difficult one. Maybe it is not recommended for small children.
There are absolutely no facilities at the beach (so take plenty of water! Your last chance to do so is at the tavernas in Korfos) but there is a landmark there that you should visit: at the edge of the cape there is a huge chair reading "Southern Point Of Europe" (sic!). From that point you have a magnificent view of the Libyan sea.
