Aghia Galini
Now a busy resort struggling to retain its charm against the weight of tourism. The main beach is of coarse sand, fronted by tavernas and is often crowded. The naturist beach used to be reached by fording the river at the end of the main beach; however a bridge has now been built with the result that the sandy beach is now entirely textile and naturists are restricted to the rocky area below the quarry road. This consists of a number of small stony coves: it is very long but rocky both on shore and in the sea. As it might be offensive to bare all 20 yards from a textile party, it is necessary to walk until you find an unoccupied or already naturist cove. Most coves have only enough sand for one or two towels. When the waves are high, descent into the sea may be crab-wise. This is very much a second-class beach and although well used by nudists cannot be recommended (Rating: 30%).
A much nicer beach - though one where naturism is forbidden by large signs, is at Aghios Georgios: a pleasant (though quite energetic) walk to the north (follow the rocks with red dots painted on them). There is an unusual taverna overlooking this beach; well worth a visit.
A correspondent who visited in 1994 reports that they had to pay to park in the central town square by the harbour, for the first time ever! Not good news if it demonstrates how commercialised the place is getting.
Ag Pavlos western beach Agios Pavlos H2 1,5
Reached from a side road off the Spili to Agios Galini main road. The side road passes through the villages of Ano and Kato Saktouria and is now tarmac all the way. The nudist beach is over a headland to the west of the main beach. There are two bays that you can get down to; they are separated by a big rock. Warning: the sand goes all the way up the cliffs which you sink into whilst climbing down - your feet can get burnt if you are just wearing sandals or less (some - er - Barefooters recommend wearing socks). Then there is a long almost deserted beach under the cliff. It is also possible to get to Aghios Pavlos by the daily boat from Aghia Galini to Preveli which stops here on the way. This is a very attractive sandy nudist beach with great opportunities for walking nude on the long beach to the west.
A report from summer 1999 confirms this beach remains was uncrowded and primarily naturist although the sand hills do make both outward and return walks something of a scramble; definitely not for the unfit! The Captain visited in September 1999 (my, was it really so long ago?) and confirms this assessment. Ag Pavlos is a bit off the beaten track but is worth a visit. Afterwards enjoy a drink at Mama Eva's taverna overlooking the main (textile) beach.
One reporter found the entry to the beach by following a rocky sand way off the main road – to the west - just before Agios Pavlos. Turn to the right in 300m before Agios Pavlos (Lat=35.105076N Lon=24.564035E) to the small unpaved road. Drive 200m and it will lead you right to the headland above of the beach. You will just have to step down to the beach (Lat=35.104530N Lon=24.560108E). A small rock on the side indicates ‘Long Beach’. After leaving the car, the descent to the beach (either entirely via the sand dunes OR via a small path along the cliff) is quite dangerous! See the picture:
However, it is worth the effort and it keeps textiles away. The beach has a beautiful sea view! My contributor thinks it is definitely something to recommend and rates it 90%.
Ag Pavlos eastern beachBy September 2005, the sandy cliffs had become less of a problem: there are steps cut into the cliff up from the main beach (some remarkable coloured rock formations at the top!), and a sort of board walk takes the strain out of mot of the descent to the first of the bays the other side. The second is still quite hard to reach, however. A hedge has grown up in front of Mama Eva’s taverna, blocking the view altogether; but there’s quite a reasonable cafe right on the main beach.
In June 2005 the eastern beach was 50% textiles 50% nude. The western one can easily be reached by first going on the rock in the middle and then following the stepped path signed by paint down the rock. It was almost deserted apart from 3 nude couples. My reporters had a great day at this beach.
Barefoot reporters visited during July 2007 and decided to settle in the second bay. As soon as you climb down to the bay, look back - you will see excellent cave to hide from the strong sun and wind. They spent one amazing day there. In addition to our reporters there were two couples and one single man, all nude. The main problem that day was strong wind from the sea. It can cause flying sand and troubles climbing over the rock.
TRIOPETRA
From the Spili to Agia Marina road, turn right through Akoumia. After about 10 km, with beautiful breathtaking views to Libyan see, mountains and Paximadia Island, you reach the sea. You arrive at the eastern end of the beach near the Cantina and clothed area. The 3 rocks of Triopetra are to your left. The whole beach must be 1200 metres or so. Turn west and there is initially a dirt track then a concrete road parallel with the beach for about a kilometre, then the road carries on to another bay.
This beach is sandy, with clean water, no wind, and almost no people: in 3 days our contributors saw only 3 other people, all of them naked, and they rated it the most beautiful beach (of many) they found anywhere on Crete.
They drove back through Ag. Paraskevi and Kerames to Spili, but it’s a very steep and rough track indeed as far as Ag. Paraskevi, and they don’t recommend this route.
Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2004 followed a dirt track above Ligres (using a jeep) that finally lead around a curve where suddenly a concrete road along the coast started. There was a 2km. long beach with almost no people on it. The 2/3 till the first taverna was 100% nude (only 4 couples). This is a really great beach for nude sunbathing. Only downside: there is always a strong current and waves.
One Barefooter says he can highly recommend Triopetra beach. He discovered it by chance some years ago. Don't be confused by the signs. As you near the coast, keep going straight ahead, don't turn left. You'll see a 'light orange 'taverna perched above the beach on your right as you get to the coast called 'Yarkirdns' (great place to stay). Turn right on the beach and go to the far (western) end before you 'get comfortable'. My reporter calls this beach 'paradiso'. It would have to be his all time favourite.
The Captain has previously warned that there must be long-term concerns for the future of this place, unfortunately. there is apparently talk of building a 1,000-room hotel nearby. Make the most of it while you can. Unfortunately it sounds as if the downturn has already started. The correspondent who called the beach "paradiso" tells me that when he returned in September 2006 he was horrified to see that a sealed road has now been created behind the beach, which runs parallel to the shoreline, and has completely destroyed the privacy that this incredible beach once had. It has ruined what he thought was one of Crete's best beaches! A real shame.
LIGRES G2 8,8
Ligres beach is accessible by a good road (follow sign from Kerames to "LIGRES" and "Best Beach" - straight ahead at the junction in Kerames). An idyllic part of the coast which cannot long remain undeveloped. Take advantage of it whilst you can.
The Captain took this advice in September 1999. There had clearly been a major bush fire in this area and the road to Ligres passed through burned out woodland. There is a taverna at the end of the road and also what is described as a "mini-market" - although the Captain understands that this is in the bedroom of the taverna owner!
Walk east along the beach from here. The further you walk, the more nude and deserted it becomes. Pass a large rock at the water's edge and, if you are lucky, you will have miles of deserted beach all to yourselves.
The beach was long, made of sand and small pebbles, and easy to walk on in bare feet. Wonderful swimming (partly rock shelf underfoot, similar to Kommos). We had something like half a mile of beach with one other (nude) couple on it. It is immensely reassuring that deserted yet beautiful places like this can still be found. The Captain returned in September 2003 and 2004 and can confirm that little has changed.
You could walk naked for miles along this beach. The Captain set off exploring to the east as far as the eye could see. The beach curves slightly to the left, and the Captain could see the enormous dune in the distance which appeared to be Ag Pavlos. Blissful.
A report from June 1999 spoke of a taverna open with rooms to rent sign. There were about 6 textiles in front of the taverna, 3 people nude other end of beach. 2nd bay one other couple. Excellent, quiet all day. A later report from summer 1999 confirms plenty of scope for nude sunbathing but with a moderate sea running, swimming would have been ill advised due to the very strong undertow.
Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2004 found some textiles and campers at the entrance to the beach. Also, because of where the sun was, it looked a bit "grey". So they decided to try and drive a little more to the east. We followed a dirt track on the top of the cliffs and had a great view over Ligres. But we could not get back down to the coast. Subsequently it would have been better to walk along the beach from Ligres to the east. They saw only a small number op people on the beach, all nude.
Another beach can be found by walking to the west of the taverna at Ligres. There is a small path along the rocky shore. If, after walking about 50m, you see a small water fall, you are in the right direction. The path involves some "light" climbing, but my contributor thinks that anyone can follow it easily. After about 300m you reach a small bay -about 200m long- that is totally deserted.
Ligres beachThe beach has small pebbles and coarse sand, while some large rocks provide shadow. The sea is fine and deepens slowly. The bottom of the sea has fine pebbles near the shore, then some smooth rocks and finally sand. My contributors visited on a weekday of August and the beach was occupied by only two more naked couples.
It is a very quiet place, though sometimes it might be occupied by some free campers (there are sings of free camping near the rocks, but no litter at all). Wearing sandals, my contributors were able to do a long nude walk over the headland to the west that divides this beach from the Kerame beach and wander on that beach too.
And still another beach, according to correspondents from the summer of 2003, by going 200-300m over the rocks to the east of the taverna, when they found about 500m of “empty sand beach, only for us”. Sounds good!
Barefooters who visited in June 2005 found, at the beginning of the beach, were some textiles and campers. Also, because of where the sun was, it looked a bit "grey". So they decided to try and drive a little more to the east. They followed a dirt track on the top of the cliffs and had a great view over Ligres. But they could not get back down to the beach. It would have been better to walk along the beach from Ligres to the east. They saw only a small number of people on the beach, all nude.
AGHIA FOTINI
Again access from the Spili to Ag, Galini Road, this time via the villages of Aktounda, Vatos and others.
To go to Agios Fotini beach turn right at Kerames. Now a good road to taverna and road continues around the headland to private house. Reasonable standard road through very rugged country to a taverna by a very pebbly beach.
You have to climb on rough stones to move around the headland (earlier reports suggested that there was a rough track - if so it seems to have disappeared). There is another building further round the headland. Totally deserted beach, sand and pebbles, enabled a nude swim with no disturbance. Real "end of nowhere" feel about the place.
A report from 1998 says this is still a totally deserted sand and pebble beach. However carry on walking beyond this around the small headland to find first beautiful, sandy beach, some 75 yards wide backed by huge sand dunes and green hillside. The beach is about 100 yards long with clean sand and continues past the next headland with another similar beach backed by 100ft sand dunes (this, the Captain believes, is Ligres beach). We spent the day in the second bay and only saw one other couple. Perfect "away from it all" beach - no facilities, no people, no clothes, no hassle! A report from June 1999 found textile male Greek bathers there albeit on a Sunday.
My correspondents went for a nude walk and rather ambitiously climbed around the rocky cliffs for 200 yards or so to find another enormous sandy beach stretching into the distance inhabited by only 2 naked couples - perfect! With hindsight they think the naked climb over the sharp rocky cliffs was rather foolhardy and would have been more comfortable had we worn clothes (and boots!). Continuing along this beach brings you to a taverna and another mile or more of golden sand.
DRIMISKIANOS
Drimiskianos is a pleasant beach with alternating sand or pebbles; it's also fairly empty and you don't have to walk more than 200m along the beach before picking a spot for nude sunbathing and swimming. It is very empty and over 1 mile long, and its eastern end (away from Palm Beach) seems ripe for naturism now that Preveli Palm Beach itself has been lost.
To get there by car, take the Preveli monastery road. About 4km before the monastery (if you're heading south) cross the car bridge over the Megalopótamos, right next to a lovely 19th century foot bridge, (nearby which there is a new taverna) and follow the hand-made signs for "Palm Beach". Follow this road, which starts at GPS waypoint: N35 10' 22.5" E24 28' 02.6", for 4-5km over the hills. Previous reports suggested that the first half is paved. The Captain can confirm that this is not the case - the first few metres is, that's all. The rest of the road is unpaved and although evidently navigable by ordinary car it will be best with a jeep or 4-WD. Upon reaching the shore you'll see a couple of tavernas offering free parking. Park there (GPS waypoint: N35 09' 13.0" E24 28' 43.4") and walk east, or drive east along the road that follows the beach.
You can also get there from Preveli Beach - there is a path over the cliffs.
A report from October 2001 says Drimiskianos was almost deserted, with the exception of the area next to the parking lot . My contributors walked to the dramatic looking rocks and dark cliffs. In front of them was a nude couple, and behind them a nice secluded cove, which they enjoyed all by themselves. It is a long walk, but it's worth it.
A correspondent reports that in July 2003 this beach was almost completely deserted, although Palm Beach was overcrowded at the same time. Only near the parking lot, there were a few textile visitors, but more east only (even fewer) naturists. A lot of fish in the sea, and there is a large rock in the sea where youngsters were (safely) jumping from.
A report from July 2002 says that the road that follows the beach to the east was blocked by rocks after the first 500 metres.
PREVELI BEACH G2 5,9
To reach Preveli by car, follow the instructions to Drimiskianos above, park at the tavernas which offer free parking, and walk west along the footpath to Preveli (5 minutes). If you don't want to drive over unpaved roads and don't mind climbing, there is another option: park at the Palm Beach parking lot, about 1.5km below the monastery, and climb down do the beach along a steep but well-marked and busy trail. Allow 15-20 minutes to climb down and 30-45 minutes to climb up.
If you don't have a car, take the tourist boats that leave from Plakias and call at Damnoni.
Alternatively you go by car to the Preveli Monastery and step down by foot to the beach. Previous correspondents told me this takes about 15 minutes down and 30 up. A more recent estimate is 35 minutes down and 45 minutes to an hour up - either my earlier correspondent is really a mountain goat or the latter has become a little too relaxed … however he also says that many people were wearing climbing boots. The Rough Guide notes that the climb is "steep, rocky and surprisingly arduous." An easier way of getting there may be by using one of the tourist boats from Plakias and Damnoni.
Preveli Beach it widely featured on picture postcards and is undoubtedly very scenic, as a beach which comprises a river mouth. Earlier reports indicated a naturist character, with "a lot of anatomy on display". However, Preveli is now totally commercialised with umbrellas and tavernas. The beach is small and covered with sunbeds and umbrellas. Walking further over the headland there is a taverna and car park (at the end of the long unmade track). Even having climbed all the way down my correspondents did not feel in the slightest bit tempted to stay amongst the clothed visitors and did not even swim in the rather cloudy water before climbing back and travelling to one of the much more attractive and accessible beaches. Don't risk your ankles - it's not worth the climb! Palm beach at Preveli
Some GPS waypoints (in WGS-84): the Preveli monastery: N35 09' 27.3"
E24 27' 25.3", the parking lot: N35 09' 14.5" E24 28' 13.7", Palm Beach
itself: N35 09' 09.6" E24 28' 24.1". See also the picture taken from the
foot path from the parking lot down to the Palm beach.
Although Preveli is no longer recommended for naturism one hears you can walk up the gorge through the palm trees and some people sunbathe and swim nude in the pools formed in the stream as it climbs. Barefoot reporters who visited Preveli in Septemnber 2006 did this. They followed the path under the trees to where the river formed some pools. They found a nice hidden place and decided to "open the nude beach". The pool was more than 2 metres deep and the water was clear and a bit colder than the ocean. Apart from occasional passing tourists you could think you are on a lonely island. Really great place, only the walk back to the car is a minus.
A report indicates that there is now an easy track over the cliff leading East to Drimiskianos.
A correspondent from October 2004 reports a long stretch of mainly sandy beach with a few rocks about 1 km east of Preveli, along a very rough road through the mountains after crossing the river by a ford near a stone bridge. Worth it though, because the beach is about 1 km long, and about 95% nude (until the cool of the evening when clothes became necessary to keep warm). Rated 95. The same correspondent speaks highly of a nearby beach called Prakais, also about 95% nudist over its 1km length, with some textiles on only the last 150m or so. I have not been able to identify this beach, and unfortunately he does not give directions to it.
SKINARIA BEACH G3 1,0
This very scenic beach is reached via a fairly long but satisfactory road from Lefkogia. Skinaria Beach Hotel, set back from the beach, appeared to be abandoned in September 1988. A shame, because it looked as if it was once a very nice hotel and did not overlook the beach. A brand new Taverna (the Libyan Star) is coming to completion overlooking the coarse sand beach, and a diving school had set up its headquarters in the basement.
The Captain called at the taverna for a beer and to have a look at the beach in September 1998. Naturism was being practised on the left hand side (looking towards the sea) despite the fact that the (clothed) diving school was in full session on the right hand side.
The turning to the beach is well signposted, from both directions, in the middle of Lefkogia village.
Fortunately, some correspondents also visited in 1998 and stayed for a bit longer than I did. This is their account: Beautiful beacSkinaria Beachh overlooked by the Libyan Star taverna (proprietor plays surprisingly good Blues tapes at lunch time!). While the right hand end of the beach is heavily used by the diving school from Rethymnon, the left hand part remains a nudist enclave. Wonderful for snorkelling with plenty of fish. Shelving shingle beach - good swimming and beautiful setting. The diving school tend to remain at "their" end of the beach and were in no way intrusive. It was however disconcerting to be snorkelling and see two or three divers pass below you! The taverna served very welcome cold drinks and good food and was set sufficiently far back from the beach to not intrude on the quiet ambience of the beach. Our hosts told us that The Skinaria Beach Hotel (a few hundred yards back up the road) was apparently abandoned suddenly - and drinks were left on the tables and behind the bar!"
Not everyone feels comfortable stripping off here, though, particularly because of the taverna and the diving school. Others (e.g. a report from summer 2002) say the atmosphere in the naturist section was very relaxed, good snorkelling, and that the beach ought to be highly recommended.
A correspondent reports that in July 2003 almost all of the beach was
textile (except for himself), but confirms that not everybody likes
stripping there (like the rest of his family). But the snorkelling was
good (even if you sometimes see divers pass deep below you).
Correspondents in July 2004 and June 2005 both report no naturists at all. It’s a truly magical spot as the sun goes down behind the multiple folds of mountains into the sea, however!
The road to the beach starts in Lefkogia at GPS waypoint N35 10' 41.6"
E24 26' 34.5". The beach itself is at N35 09' 59.5" E24 25' 20.7".
AMOUDI BEACH. G3 1,0.
Marked by yellow patch on the map which corresponds to Amoudi and Damnoni but is unlabelled. It is reached by a road (signpost Amoudi Beach Hotel) between Lefkogia and Damnoni. The hotel is set back from the beach. During September 1998 naturists were present early in the morning but by lunchtime the beach was mostly textile. An earlier report from 1998 confirmed that nudism was sometimes practised on Amoudi. Some days it was completely textile, on other days there were about 50% naturists or less. The nudists generally gather at the left hand side (eastern side) of the beach. A visit in September 1999 confirms this impression. The water is not as clear here as in the Mikro Amoudi coves.
This road to the beach starts at GPS waypoint N35 10' 37.8" E24 26' 06.3". The Amoudi beach itself is at N35 10' 16.8" E24 25' 14.8".
Some reports suggest that the Amoudi beach had become completely textile. The Captain was last there (passing through on the way to Mikro Amoudi) in September 2004 and noted that the naturist pattern (or lack of it) had not changed.
MIKRO AMOUDI (or Amoudaki)
See Mikro Amoudi on Google Maps
A correspondent on the Barefoot Forum informs us that these beaches, which we have always known as the larger and smaller coves of Micro Amoudi, are properly known as Amoudaki and Micro Amoudaki respectively. The two coves sit between Damnoni and Amoudi beaches, easily reachable from either. By car they are best reached from Amoudi. A short path leads from Amoudi (park at the car park behind Amoudi beach and walk up the hill to the right facing the sea. After a few metres you come to an inaccessible rocky cove; a few metres more brings you to the smaller of the two coves; and yet a few metres further to the larger cove. The total distance is not more than 200 metres from the car park. From Damnoni, it is about 300 metres. The tracks are not sensibly navigable by car, however. From Damnoni the path to the east is now navigable by car but easier on foot. It is well worth the effort.
The larger cove at Mikro Amoudi (Amoudaki itself)
The more westerly of the two beaches is a superb cove of golden sand (see picture) with hardly a stitch of clothing in sight, despite the advent of beach umbrellas and, unbelievably but very usefully, a free cold shower. Sunbeds and parasols were available at 3 Euros a day each. It is a popular beach, though not large, and gets crowded in high season. The Captain has now visited this beach for the fourth time (most recently in September 2002) and confirms that it is usually 99% nude. During 1999, however, the number of umbrellas and sunbeds crammed into what was a Cretan Eden has increased, leaving little room for those of us who prefer to use beach mats and our own parasol on a short visit. This made the beach feel crowded even in late September/early October. When the Captain last visited (September 2006) there seemed to be so little room left that he felt the beach was in danger of being spoiled.
These considerations reduce my rating for the beach from 95% a few years ago to 85%.
Some contributors note a very attractive relaxed atmosphere. It is also visited by all categories of people. Young, middle aged and old people, different nationalities. There are as many women as men. This is a place where even young single women feel comfortable to go naked.
What better recommendation could there be?
Contributors from 2004 and 2005 confirm all the above; several enjoyed being among a larger group of naturists, rather than having to hide away behind rocks, or seek out unfrequented corners. Another comments that, after Ibiza, it certainly did not feel in the least crowded even at the height of summer! Refreshments are now sometimes available from the girl who looks after the umbrellas. She also often even finds time to take little pottery ash-trays to sunbathers who are smoking!
Barefoot reporters who were there in July 2007 confirmed earlier reports. This fabulous little beach hosts a very mixed crowd of families, couples and singles of both sexes and all ages, different nationalities, all totally relaxed and comfortable with each other. 80%+ nude, with many mixed textile/nude groups and families. Sunbeds and umbrellas are getting a trifle expensive at 9 euros a set (price went up 2006). Refreshments from the sunbed lady's cantina still reasonably priced. In the sea, the swell can be a problem and can spring up even on calm days, hence the less than 100% rating - watch the kids.
The doughnut man from Plakias Bay is has been a welcome visitor - in 2007 he was arriving around 5pm.
One correspondent found strong winds and reckoned it was only about 50% nude that day, but all other estimates are of 90%+ nudity, whatever the season, day or time; ratings, where given, are from 90 to 100 points.
The smaller cove at Mikro Amoudi
The more easterly Mikro Amoudi beach is a tiny cove. Reaching it involves climbing down a short but almost vertical cliff - be careful, we bear the scars; it is certainly not easy and stout footwear is essential. This cove is surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides. A rocky pinnacle stands out of the water. Everyone in this little cove was naked (September 1997). As in many parts of Greece the water was beautifully clear. Swimming around the pinnacle was utter bliss. On revisiting this beach this year I found myself thinking that if I were to give 100% to any beach I personally know this would be it. But the difficulty in getting down to it must knock off a point or two. (Rating: 98%).
Apart from swimming around the rock, there were other activities which correspondents say they have enjoyed: Sitting nude on the rock in the sun, with your feet in the water / Jumping from the 6m high surrounding cliffs into the water, by young textile locals in the afternoon (NB the Captain does NOT recommend trying this yourself).
A report from 1998 described the smaller Micro Amoudi beach as nice, but sometimes textile. Various reports suggest that the first visitors of the day determines its textile or nude character; equally, however, once somebody strips others seem quick to follow. The site is well protected and has a real "naturist community" effect.
Stronger swimmers will normally have no difficulty in swimming between the two coves. One of my contributors even describes walking back by the road top descend to the smaller beach naked and on bare feet - the Captain would not recommend that, though; the route is rocky and stony.
One day in June 2005 there were no less than 18 people who had dressed up to come here, and only 2 upholding naturism - that did feel rather crowded, and in the wrong sort of way, but was fortunately an exception. The larger beach was much to be preferred that day.
The Captain has received a number of similar reports suggesting a proportion of textiles in this idyllic little cove, but it is quite clearly still very much a place for nudists.
One recent contributor has found an “underwater door” on the right hand side, connecting to the larger beach, which he says was easy to swim through. The Captain does NOT recommend this unless you are a very confident and strong swimmer - we do not want to lose any naturists this way!
However, a word of warning. The pictures here suggest a picture of calmness and tranquillity, and indeed that is a true image of the state of these beaches during much of of the summer. But occasionally the sea does become lively. The sea bed slopes quite quickly and there are rocks to the sides. It is said that in certain conditions there is an undertow. In rough conditions great care should be taken while swimming, and if you have children with you the much shallower beach at Plakias might be a safer bet at such times.
DAMNONI
From the east of Plakias beach it is possible to follow a path to Damnoni (about half an hour's walk) - the path starts behind the Plakias Bay hotel (this is the roughest part) and is waymarked by red spots and arrows on stones.
An easier access by car is to take the road from Plakias to Lefkogia and take a small road (at GPS waypoint N35 10' 54.6" E24 25' 03.6") with signs to the "Hapimag" time sharing complex. The Damnoni beach itself is at GPS coordinates N35 10' 29.4" E24 24' 51.5".
Damnoni Beach is a large stretch of sand with a two tavernas and a cantina. The middle of Damnoni beach is now dominated by "Hapimag" a large timeshare complex aimed at German tourists (a developments which is signposted for several miles around), and the Damnoni Beach Hotel behind it. There is a large area of sun umbrellas and parasols. The derelict "Minoan Prince Hotel" stands over the eastern end. The Captain remembers that in 1991 the eastern end was naturist. Reports from September 1997 and 1998 said that there were no naturists. However when the Captain last visited in September 2000 there was a small enclave of naturists on sunbeds with parasols at the far eastern end. Don't count on it, though; and anyway Mikro Amoudi is only a couple of minutes' walk round the headland from here.
For years The Captain has kept this entry alive because mainly of some pleasant memories of blissful nude relaxation on this beach in the mid 1990s - before the advent of beach umbrellas across the whole length of the beach. Some isolated nudity could be found at the eastern end. But as of 2005 contributors are asking why anyone would want to come here now, unless to park a car and walk the 300 metres to Mikro Amoudi.
KALYPSO
The Captain still receives occasional enquiries about Kalypso. Unfortunately the sad news is that Kalypso is no longer available for naturists. It is difficult to imagine that this relatively old fashioned and isolated hotel without a beach is that attractive if it were not for its rather unique status as a nudist destination. There are many advertisements around Plakias for Kalypso Rock's [sic] diving school.
PLAKIAS
See Plakias Bay on Google Maps
Plakias has a very friendly community, and repeated visits have led the Captain to develop a real affection for the place and its people. And it is surrounded by wonderful scenery and some of the best beaches the Captain has had the pleasure to visit are in the vicinity.
But the future of this destination, for many years a great attraction to Crete-bound naturists and possessing what is surely one of Europe's best naturist beaches, is uncertain. Plans are in hand to build a huge development of studios and apartments on the land between the main part of the town and the naturist beach (in fact the development seems to be just west of the Drimiskianos studios). Although the plans do not suggest that this resort will extend as far as the naturist beach itself, there must be at least some risk that the arrival of large numbers of new visitors will have a negative effect. Work has started on building the foundations and the developers apparently expected that the first phase will be complete in 2010. But then came the global recession and work stopped because the firm went bust.
The Plakias Bay beach (GPS N35 10.877 E24 24.064) is a huge stretch of golden sand. The south east end is fine sand, with umbrellas and sunbeds, and primarily nude for the last section (three or four hundred metres) which is largely screened from the road by dunes. The entry to the sea is shallow for some way out, which may make it more suitable for children than some of the other naturist beaches in the area. There are showers on the beach, although sometimes reduced to a trickle. It is also quite busy. Very pleasant and well recommended. This is one of my favourite nudist beaches in the whole of Greece (rating 97%).
The naturist section is often by far the most crowded part of the beach, with very few dissenters among the naked ones. It is one of the best beaches in terms of feeling comfortable with fellow sunbathers whilst being so close to the town and road. Extra vitamina!
The setting is perfect. Mountains on three sides, a small fertile valley, and a beach about two miles long. The headland to the west is shaped like the head of a sleeping dragon (watch him breathe fire at sunset).
The east side of the beach (hidden from the road by a few dunes) is mostly nude, with a simple and friendly atmosphere. The hotel behind (Plakias Bay Hotel) can be recommended. Barefooters also recommend Paligremnos Apartments, right opposite the nudist beach.
Plakias beach is a bit of a magnet for the Captain, I'm afraid; I keep coming back, most recently in September 2006 when it was just as perfect as ever.
The doughnut man calls every day, yum, yum! He calls: "Extra vitamina! Extra! A doughnut a day keeps the doctor away …"
Beach umbrellas extend into the nudist area and are used by nudists. Enough room in front and beyond them for those not wanting one. 90% nudist in this area. Early reports from 2001 reported "no beach facilities -either umbrellas or doughnuts" but by the end of May all were back in place. A beautiful beach in a beautiful bay. Another report wished that the beach could be cleaner. Cleanliness has not in the past been a significant problem here. Reports from June 2002 suggest more naturists than ever at the Eastern end, and sunbeds priced at 6 Euros per day.
Many reports have been received in 2004 and 2005, mostly very positive and confirming all the above. The sun-beds now cost only 5 euros per day; and there are now reported to be beach bars in both the non-naturist and the naturist sections. Two reports, however, speak of flotsam and rubbish; another found that seaweed and flies were an unpleasant nuisance also; and another described the water as rather murky. In spite of this, overall impressions are still favourable, and two reports particularly commend it for young families.
Reports from June 2007 say that Plakias beach is just as perfect as ever, with the shower in full working order and the doughnut man alive and well. It's well signposted and has good access roads.
More information about Plakias can be found on Ostraco's Plakias page. It includes worrying ideas about huge new developments and extending building in Plakias along the beach road. This could all too easily ruin everything.
Some contributors recommend Lance Chilton's brochures outlining walks in the Plakias area. They're very good if you want to get to the beaches on foot. There are 10 walks in the Plakias area, 7 more challenging walks in Plakias. It can be obtained in the supermarket next to the bus stop in Plakias.
The local authority has taken to arranging a free festival for the benefit of the tourists on "Tourism day" at the end of September, with food and local wine, music, singing and dancing. Thank you to Finikas authority and all involved for this generous and enjoyable gesture.
