Vai
The palm fronted beach at Vai (right), used in the "Bounty Hunters" commercial, is a great tourist attraction and coaches arrive from all over Crete. I fear that those who have travelled for hours to reach it will be disappointed. A poster picturing the beach through a row of palm trees is widely available, but how many visitors realise that this picturesque scene has now been ruined by a large taverna and shop placed in exactly that spot. The beach is dotted with sunshades and a wooden walkway stretches from one end to the other. It is not used by nudists.
To the south, a short and pleasant walk over the headland, passing in front of the 'taverna' and then up the hill, is a smaller beach. There is still a sign on the path saying 'Nudist Beach' but it's small and easily missed. On the occasion of our my contributors' visit there were about a dozen people on the beach of whom about half were nude. The numbers, and the proportion, varied throughout their stay of about three hours. It is then a wonderfully quiet beach considering what's just round the corner. People did wander over the headland but few strayed down to the beach and there was no sense of discomfort. Beyond the beach it is possible to walk further by climbing onto the next headland and continuing further south. Here there are spectacular inlets (all completely inaccessible) and rocky cliffs. My contributor walked naked for about 45 minutes and saw no-one in a wild and completely desolate landscape
Other reports suggest the beach is now disappointing: in May 2000 proportions down to 2 nude couples in the rocks and 10 textiles, not even topless but at least there were no umbrellas on the beach. In June 2001 a contributor found the beach dominated by textiles and had to go to the back of the beach to sunbathe naked, and swim in a costume.
Still other reports said that the ambiance was very relaxed, very quiet, and a really enjoyable place for swimming in the perfectly clear water and walking on the beach.
A report from early summer 1999 described the beach south of Vai over the headland as one of the best on Crete. It is sandy and truly nudist. About five couples and one man were there when my correspondent visited it.
Unfortunately a report from September 2000 suggests it was full of textiles. This beach seems to change its character all the time.
A couple of Barefoot reporters who visited in September 2004 found the beach textile, so decided to go snorkelling and swim to the small rock/island. From there they discovered that just to the north of Vai was another beach.
They swam back ashore, took our bags and walk north around the rocks and there we found some other nudist that we decided to join. It was a great place to sun just around the corner from all the tourist. Only downside: the driver of the speedboat with a banana behind it thought us nudists were a great attraction for his passengers, so every trip he navigated very close to the beach, making a sudden turn with the result that all his passengers fell of the banana and had to climb on it again or swim ashore.
According to a report from July 2006. to north of Vai beach go (500 m on foot from the main beach) there are two beautiful small beach with 3 or 4 couples 100% nude (July 2006).
Itanos
North of Vai it is sometimes possible to enjoy naturism on the most northerly of the beaches at Itanos: often deserted and no facilities; however reports suggest that the beach can be quite easily dominated by textiles and any nudists there "shelter" behind rocks.
A report from June 2002 says there were both textiles and naturists on the northern beach. The nuddies certainly weren't "sheltering" - they were in full view. Unusually for a mixed beach, the textiles were at the far end! Car park GPS waypoint N 35 15' 52" E 26 15' 44", then just stroll north over the slight rise for no more than 150m. A report from September 2004 describes it as a superb cove, with some campers walking around nude. A report from July 2006 describes it as beautiful, with nude people.
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Maridati beach (signpost on the Vaï/Palekastro road) is said to be nudist at the northern end.
Also nearby, within walking distance of the village of Paleokastro, is a pleasant beach. The Captain had understood that this area was named Chiona, but I am assured it is better considered part of Paleokastro. Small cliffs back on to the beach at the southern end. When the Captain visited in the mid-1990s nudity with discretion was possible here during the week; however it is well visited by Greek families especially at the weekends. (Rating: 40%)
The centre of Palekastro is a mile inland from a bay several miles long which lies roughly NW-SE. The NW end of this bay is marked by the tiny fishing harbour of Kouremenos and a ridge running E-W inland. The southeast end is wild and essentially inaccessible. From Kouremenos the bay starts off as a single sweep of gravelly sand ending in a sandstone hill, whose cliffs drop sheer into the sea. Chiona is on the southern slopes of this hill, and a "beach at Chiona" would be expected to be the half mile sweep of gravelly sand south of the hill running past the ancient site of Rousolakkos until low cliffs break in.
The naturist beach is actually immediately north of the hill. A dirt track runs all the way behind the beaches from Kouremenos to Rousolakkos, and there is ample parking area alongside the track for almost all its length. The naturist beach runs for at least 400m from the cliff barrier at N 35 12' 12" E 26 16' 32".
According to a report from June 2002, except at the very start of the day, there were never less than half a dozen nuddies around, and the numbers got up to a maximum of perhaps twenty. There were couples, families, singles. At the north-western end there was a certain amount of mixing, with outcrops of textiles in amongst the nuddies, then nuddies amongst the textiles, but nobody seemed bothered - there was plenty of room for everyone. I'd rate this beach quite highly. Although there wasn't a lot of fine sand, you could find patches if that was what you wanted, and the cliffs at the end were so steep that there was shade available throughout the day. Very peaceful, and with a good view. No sunbeds, umbrellas or beach bars, which might be a problem for some - others might find this a distinct advantage.
You can get to Palekastro beach from the north (Kouremenos end) or the south (Chiona end). From Palekastro centre, follow signs for Vai. The road swings to and fro, then runs north and almost dead straight for about a mile before swinging inland at the base of a ridge. Turn right at this point (signed "Cigales Seagull") onto a tarmac road towards the sea. After 300m turn right onto a dirt track immediately behind the beach. Go past two restaurants and over a very slight rise to N 35 12' 19" E 26 16' 14", which is the northwestern end of the behind-beach parking area / extra-wide track. (This is also the route to use if coming towards Palekastro from Vai or Mount Toplou - go straight on towards the sea once you've slanted down the ridge.) Alternatively, in Palekastro follow signs for Chiona and Zakros (right fork in the centre), then fork left following signs to Chonia Beach (also a brown sign for the archeological sites). Turn left and follow the tarmac until it runs out and the road becomes a well-used dirt track. Follow this track, which soon curves round to the left and heads north-west. Just after some large shed-type buildings on the right, take the narrow track turning off to the right (N 35 12' 07" E 26 16' 16"). This leads to the middle of the behind-beach parking area. There are other tracks around, but this is the simplest to describe!
Kato Zakros contains a few tavernas but is mainly known for the archaeological site. The beach is at least half a kilometre long. It is stony and bathing might be difficult in rough weather. When my contributor visited in mid-June 2001 the southern end of the beach was being used by naturists.
There are said to be some nice beaches in Makrgialos (turn left at Makrigialos when you come from Sitia, after a few hundred meters park the car and go down to the beach).
Xerokambos
My contributor found directions on Page 180 of the Rough Guide (1998) and found their beach just beyond the tiny church (monastery). They shared the beach with a few people on the first day (mostly nude) and had it to tehmselves for most of the second. A Greek famlily arrived for part of the day and although they stuck resolutely to their cozzies didn't seem fazed by my contributors' nudity. It would seem quite likely that there are other small beaches in this area which are eminently suited to naturism, albeit alone. This is a very remote part of Crete and if solitude isn't your thing you may not be too happy here. My contributors rented a two room apartment in Xerokambos overlooking the sea for less than £20 for the night, and this in August too, and would be very happy to return for a longer stay. The old road into the hamlet (from Zakros) is just a rough track, and a long one at that, whereas the new metalled road which takes you to Ziros is as dramatic as you could wish. However, lacking crash barriers for most of the way it is something of a white knuckle ride for those of a nervous disposition.
Over the headland by this beach there is another large beach that is usually deserted despite some property sitting well back. To get to this part stay on the main road towards Ziros but just where the road turns inland and immediately after a small store on the left (handy for water / Amstel!) take the rough road down to the beach and go to the end. My contributor has used this beach many times (1997 to 2001) with no problems as basically there is nobody there. Other occasional visitors are usually 'sans' cozzie as well! The road to Ziros is truly spectacular but, as already mentioned, has no barriers.
Some Barefooters have noted that textile families seem to have a habit of arriving at unpredictable times. But if one wears her nudity with pride and a little attitude, chances are good for nude sunbathing, swimming and walking.
The Western one of the two big Xerokambos beaches ( 35 2'12.60"N - 26 13'20.57"E) is probably the best choice for naturists, although the whole general area is full of very small secluded beaches, where one, if lucky, might even be alone.
The most beautiful beach in the area is just under the St. Nicholas church (a 15 min walk from the main beach, or a 5 min scrambling down the cliff from the church), a very small & closed, almost encircled by land, beach, with beautiful natural rock formations (notice the 'bath-tub' on the left) and just a minute walk from the 'clay-all-over-to-cover-you-all' beach. Except for the unavoidable families from time to time, almost all others get rid of their clothes there eventually.
South-Eastern Crete
Our correspondents stayed at Myrtos (19 km west of Ierapetra), which they found a pretty miserable place to stay, there are no facilities to keep you amused, and the beach was definitely no-go for nudity.
Around the corner was hopeless, the road ran alongside, and carried the usual lookers etc.
They had to travel for about 50 minutes east bound, along the coast road until we passed through Makri Gialos, then after about another one or two minutes from the Makrigialos-crossed-out sign, there is a turning on the right hand side, immediately before you follow the road down to the left.
The sign is marked for DIASKARI Apartments. The turn for them is about two hundred metres beyond the end of Analipsi, which is the eastern extension of Makrigialos (not western as appears on some maps). No need to park at the holiday cottages - just drive right to the end. When you can apparently go no further, skirt the rocky outcrop and there is a small cove, nicely secluded, and a haven for nudists. The nudist part is still at the far end but can sometimes stretch a quarter of the way down. A new small snack bar was being built in April 2001. The cove had all but disappeared last September and was not accessable in April 2001. It does however come and go as it pleases!
My correspondents spent many days there, and every one who joined us was completely nude. The rest of the beach was also partly nudist, but not as much fun as the little cove!
A less favourable report from May 2000, however; my correspondents were the only nudists on the beach and were pestered by a local gawper. A correspondent who visited in June 2001 found no nudists at all. The cove is very small, only room for about 6 towels edge to edge. But another correspondent from 2001 reported no problems for a fortnight, and even the local gawper, who arrives by moped, can be disuaded by showing him that he is being looked at too.
A taverna opened at the end of May 2001. My correspondents say it is very good, and that parking by the taverna is easy.
Less promising reports from October 2001. My correspondents, decided to take the opportunity to visit the beach at Diaskari on two occasions. On each occasion they found that all the beach occupants were clothed, this was also the case in the small cove there. Consequently they also kept our swimming costumes on and after a short stay left in disappointment. They later speculated that maybe all the occupants (specially those at the far end) were not willing to take the lead in baring all and were waiting for others to get the ball rolling.
However a contributor from May 2002 said that the cove was fully accessible first week of May and excellent on 5 visits. The rest of the beach at the far end was also OK. This is a well known 'nude' beach in the village of Makrigialos so is usually very good. The new taverna (opened early 2001)at textile end becoming popular and deservedly so. My contributor has been visiting this beach since 1997 and says it rarely disappoints - and gave it a rare 100% rating.
Eftyhia Beach
There is another beach there about 1 kilometre long and can be accessed by walking over the rocky outcrop and is usually 100% nude. It is more easily reached (if you are driving) by taking the Moni Kapsa turn from the Makrigialos/Sitia road (mentioned under Goudhouras): after a couple of hundred metres the road flattens out, with greenhouses visible: there are several dirt-tracks down to the sea, the best being marked by an advance advertisement for Taverna Lair of the Dragon.
When my contributor visited in mid-June 2001, on each of two days, the western three quarters of the beach was occupied by three or four naturists, with three or four textiles in the eastern quarter. The beach is pebbly but very pleasant. My contributor suggested naming this beach Eftyhia Beach after the Eftyhia Taverna (closed) which is the only named object on the road behind; however it is an unofficial name for the beach.
Plenty of scope to walk the entire beach naked as you are in the middle of nowhere. The sea is fantastic but the beach is a bit pebbly and not much in the way of shade. On either of these beaches you will occasionally meet clothed people but nobody takes any notice as it's a well known nudist area in the Village of Makriagialos.
Barefooters who visited Eftyhia in June and September 2005 found it a great beach with lots of space, with everyone nude (they noted some shy ones hiding between the trees).
Another beach area which was also noted for nudists was Agia Fotia, again on the coast road, this time between Ierapetra and Koutsouras. Take a sharp turn off the main road, and follow on down until you reach the car park. Nudism is practised (with some hesitance) east of the taverna and the car park. Among the many rocky outcrops you can easily find a sandy hiding place for yourself if you want. We liked the setting and there were some nudists there but the beach cannot be compared to Lendas or Komos. There is a good taverna, serving cold beers, large greek salads and pizzas etc. A correspondent who visited during May 2000 said it was 50/50 nudist and rated it 90. My correspondent recommends the taverna - excellent value.
Goudouras
This beach can be easily reached from Makrigialos - take the main road to Sitia. Just as you leave Makrigialos, and just after the sign to Diaskari, there is a turning on the right signposted to Kalo Nero, Moni Kapsa (a monastery - worth a look) and Goudouras. Its about 15k I think from Makrigialos on an excellent newish road following the coast. Just before you come to the end of the road and before entering Goudouras there is a large car park. Leave your car / M.Cycle and walk down the cliff on a very easy path to a large sandy beach. As usual, the nudist part is at the far end but it's sandy and very pleasant. No facilities or shade so bring your own. You can be seen from the road but only if the onlooker walks to the edge of the cliff, so no problem. Weekends can be busy with Greek families so common sense prevails - hopefully. In addition along the main coast road there are other coves where you are completely on your own but impossible to describe. You just have to keep your eyes open for likely access points.
Chrissi Island / Gaidouronissi
(The donkey island, but with no donkeys at all) or Chrissi (golden: because of its "golden" sand) is a small (1x5 Km) island southern of Ierapetra. It is well know for its shell beach at the northern part and for its cedar forest. There are boats departing from Ierapetra twice a day (at 10.30 and 12.00-but call the port authority to confirm) and then returning in the afternoon. You can camp in the island, but keep in mind that there are no facilities, except 2 small (and not so cheap) tavernas and that there is no water or electricity in the island (the tavernas use generators). This doesn't disappoint the hundreds of wild campers that spend many days there during the summer (some of them even stay for over a month!).
It is a magnificent and extremely quiet place, although destroyed to a point by "development". In the early 80's, it was fully occupied by naturists, and the whole beach was covered with shells. The boats, dangerously packed with tourists, arrive at about 11.15 and until 16.00 or 18.00 that they leave, the northern beach (which is the most beautiful) is crowded. The eastern part of this beach was occupied by some naturists, but one day we witnessed a very uncomfortable incident: a local scolded a Greek man that was going in the nude. So, as you can see, the part of the beach with the umbrellas may not be the best one to go naked, at least during the "peak hours". After the boats leave the island is yours to enjoy. We heard that the western part of the beach was completely occupied by naturists, but instead of going there, we preferred to visit the southern part of the island. This is were the boat moors. You can continue to the east, until you reach the most eastern part of the island (about 10min walk). There is a small and totally deserted bay (facing the south) where you can go naked. There is also another deserted beach facing the east (both beaches are visible from the boat as you reach the island). Both have small pebbles, some shells and crystal clear waters.
So, the question is: is it worth it? My reporter thinks so. Maybe it is not very wise to go just for one day. There will be too many people (although everyone prefers the northern beach), the boat fare is relatively expensive (6000 gdr-including the return) and the boats themselves are not very reliable. But if you are a wild camping fan, I think it is a very good destination. It is a peaceful and very beautiful place. You can wander in the cedar forest with the white sand hills and during the night you can see one of the best starlit skies. In two words, it is the ideal place to escape "civilisation".
Two notes for those who wish to camp: many people prefer to buy water and some food (cans mostly) from Ierapetra and carry it with them, because the prices at the tavernas are high. Also, please respect the environment: don't light fires, especially using cedar wood. Finally (and this goes to every visitor), PLEASE DON'T COLLECT SHELLS!
A report from 2002 suggests that the Shell Beach is well known as a naturist beach and is well used by local Greek visitors for nude sunning and swimming.
A report from summer 2000 suggests that the beach next to the Golden Beach in Chrissi is totally empty and gives the possibility of walking nude.
Barefoot reporters who visited in June 2005 had a very pleasant day at this Island. On the boat they spoke to one of the crew members who showed us on his map where the nudists normally were. On the north, walk to the west from golden beach. Just over the headland the beach is mostly nude. But this day the wind was too strong, so he pointed us to the shell beach in the south-east. At first my reporters were the only 2 there, but later they were joined by 3 more couples who all went nude.
Late in the afternoon, there was a Swedish football team who walked all around the island and when they came to the nudist beach they first were uncomfortably laughing. But then one of them took of his clothes and started pointing and laughing at the other ones.
When one of my Barefoot reporters pointed at this brave nude guy and gave him thumbs up, then all other 10 quickly followed his example. So they ended up 100% nude at this beautiful beach.
Tertsa
This is west of Myrtos on the south east cost, an excellent place to stay, reach by cycle on a rough coast road, in part metalled. Cycles can be hired in Mytos. The 3 miles takes 40 minutes. The village of Tertsa has tavernas, a laid back population which is tolerant of nude swimming and sunbathing. At least 90% of users were nude and the setting is very pretty. The beach to use is 400 yards west of the taverna between rocky outcrops.
Barefooters who visited in June and September 2005 described these as very relaxed beaches just west of Tertsa. Drive over the steep track over the rocks (see picture). Then you get to a beach dived in 2 parts by some rocks. The Beach at Tertsaclosest was textile. The more western part was nude. Also when walking further around the next rocks you get to a 800 metre-long beach which was completely empty. Great for nude walking!
Only downside: the man sitting there all day watching the nudes, sometimes even with binoculars. That was their June visit. They returned in September and shared the beach with a nice German couple. The same man was again there. This time he started taking pictures of the naturists and so one of my reporters walked over to him and took photos of him too. The Captain has been provided with one of these photos. I have not published it but might think again if I receive similar reports …
A report from September 2006 describes it as a wonderful beach just after the village, where nearly everybody is naked. The water is clean, and the beach is only sand. No facilities.
East of Ierapetra
From Ierapetra, take the coastal road heading east. It passes a longish stretch of unremarkable textile beach before climbing and veering a hundred metres or so inland. The space between the road and the low coastal cliffs becomes nondescript scrubby waste ground pull off onto one of the dirt tracks. (There was a Nissan roadside billboard my contributor used as a landmark on repeat visits.) Park near the cliff edge and peer down to get your bearings. It's really one long beach, punctuated by cliff-falls to form little bays. If you don't like what you see, drive a couple of hundred metres further and try again. A couple of naturists
were already down there at the spot my contributors fancied, so the area obviously has a small reputation. Another day, textiles were at the same spot - so my contributors just hopped along to the next bay. Word reaches me that some concrete steps have been built for ease of access. Before that you had to scramble down the sandstone cliffs to the beach, which is medium-brown sand, pebbles, larger rocks and boulders. Quite clean, too, unlike the clifftop area! No amenities of course, so bring your own refreshments. The cliff face and rock outcrops are riddled with caves and niches, where the kids had a whale of a time exploring and playing hide-and-seek. It's a shallow beach, and hence quite safe for non-swimmers and younger children. Acess to the water can be a bit difficult because of submerged rocks. The enclosedness makes it easy to keep kids within range. The beach was observed by local men standing at the top of the cliff a couple of times, but there was never any hassle. Not an absolutely perfect area, but plenty good enough.
Ferma
A report reaches me of a small village about 10km east of Ierepetra with a few apatrtmenst and a small beach. My correspondent, who visited in September 2000, says there were a maximum of 5 couples on the beach. Evidently my contributors are a "mixed" couple, where the man likes to go nude but the woman doesn't (how often does that happen?), and they found this a good, quiet beach to enjoy.
